Differential Preload with tapered bearings
I am currently trying to install a type r lsd (tapered bearings) with 4.7 final drive, ls gearset, into a new b18c bellhousing and case.
I'm having trouble with finding the preload. I'm pretty sure Honda didn't use the preload shims for this but when I just tapped the outer bearing race into the bellhousing a random distance and then fully torqued down the case, I threw in an axle to get a feel for how much force i needed and it felt about right 2.5lbs, maybe more.
So my question is how do I actually set the preload?
I know of the feeler gauge method but what exactly should I be looking for with that and what shim would I need for whatever distance, the exact mm, +- .001mm?
I tried to do this once before as the previous owner didn't set it which broke the open diff's bearing neck and not knowing any better, and also finding a loose bolt in the trans, I wasn't aware of this preload especially since all the videos I watched never mentioned it so this is my second go round and I don't wanna drop more money for another diff.
I'm also just considering taking it to a shop and eating a smaller fee so I don't mess up again.
I'm having trouble with finding the preload. I'm pretty sure Honda didn't use the preload shims for this but when I just tapped the outer bearing race into the bellhousing a random distance and then fully torqued down the case, I threw in an axle to get a feel for how much force i needed and it felt about right 2.5lbs, maybe more.
So my question is how do I actually set the preload?
I know of the feeler gauge method but what exactly should I be looking for with that and what shim would I need for whatever distance, the exact mm, +- .001mm?
I tried to do this once before as the previous owner didn't set it which broke the open diff's bearing neck and not knowing any better, and also finding a loose bolt in the trans, I wasn't aware of this preload especially since all the videos I watched never mentioned it so this is my second go round and I don't wanna drop more money for another diff.
I'm also just considering taking it to a shop and eating a smaller fee so I don't mess up again.
The installation height is machined differently - the tapered bearing installation uses not only the snap ring style shims, but there is also a very thick washer (the hole in the middle is just slightly larger than the axle input spline) next to the shim. Then the race is tapped into place. If you try to use the wrong parts for any case, you can create massive damage to the case. Does your case still have a VIN plate on it ? If so, you can run the VIN on an Acura parts website and see what type of bearings are used in that case so that you make sure you are doing it right. The tapered bearing/race set up is not clearanced the same way as the 1-piece roller bearings, the former is set by preload (requires a very special torque wrench that reads BOTH directions) in INCH POUNDS, while the latter is checked by feeler gauge for free-play.
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