Engine mount relocation??
Acually there is a point of putting a fully built d- series in a integra. Believe it or not. A turbo fully built dseries will spank a fully built turbo bseries. Less rotation. Less weight to hull. And there was a awd dseries tranny in the ef waggons. So in other words d-series are faster built. Bseries are only good from.the factory.
Acually there is a point of putting a fully built d- series in a integra. Believe it or not. A turbo fully built dseries will spank a fully built turbo bseries. Less rotation. Less weight to hull. And there was a awd dseries tranny in the ef waggons. So in other words d-series are faster built. Bseries are only good from.the factory.
Acually there is a point of putting a fully built d- series in a integra. Believe it or not. A turbo fully built dseries will spank a fully built turbo bseries. Less rotation. Less weight to hull. And there was a awd dseries tranny in the ef waggons. So in other words d-series are faster built. Bseries are only good from.the factory.
shut the **** up
It should be easier to modify your existing mounts. This will prob not give you a 4 inch raise but I guess some raise would help. Making a spacer for the rear "t" mount and taking some material off of the bottom of the driver side mount. The hardest thing would be the trans mount. But if you have access to a machine shop it will help. I am thinking chopping off the whole bottom area of the trans mount along with some material then fabricating a plate with the same mount holes trans to mount. Then welding it back on there. You might be able to get 1/2 or maybe even a 1" lift out of that. Combining that with a custom sump oil pan that should put you in the clear. I personally dont agree with this but your car and your money. Would be cool to see the Fabrication work in making these one off mounts.
This crossed my mind, a great idea but only thing is the guys who want to be slammed don't know what a dry sump set up is at all. And more then likely can't do the set up them self's along the exhaust would still be an issue, but in theory but to that I'd say get a side exit header like a drag car lol.
You can weld 4" tall steel plates to the current engine mount places(obviously 2 plates on each mount)
How ever up high the holes on the plates are, will determine how much it is raised
2 plates would be sketchy.
I would also well supporting plates on the 2 plates.
2 plates going from the top of the 2plates that are for the engine, going to the body.
Then another 2 plates holding it in
So 2 plates holding the engine, and 2-4 supporting plates for each of the engine plates.
As for the T bracket, leave it bolted to the block as is, then run 2 more plates from the bracket to the mount on the crossmember, then just put the bolts through the plates.
Vibration mounts will have to be removed
All this is being pictured perfect in my head lol
Hope you understand.
Also I am not sure of the strength this will have, idk if the plates will hold up.
But with a good welder and skills, that can be done.
How ever up high the holes on the plates are, will determine how much it is raised
2 plates would be sketchy.
I would also well supporting plates on the 2 plates.
2 plates going from the top of the 2plates that are for the engine, going to the body.
Then another 2 plates holding it in
So 2 plates holding the engine, and 2-4 supporting plates for each of the engine plates.
As for the T bracket, leave it bolted to the block as is, then run 2 more plates from the bracket to the mount on the crossmember, then just put the bolts through the plates.
Vibration mounts will have to be removed
All this is being pictured perfect in my head lol
Hope you understand.
Also I am not sure of the strength this will have, idk if the plates will hold up.
But with a good welder and skills, that can be done.
Originally designed for race cars, have them about 3 more inches to lower their engine to lower the center of gravity of the car for handling.
But you can use this system for 3" oil pan clearance from the ground.
Will be pricey though
ebay "coilover sleeves" all around. oem s2k shocks in the rear. the back rides beautiful but I'm gonna put koni yellows with extended tophats on the front soon... I aready cut the shock tower. got another set of front LCA's with poly bushings... just waiting for the front shocks really
ebay sleeves and cut towers why ! my tack car sits maybe 3/4'' higher and I didn't need to do that doesn't hit at all. Why not a 15x9 rim on there with stretched tires ?
15x9 is my goal. idk what u want me to tell you, my upper ball joint was hitting the shock tower so I had to cut it yo
Edit: of course you would cut holes in your strut towers

Edit 2: let's be real here, you're not gonna do anything except sell the car for some ridiculous amount after you realize how bad you've already fucked it up, and still claim it's a clean car and runs great.
Physics isn't going to like this. If you raise the engine a few inches in the front end (regardless of your reasoning) you're moving the center of gravity for the front end of the car upward. This has all kinds of adverse handling and tirewear implications, but that's a story for another day
The other issue you may have is that the axles may not articulate enough to reach the new engine position; moreover, if you move the engine upward, you may need longer axles to reach the hubs or risk separating the CV joints.
I dont get this whole "stanced" bullshit...i like to drive my car without the oil pan eating up every bump. Raise your car to a normal height and you wont have to worry about this. Also, dont bother with a dry sump system...a retrofitted system will cost you as much as that Teg did
Just stop...
Thanks for your comment, but it was neither helpful nor accurate.
The other issue you may have is that the axles may not articulate enough to reach the new engine position; moreover, if you move the engine upward, you may need longer axles to reach the hubs or risk separating the CV joints.
Acually there is a point of putting a fully built d- series in a integra. Believe it or not. A turbo fully built dseries will spank a fully built turbo bseries. Less rotation. Less weight to hull. And there was a awd dseries tranny in the ef waggons. So in other words d-series are faster built. Bseries are only good from.the factory.

Thanks for your comment, but it was neither helpful nor accurate.
Physics isn't going to like this. If you raise the engine a few inches in the front end (regardless of your reasoning) you're moving the center of gravity for the front end of the car upward. This has all kinds of adverse handling and tirewear implications, but that's a story for another day
The other issue you may have is that the axles may not articulate enough to reach the new engine position; moreover, if you move the engine upward, you may need longer axles to reach the hubs or risk separating the CV joints.
I dont get this whole "stanced" bullshit...i like to drive my car without the oil pan eating up every bump. Raise your car to a normal height and you wont have to worry about this. Also, dont bother with a dry sump system...a retrofitted system will cost you as much as that Teg did
Just stop...
Thanks for your comment, but it was neither helpful nor accurate.
The other issue you may have is that the axles may not articulate enough to reach the new engine position; moreover, if you move the engine upward, you may need longer axles to reach the hubs or risk separating the CV joints.
I dont get this whole "stanced" bullshit...i like to drive my car without the oil pan eating up every bump. Raise your car to a normal height and you wont have to worry about this. Also, dont bother with a dry sump system...a retrofitted system will cost you as much as that Teg did
Just stop...

Thanks for your comment, but it was neither helpful nor accurate.





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at steels with hub caps, if you do figure out how to raise the engine it'll more then likely be a hack job. fail to see how you'd raise the trans mount....
