camber kit
very very simple..for the front and rear..if you do the front you have to go get a alignment and have them adjust the alignment and camber asap..when I did mine the front wheels were so crooked it needed to be adjusted and such..
I just did my front camber kit this morning. It took an hour, but I did it myself. My car is a 95, should be relativly the same. I took the front wheel and the front strut bar off. Loosend the top bolts on the upper arm of the suspension. I then loosend the fork of the strut. And took out the bolts. Replaced everything and it was that simple.
Once you get in there its pretty easy.
Once you get in there its pretty easy.
what is the differnce between the 2 differnt kinds of camber kits. theres one that looks like the skunk2's and one that looks like the ingalls. how would you install the ingall style ones? i tried to see how it works but just cant figure it out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grn4drgsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the differnce between the 2 differnt kinds of camber kits. theres one that looks like the skunk2's and one that looks like the ingalls. how would you install the ingall style ones? i tried to see how it works but just cant figure it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
Skunks2 Uses the Ball joint to push it out,
Ingalls Pushes the whole Upper A Arm out Both are good Both have there ups an downs
Hopefully these pictures help good luck
Skunks2 Uses the Ball joint to push it out,
Ingalls Pushes the whole Upper A Arm out Both are good Both have there ups an downs
Hopefully these pictures help good luck
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yes. I had about -2* of negative camber before, and it chewed up my old 712's pretty badly. I went through a set in about 7 months. Camber wear owned me then
Although, the car handled incredibly well. Now, I have the camber @ -0.5* and it seems to be doing alright. I need to get an alignment, since I went off roading and hit a rock, some pot holes, and lots of other crap and threw the passenger front tire out of wack
Although, the car handled incredibly well. Now, I have the camber @ -0.5* and it seems to be doing alright. I need to get an alignment, since I went off roading and hit a rock, some pot holes, and lots of other crap and threw the passenger front tire out of wack
On my 91 4Dr Civic I had Steelies W/Sprint 2 1/2" With 3 Coils Cut an boy I was goin through tire Like every 3 0r 4 Monthes... Luckily Tires Were Cheap but that car handled great with My teg tire wear is alot better
for some reason, I have read that the ingalls do squeak a lot.... I installed mine, and it does squeak. My friend also installed his ingalls in his 01 Integra, and had the same squeaking problems. Haven't tried greasing them up. But do get some CAMBER KIT!!! I have a friend who ate his yoko's es100 in 4 months, with daily driving. Don't waste your tires and get a camber kit.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,073
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
*sigh* yet more uninformed responses.... camber does not wear out tires NEARLY as bad as incorrect toe does.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garados »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes. I had about -2* of negative camber before, and it chewed up my old 712's pretty badly. I went through a set in about 7 months. Camber wear owned me then
Although, the car handled incredibly well. Now, I have the camber @ -0.5* and it seems to be doing alright. I need to get an alignment, since I went off roading and hit a rock, some pot holes, and lots of other crap and threw the passenger front tire out of wack
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I went over a year, 25,000 miles on my last tires with -2.3 deg. camber in front. Alignment w/ exact toe settings is key, along w/ frequent tire rotation.
On my current ES100's I started getting some inside wear after 15,000 miles, but my last alignment showed I was around -2.5 deg. in front and -2 in back.
If I were you, I would dial it in to somewhere between -1.5 and -1.8 camber, get the toe set to factory specs, and rotate your tires every 3K-5K miles. Your car will handle way better than it does now with -0.5, and you won't have any tire wear problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garados »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes. I had about -2* of negative camber before, and it chewed up my old 712's pretty badly. I went through a set in about 7 months. Camber wear owned me then
Although, the car handled incredibly well. Now, I have the camber @ -0.5* and it seems to be doing alright. I need to get an alignment, since I went off roading and hit a rock, some pot holes, and lots of other crap and threw the passenger front tire out of wack
</TD></TR></TABLE>I went over a year, 25,000 miles on my last tires with -2.3 deg. camber in front. Alignment w/ exact toe settings is key, along w/ frequent tire rotation.
On my current ES100's I started getting some inside wear after 15,000 miles, but my last alignment showed I was around -2.5 deg. in front and -2 in back.
If I were you, I would dial it in to somewhere between -1.5 and -1.8 camber, get the toe set to factory specs, and rotate your tires every 3K-5K miles. Your car will handle way better than it does now with -0.5, and you won't have any tire wear problems.
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