First off, 93 integra LS 1.8L 3DR. I went to an Acura dealership and shelled out a bill to diagnose the a/c system. From their diagnosage, I need a new ac compressor(it was leaking), a/c line from condensor to compressor, and a new schrader valve. The guy said all this was going to cost $1400 with labor, which was obviously ridiculous. He was cool though and said I should just get the parts used to save a bit.

Any how, I'm picking up a used working integra ac system for $175. My car was converted to r134a however....so when I use the condensor and compressor from the used setup that I'm buying, what exactly will I need to do to make them r134a compliant...I know from looking on previous posts that they are some kind of fittings or something that would need to be changed, and I have to use a specific oil in the compressor correct? Perhaps the fitting I would just use from what's on the car now since it was r134?

Also how tough is it to install the compressor and condensor line? If it has leaks at the line and compressor, then I won't have to discharge the system or anything correct? The manual that I have basically shows me how to uninstall and reinstall everything, it's what I need to do before hand that's got me puzzled.

I think I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but this a/c stuff seems pretty technical. I suppose if I can just buy the used setup and get someone to install it at a fair price...then at least I saved a bit in a sense in comparison to the dealer price. Sorry for the long post, any help appreciated.

 

Well I called a place and they were willing to intall the compressor and condensor line for $178, and do the evac and recharge for $80 as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93integrastock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I called a place and they were willing to intall the compressor and condensor line for $178, and do the evac and recharge for $80 as well.
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Yeah, usually laypeople, no matter how mechanically inclined they are, do not have the proper equipment to service their own AC systems. Done properly, it requires a evacuation/ recharge machine which run upwards of $2000 to $3000. Compressor oil is hygroscopic which means it attracts moisture from the air. Not only that, but the receiver-drier has a dessicant which also readily attracts moisture. If your AC system is not evacuated and is left open to the atmosphere for too long, it's bad news for your AC system. From what I gather, certain acids are created by the reaction of compressor oil and moisture from the air.

In regards to your retrofit --- it depends on who you ask.

Certain AC compressors which are OEM equipment on R12-equipped vehicles have difficulty sustaining proper operation after being converted to R134a. Usually, this is a result of increased system pressures. This only applies to some, not all AC compressors. Some AC compressors are better built than others.

For example, there are certain Honda Accords using the Keihin AC compressor which Honda, and aftermarket AC compressor companies, prefers to convert to a Sanden (or other applicable) AC compressor when retrofitting to R134a. This is because Keihins are scarce and expensive, not to mention the Sandens are more adequately prepared to handle the higher pressures of R134a.

The retrofit fittings can be found at your local auto store. R12 low and high pressure fittings are male threaded. The retrofit fittings will bolt on top of it and then you have successfully converted your fittings to the coupler-type R134a fittings. Simple as that.

Now, the question is, do you need to change anything else? If your compressor has failed and has motivated you to retrofit [at the same time], then certainly, it would be wise to change the receiver-drier and expansion valve (at least its filter) since they could be contaminated by the compressor debris.

If not, then it's up to you. A receiver-drier and an accumulator (receiver-driers are always found with TXV- thermostatic expansion valves; accumulators are found with orifice tube systems) cannot be flushed, so it's a good idea to change them since they will be saturated with the old mineral oil and R12. They're not too expensive. That's actually the only component I would change.

Most importantly, you must properly flush the condenser, evaporator, compressor, and the suction, discharge, and liquid lines in order to remove the old R12 and mineral oil.

Next --- what compressor oil will you use after your retrofit? Well, that all depends on the compressor, actually. It's best to consult the manufacturer. That's honestly the best answer.


Modified by Power of Dreams at 7:56 PM 8/30/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Power of Dreams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, usually laypeople, no matter how mechanically inclined they are, do not have the proper equipment to service their own AC systems. Done properly, it requires a evacuation/ recharge machine which run upwards of $2000 to $3000. Compressor oil is hygroscopic which means it attracts moisture from the air. Not only that, but the receiver-drier has a dessicant which also readily attracts moisture. If your AC system is not evacuated and is left open to the atmosphere for too long, it's bad news for your AC system. From what I gather, certain acids are created by the reaction of compressor oil and moisture from the air.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this man knows his ****!!

yeah but if your wanting to retrofit the system from r12 to r134a, you can buy retrofit kits that come with all the proper fittings and maybe even proper oil..


in most of the retrofits i do, i use pag 46 oil or ester, its recommended that when doing r12 to r134a retrofit you replace your receiver drier. replacing the receiver drier is also recommended whenever the ac system is left open.

i cannot stress enough, but you will need to put the system under a vaccuum before you recharge the system, like the poster up top said, air in the ac system is bad news.

if you dont have the proper tools to do the ac system diagnosis and repair, get estimates from reputable local shops that are certified and have all the proper equipment to service and diagnose ac systems.

it may cost u a pretty penny to get your ac up and running, but think about if your tried to knock it out yourself then caused numerous other problems that could cost you more in the long run....im lucky enough to have my own snap on 1.5cfm vac pump and r12 and r134a manifold gauges, although i do more r134a systems than i do r12, so my r12 gauges are still BRAND NEW IN THE BOX after 4 yrs of no use
my 2 cents..