http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...79890

What are your opinions?

I think they look pretty solid and the price is definitely a plus.

 

Function7's products have a reputation for being of very good quality, but as you can see their prices are also very high. Aluminum control arms can be had from other places for $75-150 or so, from places like SPC, SRR, and Megan Racing (the cheapest one I've seen).

As for these particular arms, I think a better alternative is Function7's regular Integra arms; they're usually $199, plus they also weigh less, and don't require Type-R-specific shocks.

 

Perhaps he wants to run ITR-specific suspension, and wants aftermarket controls arms, as well.

 

Thank you for your kind words.

Our regular Integra (not ITR) arms are almost 0.5lbs lighter on each side, and are slightly more rigid due to the nature of the open design of the Type-R arm. Despite the reduced weight, you should not "feel anything" different after putting our arms on. We even corrected for the lower unsprung weight by moving the sway bar holes farther outboard than stock. This allows you to be in full control of your vehicle, and minimize the amount of time you need to get used to new components that perform differently.

Every product that we manufacture is made here in the USA, out of 100% American components and materials. Although it cost us more, the 7075-grade aluminum is batch-certified and every arm is tracked at every part of our manufacturing process to ensure consistent quality. Finally, the arms are individually serialized so they remain traceable, even after the product has been delivered to the customer.

As a manufacturer, we welcome all sorts of feedback from customers and enthusiasts alike. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or suggestions about our product line.

Thanks!

-A

 

For someone who doesn't already have a Type R, is there any advantage to using the ITR arms instead of the regular Integra ones? It doesn't sound like it so far.

Also, are there any plans to make replacement front lower control arms? That seems like a good place to drop a lot of weight, considering how heavy the stock ones are.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, are there any plans to make replacement front lower control arms? That seems like a good place to drop a lot of weight, considering how heavy the stock ones are.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd like to know as-well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Function7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We even corrected for the lower unsprung weight by moving the sway bar holes farther outboard than stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This doesn't sound very good to me, considering the design of the OEM swaybar endlinks. To make the endlinks bolt to holes that have been moved further outward, either the swaybar has to be longer, or the endlinks would have to rotate outward. However the OE endlinks don't allow for rotation at the point where it connect to the end of the swaybar. Seems to me like that would bind up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For someone who doesn't already have a Type R, is there any advantage to using the ITR arms instead of the regular Integra ones? It doesn't sound like it so far.

Also, are there any plans to make replacement front lower control arms? That seems like a good place to drop a lot of weight, considering how heavy the stock ones are.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Certain suspension systems are only available for ITR's, using the eyelet-type rear damper (the bushing is on the shock itself instead of on the LCA). So obviously you would need ITR LCA's if you wanted to use these systems.

I would think that aluminum front control arms would be VERY expensive due to their complex 2-piece A-arm-type design, which is what prevents most of the fore-aft movement of the control arm (and keeps wheel hop to a minimum; as we all know, the addition of traction bars prevents ALL fore-aft movement and eliminates wheel hop completely).

 

Sway bar mounting holes:
We offer optional sway bar linkages (heim ball-joint type linkages, pictured below) that mount offset to accomodate the factory sway bars, so no binding occurs.


Moving the mount holes outward make the sway bar work like a thicker sway bar, effectively stiffening the rear to accomodate the lower unsprung weight. The linkages also work better than the stamped linkages+rubber bushings found on most stock Integras (including the Type-R) Please check our website (http://www.function-7.com) for more details.


Front Control Arms:
We are in the final stages of testing of our front arms. We expect to release them for retail in mid to late Fall this year.

..and PatrickGSR94's right in that they will be significantly more expensive since it will also have to bear the force of the engine pushing the car forward (in addition to all the forces that Patrick pointed out), and to keep it affordable we will be offering them in a "staged" upgrade path.

More information will be released together with our public release of the front arms.



-A




Modified by Function7 at 7:19 AM 7/29/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Certain suspension systems are only available for ITR's, using the eyelet-type rear damper (the bushing is on the shock itself instead of on the LCA). So obviously you would need ITR LCA's if you wanted to use these systems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But is there any advantage to this configuration (having the eyelet-type rear damper) at all, or is it only so you can use coilovers which simply don't come any other way (like some of the higher-end Tein systems)?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would think that aluminum front control arms would be VERY expensive due to their complex 2-piece A-arm-type design, which is what prevents most of the fore-aft movement of the control arm (and keeps wheel hop to a minimum; as we all know, the addition of traction bars prevents ALL fore-aft movement and eliminates wheel hop completely).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there actually any reason for them to be a 2-piece design? It looks to me like Honda did that just for easier manufacturing; it shouldn't be that hard to machine them out of one big piece of aluminum. I've seen some aluminum A-arms for trucks which are a lot bigger than these. I imagine these front arms would be more expensive simply due to their greater size, which would probably require a lot more machining.

 

[QUOTE=dwolsten]Function7's products have a reputation for being of very good quality, but as you can see their prices are also very high. Aluminum control arms can be had from other places for $75-150 or so, from places like SPC, SRR, and Megan Racing (the cheapest one I've seen).
[QUOTE]

Slightly off topic, but does anyone know anything about the quality of Megan products. I've heard people mention them repeatedly but i always blew them off as a cheap (read poor quality) knock off company.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Function7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sway bar mounting holes:
We offer optional sway bar linkages (heim ball-joint type linkages, pictured below) that mount offset to accomodate the factory sway bars, so no binding occurs.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

The factory endlinks fit around the bushing, which fits into the swaybar itself. How would those endlinks fit on the OEM swaybars?

 

I am considering a set of these for my non-ITR teg. Would the offset holes work with the Comptech sway/tie bar combo? They already have the ball-joint linkages.
Also, is there a honda-tech group buy or some kind of discount offer available? I am sure quite a few members would be interested in a quality product like this.

Just noticed you're in AZ. Can I stop by so I can skip the shipping?


Modified by Boofster at 12:46 PM 7/29/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Function7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Front Control Arms:
We are in the final stages of testing of our front arms. We expect to release them for retail in mid to late Fall this year.

..and PatrickGSR94's right in that they will be significantly more expensive since it will also have to bear the force of the engine pushing the car forward (in addition to all the forces that Patrick pointed out), and to keep it affordable we will be offering them in a "staged" upgrade path.

More information will be released together with our public release of the front arms.



-A </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patrickgsr94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...I would think that aluminum front control arms would be VERY expensive due to their complex 2-piece A-arm-type design, which is what prevents most of the fore-aft movement of the control arm (and keeps wheel hop to a minimum; as we all know, the addition of traction bars prevents ALL fore-aft movement and eliminates wheel hop completely). </TD></TR></TABLE>


If they're going to be so expencive... how are they going to compete with the not-so-expencive tractionbars, and new polyurethane bushings?? are there going to be any other gains?

 

i know competition enginering makes lcas for honda/acura they claim to be for offroad us only but are made out of chromemoly and are stronger than stock also they are 24 ounds lighter than the stock ones i think that both side i think 24 ounds off of both sides, i would like to know the weight differences between the stock and the function7 lcas when they are done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by someday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know competition enginering makes lcas for honda/acura they claim to be for offroad us only but are made out of chromemoly and are stronger than stock also they are 24 ounds lighter than the stock ones i think that both side i think 24 ounds off of both sides, i would like to know the weight differences between the stock and the function7 lcas when they are done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no idea what unit of measure you're using here, so I'll go ahead an clarify everything.

My stock cast iron DA Integra rear LCAs with $25 worth of Energy Suspension bushings weigh in at a whopping (get ready)... <FONT SIZE="3">3 lbs. each</FONT>. Stop the presses, cause this has been determined as being heavy...

You might save an additional pound with an aluminum piece (on a good day), and who knows how long it will last. So far, there are absolutely zero 12 year old aftermarket aluminum arms on the road, so only time and abuse will determine their quality.

So I guess it boils down to how much effort you want to put into your car. Sure, you can order $125+ LCAs for simplicities sake, or you can install $30 worth of plastic bushings with only marginally more effort.

Stop acting like the stock LCAs are cast in lead; they aren't terribly heavy and they have been track, weather and street proven for more than 15 years...

Save your money and buy some new bushings.

 

I have Nar Spec LCAs on my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no idea what unit of measure you're using here, so I'll go ahead an clarify everything.

My stock cast iron DA Integra rear LCAs with $25 worth of Energy Suspension bushings weigh in at a whopping (get ready)... <FONT SIZE="3">3 lbs. each</FONT>. Stop the presses, cause this has been determined as being heavy...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're not missing the unit of measure; you're totally missing what is being measured. We're talking about the front LCAs, not the rear. The front ones really are heavy, much more so than the rears.

Another thing I'd like to see is a lightweight replacement for the rear trailing arms. Aluminum probably isn't that feasible since these arms are so large, but perhaps chromoly tubing?

 

Yes, that would make sense then. EGs and DCs have drastically different front LCAs than EFs and DAs. I was unclear as to what our homesnake was talking about.

Trailing arms would be nice, but a beefy forged aluminum or tube steel piece is all I can think of that could handle the stress. And that sure wouldn't be cheap, either...

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have no idea what unit of measure you're using here, so I'll go ahead an clarify everything.

My stock cast iron DA Integra rear LCAs with $25 worth of Energy Suspension bushings weigh in at a whopping (get ready)... <FONT SIZE="3">3 lbs. each</FONT>. Stop the presses, cause this has been determined as being heavy...

You might save an additional pound with an aluminum piece (on a good day), and who knows how long it will last. So far, there are absolutely zero 12 year old aftermarket aluminum arms on the road, so only time and abuse will determine their quality.

So I guess it boils down to how much effort you want to put into your car. Sure, you can order $125+ LCAs for simplicities sake, or you can install $30 worth of plastic bushings with only marginally more effort.

Stop acting like the stock LCAs are cast in lead; they aren't terribly heavy and they have been track, weather and street proven for more than 15 years...

Save your money and buy some new bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>i was refering to the front lcas, they comp enginering says 24 pounds a front lca they also make chrommoly tirod ends which they claim to save an additional 6 pouns a peice, the sterring would be quick on that thing along with less understeer, i have a freind that had somecompany make him a spindle out of i think aluminum or chromemoly i cant remember but they made it for an h22 hub to fit in it to handle the extra power he was making, this was on a 93 hatch h22 swap fully built making 600+ to the wheels on race gas but i remember that they were really light ill have to ask him for the name of the company but back on topic yes i was talking about the front lcas sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But is there any advantage to this configuration (having the eyelet-type rear damper) at all, or is it only so you can use coilovers which simply don't come any other way (like some of the higher-end Tein systems)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is NO ADVANTAGE whatsoever. We make the arms due to a demand for them, by enthusiasts who want to install JDM-type rear shocks like Teins.

Our recommendation is to save the $75 and go for our regular/lighter/stronger "normal" Integra arms IF you can find the rear struts that you like.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is there actually any reason for them to be a 2-piece design? It looks to me like Honda did that just for easier manufacturing; it shouldn't be that hard to machine them out of one big piece of aluminum. I've seen some aluminum A-arms for trucks which are a lot bigger than these. I imagine these front arms would be more expensive simply due to their greater size, which would probably require a lot more machining.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A one-piece design would be cost-prohibitive for a full CNC'd piece made out of wrought aluminum (as opposed to the weaker cast aluminum). You would have to start with a much larger piece of aluminum and take out whatever that is "not the control arm".

Current aluminum components found on Porsches, the NSX, the new DC-5R, some GM SUV's are made of low pressure cast/hot forged aluminum. The cast arms are brittle by nature and hence over-engineeried.

Anyway, starting out with a larger piece of aluminum is not a problem. The problem after that is marketability. I doubt anyone would pay $800 for a pair of "one-piece" CNC'ed front control arms.

-A

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boofster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am considering a set of these for my non-ITR teg. Would the offset holes work with the Comptech sway/tie bar combo? They already have the ball-joint linkages.
Also, is there a honda-tech group buy or some kind of discount offer available? I am sure quite a few members would be interested in a quality product like this.

Just noticed you're in AZ. Can I stop by so I can skip the shipping?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The combination of the offset holes and ball joint linkages (even the comp-tech linkages) allow the arms to work with almost any sway-bar combination.

Unfortunately our liability insurance clauses do not allow for walk-in customers at our location. However, we are working with a few local shops and you will be able to purchase them directly, and save on shipping.

-A

 

So how do the heim-joint endlinks attach to a stock swaybar which have bushings in the ends of the swaybar?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how do the heim-joint endlinks attach to a stock swaybar which have bushings in the ends of the swaybar?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The heim linkages attach through the stock swaybar bushings.

Thanks

-A

 

I have a set on my GSR. I don't know of any performance improvement, but they look cool. I got them because I needed to replace my stock LCA bushings and bearings. Frozen shock bolts on the LCAs are a very common problem on Hondas. Rather than pay for new bearings, bushings, and labor to have the old ones burned out and new ones pressed in, I just bought these. I paid a little more, but I thought it was worth the time savings.

As far as other brands, the F7s are more expensive, but are made here instead of Taiwan, like the D2, Sage, SRR and Megan stuff. Modacar told me the D2s are also very stiff and noisy and didn't reccommend them for street use. Also, be careful, some of the cheap Ebay ones don't have the bushings installed. Finally, the SPC arms are not stock length, so your rear track will become narrower.

The guy at Function7, (I think his name is Chen) is VERY friendly, and from what I've read online, also very knowlegeable.

Hope this helps