Dart Block question
I found a site that sells dart block for $1,995. My question is this; I have a 1993 Acura Integra with a B18. The car is currentlt all stock as far as motor and drivetrain go. And as far as I know I have a cable clutch. If I bought a B20 Dart block would I have to change my tranny over or could I still use the one I have with no problems? I know the mounts are all the same for the motor, but not to sure about this. I was planning on building up an ls/vtec, but if I can do this I'll just drop in a B20.
before you drop major cash on a dart block consider this; they come completely bare and still require lots of machine work to clean them up.
with that kind of money you can build your current block with sleeves, internals, whatever you want.
with that kind of money you can build your current block with sleeves, internals, whatever you want.
Well I can't find anybody to do the work for a decent price with good feedback. The lowest price I can get is $1400 just for the block work. But like I said I found a dart block for $1995. A friend of mine said he wasn't to fond of the dart blocks though case they can run very hot. He suggested another performance block but I can't remember the name. Do you know of anybody that does block work for a good price?
seriously unless you want to make well over 700whp i see no need for you to dump that kind of money into a dart block. what are you trying to do to the block? sleeved? internals?
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Quick lil search i did for you. Maybe it will help, maybe not, just giving options.
Good Luck.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1570358
Quick lil search i did for you. Maybe it will help, maybe not, just giving options.
Good Luck.
Send your block to JG Engine Dynamics
Stage 2 Turbo short block build.
These short blocks make for a great daily driver and can take the abuse of weekend racing. Max 750whp.
Short blocks include, Re sleeve using our straight ductile iron sleeves (our GEN3 block), bore and power hone to a max size of 84mm, resurfacing the deck, hot tanking the engine, ACL bearings, micro polished crankshaft, CP forged pistons, Scat rods & professional assembly. $2500. (new oil pump extra)
Note: These blocks on 81-82mm pistons can handle up to 35 psi of boost. On 84mm 30 psi.....
Stage 2 Turbo short block build.
These short blocks make for a great daily driver and can take the abuse of weekend racing. Max 750whp.
Short blocks include, Re sleeve using our straight ductile iron sleeves (our GEN3 block), bore and power hone to a max size of 84mm, resurfacing the deck, hot tanking the engine, ACL bearings, micro polished crankshaft, CP forged pistons, Scat rods & professional assembly. $2500. (new oil pump extra)
Note: These blocks on 81-82mm pistons can handle up to 35 psi of boost. On 84mm 30 psi.....
Thanks guys. I really like what I saw at JGE. Very nice. I think I might just set aside some money for a while and go with them. $6,800 for a 750 HP Type-R is a very good price. Thats gonna be nice. 1993 Integra GS Type-R at 750HP. I wonder if I would take a Honda Tuning cover?
i wouldnt be too set on that hp number. you dont know what kinda of turbo they used. undoubtebly something big that would be insane for a street setup.
true. I don't know I guess I'll just do my little mods to my stock motor. Then just drop a type-r in next year, and play with that. I know I've got a lot to learn so we'll see what all I pick up by then. Thanks for your help guys.
But I do have another question though. I found rebuilt 97-01 Type-R motors for $2,600. Well technicaly $3200 cause theres a $600 core charge and I don't have a Type-R core but anyway... When I get this motor (probably next year) since I have an OBD1 what will I have to do? I am also going to get a Hondata S300 (but I'm doing that soon for my current motor). If you would check out rywire.com and look at their ECU JUMPER section and let me know what I'll need. I can't freakin figure it out. This whole motor thing is completely new. I've always been the body guy. ASE Certified baby!!
Heres the link
http://rywire.com/store/ecu-ju...60082
Modified by darkstarsinner at 11:16 PM 4/19/2007
Heres the link
http://rywire.com/store/ecu-ju...60082
Modified by darkstarsinner at 11:16 PM 4/19/2007
Yeah but my B18A is going on 130k. I don't think I'll be able to safely boost with that mileage. Besides if I drop this Type-r in later I know I can boost comfortably and get decent HP with some other external mods. And the Type-R motor has so much more stock internaly than my B18A will ever have. Little things that I can never get with my motor. Like the webbing and squirters, you know the drill. And a 93 ITR?? Tell me that wouldn't be nice. But in about a year I will have some parts up for sale (header, intake, and intake manifold).
Well thats why I was on here asking. So where am I wrong? In saying that I don't trust my 130,000 Mile motor to take a boost beating? It's already got **** wrong with it. Or am I wrong in saying that I would much rather like to drop a Type-R with zero miles in? I have a beat up non-vtec motor that can't take much more. So what don't I know what I'm talking about? The webbing? Do you know what that is? Or the squirters that come on the Vtec's? So now my question is this, because I never even listed anything other then technical questions and calls for opinions, do you know what your talking about?
Modified by darkstarsinner at 9:18 AM 4/23/2007
Modified by darkstarsinner at 9:18 AM 4/23/2007
do compression and leakdown tests to determine the health of the engine before calling it ****. honestly 130k is nothing if it was well maintained.
your other option if it is indeed taking a **** is to rebuild. it's still a very capable engine when built.
you dont need the extra webbing or the oil squirters when you correctly build it with internals and dont take shortcuts.
your other option if it is indeed taking a **** is to rebuild. it's still a very capable engine when built.
you dont need the extra webbing or the oil squirters when you correctly build it with internals and dont take shortcuts.
hey OP, the type r motor is the most powerful NA b series from the factory, but it has highest compression aswell. FYI high compression isn't what you want for a turbo setup. You want lower compression, which is what your LS has. I say buy a JDM b18b with low miles for around $800 and boost it for $1500 if you do the work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS’R’ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey OP, the type r motor is the most powerful NA b series from the factory, but it has highest compression aswell. FYI high compression isn't what you want for a turbo setup. You want lower compression, which is what your LS has. I say buy a JDM b18b with low miles for around $800 and boost it for $1500 if you do the work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
higher compression makes more power on less boost and has better off boost response. you just have to have a very good tune as you have less room for error preventing detonation.
higher compression makes more power on less boost and has better off boost response. you just have to have a very good tune as you have less room for error preventing detonation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
higher compression makes more power on less boost and has better off boost response. you just have to have a very good tune as you have less room for error preventing detonation. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have to agree with that. Its hard to tune from what i understand but its usually a ansty car when its finished
higher compression makes more power on less boost and has better off boost response. you just have to have a very good tune as you have less room for error preventing detonation. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have to agree with that. Its hard to tune from what i understand but its usually a ansty car when its finished
lol, okay okay I'll get the testing done and see what comes back. Though I have to say I like the idea of the Type-R, and Yeah I heard all about the compression thing, but see when it comes to building up a motor I am in no way anygood. Never really done things like this. It's still kinda new. But I'll check it out none the less. and if in the end I decide for the Type-R anyway then I'll post up the old motor to you guys first. Sound good?
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