Finshed cleaning my rear suspension came up to the top found all this , what to do.. Sandblast?

 

all those components can be replaced at a cost, no car I've had has had that much rust but if you wanted you could just take a good wire brush to tem with a heavy duty 1/2'' drill. wear goggles and a mask if you do try that or simply sell it and find a nice stock auto then auto to manual it.

 

Im debating so hard right now , thinking of sandblasting , the underneath of te exhaust pipe but you're right.. Can be replaced, buy auto to manual will be more trouble ehh what kind brush would be good to use?

 

just a 3.5'' steel wire brush that goes into a drill. idk where you live but rust free integras are extremely rare here in Toronto...and usually fetch anywhere from $4-5K.

 

Shift linkage and exhaust can be replaced, everything else can be wire wheeled and sealed with rust prevention.

 

Thinking of slowly replacing everything restoring it back up is por-15 good on bare metal?

 

Alright how will i treated the bare metal once its rust free?

 

get it powered coated then POR-15 or similar.

 

You recommend any catalytic converter for ls and exhaust ? Gonna replace them soon

 

just get a $80 magna-flow HFC works just fine.

 

Hey would it be a good idea to use naval jelly on some of the surfaace rust ? Or is that stuff crap?

 

Is it hard to remove the full shift linkage ? I think i'm attempt to remove it tomorrow

 

R.i.P integra

 

 

Linkage comes off some what easy, your going to have to remove part of the exhaust to get to the bolts though. Once thats out of the way theres 2, 12mm bolts holding the rear up and then at the front one 14mm for the stabilizer. Theres also a compression pin that needs to be knocked out. Depending on how much rust is under there you may have a hard time with that, find a punch thats the same size and just smack it out with a hammer.

 

To reinstall can i usecthe same pin ? And the rust around it do you recommend rust converter or brushing/sanding?

 

The pin is reusable if its in decent shape when you get it out. If your replacing the linkage you dont have to worry about the rust on it. If you mean the other parts on the car, do like suggested and wire wheel as much as you can and coat it after. For the stuff you can't get to use the converter and seal it.

 

Well i checked under car ? Mostly all replacable parts and rust on car is surface and very removable thanks guys , also need suggestion for a good cat converter , saw that magnaflow ones dont have a hole for o2 sensor so any good cat that wont trigger my check engine light? And kaycee what rust converter and seal would you recommend ?

 

OBD1 or 2? if 1 don't worry if 2 just weld a bung in right after it and you'll be ok.


or if emission isn't a thing where you are use a de-fouler.

 

So i weld a little hole and put it in? Its obd2 wont trigger a cel?

 

it needs to be a specific size for the o2 and yup should be fine.

 

Mine was pretty bad underneath too; just replace the pieces, fix the rust on the body and spray the rubber under coat underneath the car (the stuff they use on the newer cars).

 

Really do you have a thread ?

 

I can't really suggest a sealer for you, I never had a need to look into any. Im sure you can find suggestions though google, or b-swapped might have a suggestion about what to use. But stuff from eastwood usually works pretty well so you might want to take a look on there also.

As for the cat, I would check under the heat shields and see how bad it is first before deciding to replace it. It looks like someones already been down there doing something to it, due to those hose clamps holding the shields together.

 

Despite living up north(Canada) I have never had to use a sealer, we got our cars rust proofed at the dealer or just an independent shop. had to be yearly tho with the amount of salt that hit the roads here.