CEL Code 4. Crank Angle Sensor, What Should I replace??
As title stated I am running a Code 4 on my B18B motor. Earlier this year I asked and people said replace my dizzy which I did but it didn't go away. What do you think I should Replace? When Bent my valves I got a new dizzy for it but it still comes back. I asked the mechanic and he said just replace the Sensor but how would I replace it? I thought its in the dizzy. If anyone had this before Please help me. Before I was in limp mode I could get 325 Miles to the tank of gas but now I can't even get over 250 Miles to the tank of gas. If you been through something like this please help me. Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreFerio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What year? I'll check to see what AllData says. I love my job.
</TD></TR></TABLE> Nevermind... Just realized its a DTC 4, so it's obviously OBD1. Anyway...
It looks like you just need to replace the sensor.
</TD></TR></TABLE> Nevermind... Just realized its a DTC 4, so it's obviously OBD1. Anyway...
It looks like you just need to replace the sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreFerio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Nevermind... Just realized its a DTC 4, so it's obviously OBD1. Anyway...
It looks like you just need to replace the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I was told before from Alldata too. If i'm correct the sensor should be in the dizzy right? If not can you please tell me where it is located because its very annoying and makes me want to get rid of it because its not running correctly.
It looks like you just need to replace the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I was told before from Alldata too. If i'm correct the sensor should be in the dizzy right? If not can you please tell me where it is located because its very annoying and makes me want to get rid of it because its not running correctly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Import_spoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats what I was told before from Alldata too. If i'm correct the sensor should be in the dizzy right? If not can you please tell me where it is located because its very annoying and makes me want to get rid of it because its not running correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the crank sensor is in the timng cover by the balancer.
Thats what I was told before from Alldata too. If i'm correct the sensor should be in the dizzy right? If not can you please tell me where it is located because its very annoying and makes me want to get rid of it because its not running correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the crank sensor is in the timng cover by the balancer.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99Geeezer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, the crank sensor is in the timng cover by the balancer. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry but its by the timing belt cover? Can you please pin point that area for me. Thank you
No, the crank sensor is in the timng cover by the balancer. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry but its by the timing belt cover? Can you please pin point that area for me. Thank you
I had this problem before, and it turned out to indeed be the dizzy. But, it wasn't actually the distributor itself, rather the wiring going to it. So, even if the dizzy got changed out, the problem would still present itself. And it was intermittent, so if you have to same problem, it makes sense that it would go away, and come back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pvt_awol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem before, and it turned out to indeed be the dizzy. But, it wasn't actually the distributor itself, rather the wiring going to it. So, even if the dizzy got changed out, the problem would still present itself. And it was intermittent, so if you have to same problem, it makes sense that it would go away, and come back. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Would you know what wire it is? How did you get yours to go away?
Would you know what wire it is? How did you get yours to go away?
Try this out kid..
disconnect the connector from the crank sensor and since your code is 4, youll have to check the resistance between the blue w/green wire and blue w/ yellow wire. the resistance should be between 350-700 ohms. if not you have to replace the dizzy sub-assembly.
next check for continuity between those each of the terminals and the body ground. if you have continuity then you have to replace the dizzy sub-assembly.
next measure the resistance between wire b15 and b16 with the Ecu disconnected(youll need to find a diagram to know which onese these are). if there is not 350-700 ohms of resistance then theres a short in those two wires somewhere. if there is then check for continuity between the body ground and wires b15, b13 and b11 if there is continuity then theres a short in the circuit somewhere you need to repair.
----------------------------------
there should be 7 wires coming out of the dizzy. i'll list the colors like this:
sensor: wire color/stripe color and then the ecu pin
crank sensor: blue/green B15, blue/yellow B16
cyl sensor: orange B11, white B12
tdc sensor: orange/blue B13, white B14
ingition input signal: yellow/green A22
disconnect the connector from the crank sensor and since your code is 4, youll have to check the resistance between the blue w/green wire and blue w/ yellow wire. the resistance should be between 350-700 ohms. if not you have to replace the dizzy sub-assembly.
next check for continuity between those each of the terminals and the body ground. if you have continuity then you have to replace the dizzy sub-assembly.
next measure the resistance between wire b15 and b16 with the Ecu disconnected(youll need to find a diagram to know which onese these are). if there is not 350-700 ohms of resistance then theres a short in those two wires somewhere. if there is then check for continuity between the body ground and wires b15, b13 and b11 if there is continuity then theres a short in the circuit somewhere you need to repair.
----------------------------------
there should be 7 wires coming out of the dizzy. i'll list the colors like this:
sensor: wire color/stripe color and then the ecu pin
crank sensor: blue/green B15, blue/yellow B16
cyl sensor: orange B11, white B12
tdc sensor: orange/blue B13, white B14
ingition input signal: yellow/green A22
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phils »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am having the same problem with my crx, i just got a new distributor for my dohc zc it was missing bad, can anyone tell me if the distributor was even the problem ???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everyone says it is. They said its a wire in there but I never solved teh problem I just sold my car with it. No more Honda for me.
Everyone says it is. They said its a wire in there but I never solved teh problem I just sold my car with it. No more Honda for me.
im having the same prob. i even replaced my ecu and dizzy. checked continuity and shorts in all 7 wires. all under 1 ohm. i want a pinout pic of a pr4 ecu to make sure all wires r going where they should. im about to give up and crush my crx.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





