the heater blowing out cool air as it starts to overheat is typical of boiling the water (unless you have no heat at any point, then that would be typical of a gigantic air pocket in the system), the steam rises to a higher point in the cooling system, try what i said, fill it with 50/50, see how it goes, also, reduce the tstat temp to 170, although its not vital at the moment if you lowered the temp that the fans kick on manually.

 

also, one other thing you can try is getting a pressure tester to rent from your local autozone, and pressurize the system to 14psi and see if the pressure stays steady or drops. If the system cannot hold pressure then that would indicate a leak, and could cause a problem. Part of the reason the radiator cap making a tight seal is very important.

 

wait you deleted the iacv? or the fast idle thermo valve FITV

 

back to square one! when does the car over heat? sitting in your driveway with the hood popped or driving, or when u get into boost? pix of the setup would be nice.

 

yeh, trying to wrap my head around this, he shouldnt be forming steam inside the cooling system if its under pressure really though...not unless he wasnt holding proper system pressure, which would need to be tested with a pressure tester.....run down the specs again.

 

just talked to a friend and he said to make sure your whole radiator is getting hot, so that you dont have dead zones, but my brain is fried for the night trying to think of what could be the problem. tunernoob is basically correct about the boiling situation, which would mean if it was boiling the water, something else would have to be wrong the pressure should keep it from turning to steam.

 

to follow up on this, because i actually got the calculation for it, at approximately 2bar, which is about the pressure inside the cooling system, the boiling point of water is about 248 degrees F, just wanted to throw that out there. 2am is kinda late to be thinking about this but right off the bat it should have clicked because i know that somewhere around like 9000psi water actually turns into a solid regardless of temp.

 

Iacv is what I deleted but it got hot before that, doesn't get hot at idle gets hot when I start driving. The heater works when it's not overheating. I just changed the headgasket which was leaking in the 2 and 3 cyclinders. Before I change the gasket it would only get hot when I got into boost and cool back off rapidly, but know after I changed the head gasket it gets hot normally driving it and doesn't cool back down like before.

 

Iacv is the piece on the bottom of the tb right? That's what I took off cause it had the bounching idle and just ran a water line straight from the block back to the head.

 

To get the air out of the system, you let the engine run with the rad cap OFF. You will see it start to bubble.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=421

 

do you have a wideband? check to insure you aren't leaning out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

with the car cool, jack the car up as high as you can get it in the very front. remove rad cap, and start car and run for a while, at LEAST 5 minutes after your thermostat opens up and coolant begins to flow.

PREFERABLY USE THIS IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON ONE:

http://www.handsontools.com/Lisle-24...it_p_5079.html

you can make one out of half of a coke bottle and some ingenuity as well.
if you use the funnel, fill it halfway up with coolant/water/7up/watev your usin to cool the beast down

this will bleed the air out of your coolant system (air ALWAYS travels to the highest point in the system. if you have air in the system you may be air locked, which won't allow optimal (or in some cases ANY) flow.

also, check to see if your heater core is plugged. pull heater core hoses off and stick a water hose in the inlet tube full blast to clear it out.

if these don't work, then god hates you

good luck man, i know exactly how irritating cooling problems are

 

Yeah I got a wideband afrs are good, thanks for the help. I'm about ready to go out and work on it now hopefully it will work.

 

Well I changed the thermostat put anti-freeze in it and let it run with the cap off till the thermostat opened and it still gets hot. When it was running it would spit the coolant out of the cap opening, also the bottom rad hose still isn't getting hot, it will warm and the top will burn my hand idk WTF is going on with this car.

 

the only thing i can think of is the cooling system is just TOO small for what you have going on, is there a block guard or anything around the sleeves to prevent coolant flow? The only other thing i can tell you is upgrade to a double core radiator and get some bigger cooling fans.

the coolant is gona come out of the radiator with the cap off if you let it get too hot, your only supposed to warm it up, and then let it cool, then once the air bubbles escape, put the cap back on. Personally i would get a pressure tester, make sure the system holds 14psi at least, and you said you replaced the water pump, was it a re-manufactured water pump? Is it possible the water pump is bad and isnt spinning fast enough?

 

Yeah it was a reman water pump, the car didn't use to get hot just started about a month after I got it.

 

Also there isn't a block guard.

 

was the car turbo'ed when you got it? If it was, i would go out of my way to say that the water pump you replaced probably is faulty....my suggestion would be to buy a NEW waterpump directly from honda. If you can afford it. Thats the ONLY thing i can imagine causing it to overheat at this point after all of this. The waterpump either isnt spinning at all or isnt spinning fast enough, i would assume thats why the top hose is getting EXTREMELY hot, not nearly enough flow throughout the system.

 

Yes it was turbo'ed when I got it, and ever since I put the new waterpump on it has had a whine to it.

 

god block guards are retarded. thanks for not using one :D

 

sounds like a hairline crack in a sleeve! if its spiting coolant out idling

 

The cyclinder looked good, the head may be warped though I'm taking the head back off tomorrow and having it checked out

 

Also the top radaitor hose is still getting hot and the bottom isn't.

 

I used a pressure tester on it. pumped it up to around 15.5 psi and it maybe bleed off .5 psi or less in 45 mins. Is this normal or should it not bleed off in pressure at all.

 

thats good, im tellin u i really think its the water pump

 

I got the water pump off and I'm waiting for my new one to come in tm. I pray it will work.