I have a turbo gsr only on 7psi. I've replaced head gasket, water pump, thermostat, flush radaitor and the car still gets hot. I'm stumped on what could be wrong. The top coolant hose will be very hot and have alot of pressure and the bottom will be warm with little pressure is this normal? The fan is working too it has arp headstuds so head lift shouldt be a problem. I just need help on this.

 

what temp thermostat are you using, what size fans, what size radiator? running lean? running rich? cooling system fully bled? What mix of coolant are you running?

 

Stock thermostat, Stock size alum radaitor, fan is half the size of the radaitor. Just running water right now till u get it figured out, and I didn't know where a bleeder is at on it.

 

first of all, drain it all out, and go buy 50/50 premix, your boiling off the water, thats why your overheating, you absolutely MUST have antifreeze in the cooling system if you dont want it to boil over. Second, get yourself a 170 degree thermostatic and a lower temp fan switch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=190342204695

GATES Part # 33340S Premium Thermostat; 170º Superstat (2 3/64" x 29/32" x 1 25/64" x 1 9/64") w/Jiggle Pin
170 Degree; Alternate Temperature

 

Well I have a s300 so I can lower the fan switch. It's set at 180 degrees. I'll try the thermostat and actually putting anti in it. The weird thing is it will get up to 240 degrees and never boils over. It's a brand new autometer guage in a blox in line temp sensor housing so the gauge should be accurate.

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=At+what+tempera...+water+boil%3F

 

^ cross check the guage and on your hondata to make sure the temp is right.

 

I know it boils at 212 that's why I don't understand why it's not boiling out the cap or something. Both the Hondadata digtal temp read out and the autometter are the same, so it has to be boiling out somewhere. Thanks spawne for the info I'll change the coolant and thermostat and see what happens tomorrow.

 

lol the system is pressure sealed man, nothing should be escaping, not even air. The water is turning to steam inside your cooling system and then condensing back into water when it cools down, thats why nothing disappears.

 

Ok got ya man, I kinda feel like a idiot now lol. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

 

no problem, hopefully all that solves the issue, becareful letting the car get up to 240 tho, when you start getting that hot, you run the risk of nuking a head gasket or causing physical damage to the engine itself.

 

Many race cars run with only (filtered or purified) water. In fact, some tracks won't allow cars on track if they have any anti-freeze in them, as it is very slippery.

Lack of anti-freeze is not a reason a car will overheat.

However, anti-freeze is good for helping to prevent corrosion, and that is the real reason you don't want to use plain water if you don't need to.

It only boils at 212 at atmospheric pressure. Since the coolant system is run under high pressure, the boiling point is higher.

That said, any leak preventing pressure from building in the coolant system will cause it to boil over. Also might want to verify that the radiator isn't clogged up.

 

race cars do not run purified water, they run race coolant, which is usually waterless coolant

 

yes but if he runs regular coolant with a bad radiator cap it will boil over.. and spill out.

 

thats not boil over, thats just the cooling system leaking, boil over is when the water starts to turn to steam, from what i read, that isnt the problem.

 

I flushed the radiator and it seemed to flow fine, since my coolant system has no bleeder how can I go about bleeding it of air?

 

the good ole fashioned way, let it heat up to operating temp, let it cool down, rinse and repeat. I take it you have a new water outlet from honda? It seems they removed the bleeder valves from all the new water outlets.

 

Idk I bought the car like that so that would be my guess, What do you mean by rinse?

 

lol figure of speech

 

now you just mixed me up. when you have an air bubble in the cooling system right.. you are no longer pressuring the coolant with the radiator cap. so the coolant boils over. ive seen coolant boil over into the overflow tank. never seen it disappear..

 

Professional race cars, perhaps. Amateurs run straight water, and possibly add a surfactant.

Removing coolant in favor of di water with water wetter:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/water-wetter-amount-coolant-2305380/

Another user going with "all water" cooling:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/b16a-coolant-capacity-water-wetter-2249636/

First sentence is "The race car has 100% water for coolant as per the SCCA/NASA race rules.":
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/race-car-coolant-winter-1792169/

All threads from the "Road Racing/Autocross & Time Attack" forum.

See anyone in any of those threads telling the OP that he needs to run anti-freeze (the correct name for "coolant")?

Spawne32, you have given some good information (I swear I remember reading posts from you that were spot on), but please don't tell people that lacking anti-freeze will cause a car to overheat.

 

touche, but do you really want me to get into vapor pressure of h2o to explain the fact that the 10-14psi seen in the cooling system is not nearly enough to increase the boiling point above the temps that he is seeing? Remember, you also said ameteurs are running water + a surfactant. Surfactants greatly improve the cooling ability of water, as well as increase its boiling point. Any additive, regardless of what it may be, always affects the propertys of water.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

 

were also talking about a problematic cooling system here, one that may or may not be completely undersized for the amount of water in the system, a drop of water boils away faster in a frying pan then a gallon

 

also to the OP, when you are filling your cooling system, do you have the heater on or off? the temp on your hvac control needs to be set to hot to open up the valve for the heater core to allow that part of the system to fill.

 

The heater is on, but when the cars starts to get hot the heater blows out cool air. I'm not sure what the hvac is. Also the iact valve has been deleted.