There's plenty of room to test them where they are disconnected now. It just that the wires don't match up to what you have posted. So I'm just not sure they are the correct ones.

 

Disconnect the 2 connectors, 5 and 7 pin, from behind the lower dash cover.
The procedure is for 97 gsr. Should be right. There may not actually be 5 and 7 wires at those connectors, but that is the amount of slots they have

 

Both of these connectors have all the wires. 7 pin has 7 wires and 5 pin has 5 wires. It's just the colors don't match the ones you stated. My car is a 97 gsr.

 

It's possible that the wires of the connectors you've disconnected are spliced in the harness between where you've disconnected them and the connectors under the dash. Which would make sense, since the connector view that I have only shows 3 wires at the 5 pin connector.
The procedure I have is for the connectors under the dash, behind the cover. Disconnect them there

 

Then I think you are referring to the ignition switch harness. I will take pics of it and show you tomorrow. This is not plugged into the ignition switch.

 

The plugs you have in the pix are the combination light switch plugs, they are not the ign. switch harness plugs.

The ign. switch plugs are not at the ign. switch, they are at and next to the under dash fuse box, looks like this... http://www.canadapartsonline.com/pop...B3YXJyYW50eS4= 94

 

Correct those are the wires I was going to take a picture of. In that case I found the right one's the first time. Thanks for confirming.

 

Is the MFR clicking when you turn to the on position? There should be two distinct clicks one turning on the pump to prime and the other shutting off waiting to start. If not then you might want to try the other MFR.

 

Main relay? I have tried both if you didn't read.

 

So I tested my ignition switch harness

5 pin white/black key on position II 5.38
7 pin white on position II 5.38
5 pin yellow key on position II 5.36
5 pin black/yellow key on position II 5.36

 

What are those numbers readings of? You should be testing for continuity (ohms)
Should be testing between 2 Pins at a time

 

They are ohms. "Omega sign" How would you test two wires at once? Black pin for ground and red pin on targeted wire.

 

Just place one lead on one pin, and the other lead on the other pin. But touch the leads together first. You should get a reading of zero ohms (continuity). This ensures that the meter is working as it should. Make sure not to touch the metal portion of the leads with your fingers

 

Ok that makes sense now. I tested the leads the other day by touching them together and got a reading of 0. Thanks for clarifying.

 

Coo. Just make sure you test just as I'd described in the previous page. Youre going to need to test for continuity between 4 pins when the key is in the II position. That is, test for continuity of all possible combinations between those 4 pins. Each combination should read 0 ohms. If they don't, switch is pooched

 

So I tested again according to you described at I get a reading of 0.03 or so Ohms for every combination possible. I also touched both my pins together and they read 0.02 ohms by just touching them together. Is it suppose to be a flat 0.00 reading?

 

It is not unusual that when testing your continuity setting on your meter, [touching the probes together] to get more then a 0.00 reading, unless your meter has a "zeroing button" or is self zeroing, if the probes are "plugged" into the meter try twisting them in their "sockets", oxidation at the connection will add resistance.

Anyway I would not use a meter to test the ign. switch, it has no load, and most connection problems are load "sensitive".
Just because you get a reading of full continuity through a switch using a multimeter, especially a digital, it does not mean the switch is good, it only means you have a connection, not how good the connection is, it may be good enough to carry a .200A load but not a 1A load and definatly not a 10A load.

A simple 12V test light, [not LED type as it has very little load] is a more effective tool, the light bulb itself has a load and when using the test light you leave the switch plugged in so you test the switch under load.

Find a good ground point for your test lights ground clip, stick test light probe into the back of the plug so it makes contact with the terminal in the plug... [I'm using a 97 GS-R because i seen that back a few posts or so]

1- White, [power] hot at all times, a slight dimming of the test light is OK when ign. key is in start position, [starter running] should be just as bright or brighter onec car starts.
2- Black/yellow, [ignition] hot in run and start, a slight dimming is OK when starting, should be just as bright or brighter once car starts.
3- Yellow, [accessory] hot in acc. and run, should be just as bright or brighter once car starts
4- Black/white, [starter], hot in start only.

The test light should light up and stay bright when ign. key is in appropriate position(s) with a slight dimming during cranking to start on the white and black/yellow being OK, but should be just as bright or brighter once car starts.

Any dimming of the test light, [other then when starting] indicates a problem with the ign. switch.94

 

True. Testing resistance is not an effective means in solving for a poor contact/connection. It's really only effective in detecting an open circuit.
Testing voltage Tests the circuit in action. It is a better method. Definitely try that

 

I tried it with a test light as well. If I remember right none of the wires made the light come on. I'm using a 6-12V test light.

 

Well, assuming the battery voltage was still high enough to power the light, and the test was performed correctly (I'm sure it was. It's not a difficult test), and you did supply a good ground, id say you have a bad ignition switch.
Good thing fcm chimed in, becAuse my test would have passed and had you chasing your tail lol

 

Does the test light work?
Did you have the batt. connected?
Was the ign. switch harness plugged in?
Are you sure the probe touched the terminal in the plug?

Silly questions maybe, but if it is yes to all the above you have a blown main fuse, even if the ign. switch was bad, [real bad] you would still have power on the white lead, input power for the ign. switch, fused by main fuse.

I quess it is possible there is a connection, [wiring] problem between the main fuse and the ign. switch harness plug, but then again you would get nothing when turning ign. switch on, [no CEL solid or not]. 94

 

Oh yea. Supply voltage. Duh.
K I'm staying outta this now. Promise

 

Test light works fine, according to El the harness had to be unplugged to test with a digital reader so I tested it unplugged with the test light as well. And yes the probe touched the terminal in the plug; ground was good as well.

So I'm assuming the ignition switch has to be plugged in to test with a test light?

 

yes, have the harness plugged in to test with the test light.
Unplug and isolate the circuit to test continuity/resistance...

 

As mentioned, yes. 94