Changed master cylinder on my 99 gsr. Bleed the line using two people. One pumping and holding the clutch pedal and I would open the bleeder. Repeated the process till clutch pedal got hard and no more air was coming out. Took it for a spin. It was still a little hard to shift but not bad at all. Then when I decided to get on it it don't wanna go into third. Left the clutch pushed in and slowly pushed it went in but was hard. Accelerated again and did the same trying to go into fourth but also grinded so I let off the clutch coasted then when I clutched to try and go back into fourth clutch pedal was limp. Next day I change the slave cylander bleed it the same way and got the same results. Cursing around it drove good and smooth tried to get on it and was hard to in third when clutched to go to fourth there was nothing. Came home and been trying to bleed it and get a hard clutch pedal but nothing. Gets a little pressure but if I crank it and try to put it in gear it won't go. At all.

Note: I was using dot 3 for everything until today I tried using dot 4 and I still caint get no pressure. Been fighting with it for a week now.

 

Oh and I also wrapped the clutch line and pumped to see if it had any leaks. Nothing. Please help

 

Once you have bled the clutch system and clutch pedal is "hard", when you step on the clutch, how much does the slave cylinder push rod move?

Once pushed all the way that the hydro system can push the clutch release fork, [stepping on clutch pedal] can the clutch fork be pushed any more, using a big screw driver or something?

Was the shifting problem the reason you replaced the master and slave cylinders?


If so, the problem is most likely not a hydro system problem but a clutch spring problem as the symptoms seem to indicate. 94

 

Ok I finally got tired of working on it. So decided I was just gunna drive it from my moms to my house without using the clutch. And drive it to a shop in the morning. So I get in the car put it in reverse push the clutch and crank it. Normally it would start backing up but it didn't. Clutch is still very soft. Barely move the clutch pedal and car starts going almost dies out its trying to take off that fast but barely move clutch. Pushed clutch back in and stopped came out of gear and tried to go in first but wouldn't go. Killed it put it I'm first cranked it once again did not take off. But when I barely come off clutch pedal it takes off. Goes into second okay ish. And so on. When shifting up it goes into gear ok. But if I try to down shift it won't go until I slow down or slowly accelerate with clutch still pushed in until it goes into gear. I can push clutch in with it being in gear and not die out. I can feel it grabbing just a little but if I take it out of gear it won't go back in. Don't know what to do. Someone please help.

 

It was getting very hard to go into gear. Someone said to check the master cylander to see if it was leaking. The clutch pedal was still hard felt like a normal clutch. But the master cylinder was leaking. So I changed it and now I have this problem.

 

The master cylinder is probably not adjusted correctly. If the takeup is very close to the firewall, you need to extend the master cylinder rod. Take the pin off and swing the pedal up and out of the way. Loosen any locknuts on the master cylinder and unscrew the little bracket at the end counterclockwise. It will move up threads on the end of the master cylinder pushrod, effectively lengthening the rod. This should move the takeup point away from the firewall. Be careful not to make it too long.

 

Ok I will try that.

 

Moved the take up point. That is fine now. But when I take off in first it's like no matter how slow I come off the clutch it's starts jumping like its going to die out but hard. Until I am complete off the pedal then it is smooth.
Also clutch pedal is still kinda soft. But it was working good this morning not 100 percent like it should be. But was doing good. What else could be a problem.
What are symptoms of the springs going out in the clutch

 

If the slave cylinder piston rod is moving it's full lenght and you still have a problem, your clutch is the problem.

All the symptoms, including "soft" clutch pedal feel points to broken spring(s) on the clutch.

How old is the clutch, how many miles on it? 94

 

I've bought the car about a months ago had 247 thousand miles. And I'm pretty sure it's the original clutch.

 

Would I need to change the clutch or can I change just the springs.

 

Change the clutch, release bearing, and pilot bearing and change/resurface the flywheel.

 

Alright. It would be a good time to upgrade the clutch and fly wheel. Is like to go with a light weight fly wheel what weight should I got with.

Note: stock for now. I've got a short ram intake ( I call it a whale ***** don't know the real name for it ) skunk2 intake manifold greddy carb legal header. And looking for an exhaust. So once I get the exhaust these things will be bolted on. So something that will go well with these parts and also a good for daily driving.

 

I was looking at a thread the guy was getting reviews on exedy stage one clutch and fedanza flywheel. I seem some good things about. Would it go well with my Set up. What weight flywheel should I get.

 

Unless you are going to track the car, stick with the stock flywheel, it will cost about $20 to have it resurfaced.
Exedy makes a reliable product, the stage one is all you need with "bolt-ons". 94

 

Alright thanks. Happen to know any good websites to order the exedy from?

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/ 94

 

I'll give my input with a lighweight flywheel(9 lbs) it "felt" faster from the get go(from a stop). But if you're street/drag racing the car no....you'll drop revs too fast and thus fall out of you'r upper power band. I fell out of vtec at first wasn't shift fast but still wasn't my car but that's just what i felt. forget the stock weight pretty sure it's 18lbs for the gsr and 17 or so for the ITR if anything i'd try and find an ITR one if you really want to.

 

I think imma go back with a stock. I found a used clutch with flywheel release beating and pilot bearing for 60 I just need something to et my car back on the road for now. But I will check into the exedy prices before I make a decision. And I I go with the exedy clutch. I will look for an itr flywheel.