I want to boost my compression from 9:1 to 11:5:1. I just bought my eagles, and got my crank back from the shop. I can't decide between the .25 over CTR for $350 or the 81.5 Endyn Rollerwaves for $550. I have heard that with the CTR's I cannot use my Eagle's cause of the CTR wrist pin.

 

I hope the shop didnt touch the crank...and only inspected it.

You can use Eagles with the OEM pistons...there is a way to connect them. A machine shop should know.

 

i went with the rollerwaves, the reason was because it was going to cost more to buy the oem pistons and get them modified to fit the eagle rods. the roller waves i went with were their lower high cr pistons 11.5:1 but after actualling having the engine apart and taking measurements the CR is closer to 12.5:1 with a stock head gasket, and no head milling

if i can get the car running good with no fear of detonation i'll run it like that on 94 fuel, if not i'll just get a thicker head gasket, i dont think it will be much of a problem though, good luck

 

Are you sure on those measurments? Even with 0 deck height there is no way to get 12.5:1 CR from the NA (Low) B18A/B pistons...unless you mill the head ALOT.

 

Or unless the block was decked...
Are you sure all the measurements were correct?


Jason

 

well i used this formula to come up with the numbers
http://www.superhonda.org/board/show...threadid=55735

i asked the engine builder if all the measurements were correct that i used, he measured them and said yes, so if i made a mistake some where, then yes it could be off, i'll post up the exact formula i used with the numbers in it later today

 

I was told by the machine shop that did my work. That I couldn't use itr pistons because of the wrist pins being different. I'm also using eagle rods.

 

i think i figured out where my problem is, it looks like there was only one number for the RW pistons so it could be the "higher" high CR pistons they are using for numbers, that was the only part i didnt measure by hand, i think i'll call endyn and ask them of they have the specs for my pistons

 

What can I do if I want to use CTR pistons and have the Eagle's . Is there any other brand that will work? Should I get ARP cap screws and get my LS rods shotpeened?

 

Since I am all NA and not running any boost why do I need to spend $200 more for forged

 

 

if you are going to use stock rods, imo dont bother to shot peen them, its doesn't really make them any stronger, if any thing it will just make them more brittle

if you are planing to go to no more than about 7500 rpm you're stock rods should be fine, but yes it would be good to put some ARP rod bolts in there, if you want to go above 7500 i would say switch to aftermarket rods and then decide if you want to spend the money to buy oem pistons and mod the rod to fit or spend the extra $ and buy aftermarket pistons, good luck

 

yup, you are right, thanks man

 

ok i figured out my mistake

i was using the piston displacement of a high CR NA piston, some where around 7.45cc per piston, i redid the caculations with the right numbers from Larey at Endyn 4.20cc per piston for the B18B 81.5mm "low" CR NA pistons

with a 81.5mm bore, stock stroke, and slightly ported and polished head with a combustion chamber of 45.5mm, stock head gasket .6mm and zero deck i come out with a CR of 11.45:1

it will give me less hp than the 12.5:1 but it will run more reilaby on pump gas

 

Shotpeening doesn't make the rods any weaker, it actually makes them more dense, which prevents stress risers from forming. Unless the rod is a billet piece shotpeening is an effective and inexpensive way to strengthen the rod structure.

 

an inexpensive solution to the rods is to use itr rods.

 

ITR rods are a different length and different journal size no?

 

here's why i said its not worth it to shotpeen stock rods

quote:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
by Larry Widmer at Endyn BBS



When people have us do headwork, manifold work, supply pistons, cams, etc.....we like to see them invest in some (good) aftermarket rods, but some insist on using the Honda pieces.....even at 9,500 rpm and 240 hp.

See the attachment for a picture of the stock rod that cost an entire engine.....and this is just one of many we're aware of....

The rod was shot-peened at the factory (it was stock.) Shot-peening is simply a method of stress-relieving the surface of the rod. It will (help) eliminate stress risers that originate at the surface, but it's far from being a magic
treatment that will enable you to safely make gobs more power at higher rpm in a modified engine.

I'd use ARP fasteners, shot-peen, and resize stock rods for a high performance application ONLY if the rules required me to run the stock pieces. Hell, by the time you properly prepare stock rods, they'll be worth more than most aftermarket rods.

heres the whole thread if the pic doesn't show up
http://www.superhonda.org/board/show...ighlight=motor

yea it may help a little but i think it just makes them more brittle, i'd just go for the aftermarket ones