Broken bolt
A few weeks ago i removed a 10 mm bolt from what looks like what holds the camshaft down on the distributor side. It's a semicircle piece that holds down the bearing (?) that the camshaft rests in. There are two 10 mm bolts that go on each side. Today I tried tightening one of them a little bit more, and I broke it off. The head, and part of the bolt including part of the threaded section came out. However, the half circle piece didn't pop up, so im guessing part of the threaded part is in both sides, keeping them attached. Now i don't see oil spraying out with the engine running, so I assume they are still tightly clamped together, but is there any issues? 94 Acura integra LS b18b. Ask for more info.
Its on the exhaust cam.
Its on the exhaust cam.
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Try using a extractor to remove it. As you found out, little 10mm bolts like that will easily break off when too much torque is applied. You really only need to snug them up. If you are ever in doubt than just buy a 1/4 or 3/8 torque wrench and follow the torque spec for it.
I snapped a valve cover bolt trying to tighten it too hard on my J32. It was on the rear bank and it's hard to see so I didn't bother trying to use a extractor kit to remove it.
I snapped a valve cover bolt trying to tighten it too hard on my J32. It was on the rear bank and it's hard to see so I didn't bother trying to use a extractor kit to remove it.
A few weeks ago i removed a 10 mm bolt from what looks like what holds the camshaft down on the distributor side. It's a semicircle piece that holds down the bearing (?) that the camshaft rests in. There are two 10 mm bolts that go on each side. Today I tried tightening one of them a little bit more, and I broke it off. The head, and part of the bolt including part of the threaded section came out. However, the half circle piece didn't pop up, so im guessing part of the threaded part is in both sides, keeping them attached. Now i don't see oil spraying out with the engine running, so I assume they are still tightly clamped together, but is there any issues? 94 Acura integra LS b18b. Ask for more info.
Its on the exhaust cam.
Its on the exhaust cam.
for whatever reason, my valve cover gasket keeps leaking out oil. I removed the valve cover to paint it. Great. I installed new spark plug tube gaskets, those seal up great. The Fel Pro gasket was too big, and didn't seal up right, so i cleaned up the old one and reused it. Great. But The valve cover studs are messed up to where i can only tighten the nuts so much before it backs off again, so the valve cover is on tight, just not tight enough apparently, to keep oil from seeping out. Now it's not a critical leak, it looks really small, but after tightening up the valve cover as much as i could it still leaks, so I'm wondering, should I use some gasket maker and run it along the crack where the valve cover and the head meet? also, does anybody know the thread and pitch for the valve cover studs on the valve cover side?
for whatever reason, my valve cover gasket keeps leaking out oil. I removed the valve cover to paint it. Great. I installed new spark plug tube gaskets, those seal up great. The Fel Pro gasket was too big, and didn't seal up right, so i cleaned up the old one and reused it. Great. But The valve cover studs are messed up to where i can only tighten the nuts so much before it backs off again, so the valve cover is on tight, just not tight enough apparently, to keep oil from seeping out. Now it's not a critical leak, it looks really small, but after tightening up the valve cover as much as i could it still leaks, so I'm wondering, should I use some gasket maker and run it along the crack where the valve cover and the head meet? also, does anybody know the thread and pitch for the valve cover studs on the valve cover side?
Are you stupid? stop bumping ****!!! we told you...holy **** if you lived near me I'd remove it for free to shut you up. Go to a garage and get them to do it should be like 60 bucks or bring them the head($20). Why are you SOOOO dumb no on-one else in this section is as ignorant as you, even the guy who has never changed his oil knows more then you.
I get you may not have a ton of tools at your disposal, in that case go to a garage it took me 2 years to collect my current "shop" and I had to go to a garage many a time for things like this. Heck I still went to a garage to get my fits ball joints pressed in.
I get you may not have a ton of tools at your disposal, in that case go to a garage it took me 2 years to collect my current "shop" and I had to go to a garage many a time for things like this. Heck I still went to a garage to get my fits ball joints pressed in.
Son, I realize you're very young, very inexperienced, and lack the correct tools and documentation, but you really do need to try and educate yourself.
-- The valve cover studs unscrew from the head. See the little hex at the bottom of each one? You can use a wrench to remove them and replace them with new ones.
-- The bolt you broke can be removed by taking off the valve cover and the cam cap (the remaining three bolts). Rotate the engine so that the two cam lobes right next to that cam cap are pointing straight up to the sky, then unbolt the cam cap. You'll probably find that a sharp punch and a small hammer will drift the remains of the bolt in a counter-clockwise direction, which will allow the remains to eventually come out of the head. In fact, you may even get lucky enough that some of the bolt may be sticking up above the surface of the head, and you can just turn the remains out with your fingers.
-- All the bolts you're working with have specific torque values. If you exceed those values, you can break things, which is exactly what you've done. Go to Harbor Freight and spend ten dollars on a simple beam-type torque wrench. Those nuts and bolts you're stripping and breaking are meant to be tightened to 7 foot pounds and no more.
-- The valve cover gasket is about $20 at an Acura dealer. You fix a leak by replacing the gasket, not by treating it like a hydraulic compression-fitting. If you don't have $20, then you've got even deeper problems.
I'm done. Now, watch everything I've said go way over the boy's head...
-- The valve cover studs unscrew from the head. See the little hex at the bottom of each one? You can use a wrench to remove them and replace them with new ones.
-- The bolt you broke can be removed by taking off the valve cover and the cam cap (the remaining three bolts). Rotate the engine so that the two cam lobes right next to that cam cap are pointing straight up to the sky, then unbolt the cam cap. You'll probably find that a sharp punch and a small hammer will drift the remains of the bolt in a counter-clockwise direction, which will allow the remains to eventually come out of the head. In fact, you may even get lucky enough that some of the bolt may be sticking up above the surface of the head, and you can just turn the remains out with your fingers.
-- All the bolts you're working with have specific torque values. If you exceed those values, you can break things, which is exactly what you've done. Go to Harbor Freight and spend ten dollars on a simple beam-type torque wrench. Those nuts and bolts you're stripping and breaking are meant to be tightened to 7 foot pounds and no more.
-- The valve cover gasket is about $20 at an Acura dealer. You fix a leak by replacing the gasket, not by treating it like a hydraulic compression-fitting. If you don't have $20, then you've got even deeper problems.
I'm done. Now, watch everything I've said go way over the boy's head...
1st, of all, that's a clean motor.
It will eventually seep oil down the side/front of the head, making that clean engine not so clean anymore.
When you notice oil on the side/front that's when you need to take the valve cover and cam cap off.
Last Winter, when it was -12 outside, I decided to replace my cam seal plug.
I set my (Harbour Freight) torque wrench correctly, but it didn't work the same in really cold weather, as it had in the Summer.
I broke 2 bolts, after I got the valve cover off.
I used a ball point pen to catch the edge of one (it turned CCW very easily) and I used my finger nails on the 2nd.
When you buy the bolt (from Acura), make sure that you get the correct one, as they are not all the same length. Might as well buy a cam seal plug, while you're there.
I've reused my gasket three times, so you shouldn't need a new one. Just forrlw the service manual instructions.
Get yourself a torque wrench.


It will eventually seep oil down the side/front of the head, making that clean engine not so clean anymore.
When you notice oil on the side/front that's when you need to take the valve cover and cam cap off.
Last Winter, when it was -12 outside, I decided to replace my cam seal plug.
I set my (Harbour Freight) torque wrench correctly, but it didn't work the same in really cold weather, as it had in the Summer.
I broke 2 bolts, after I got the valve cover off.
I used a ball point pen to catch the edge of one (it turned CCW very easily) and I used my finger nails on the 2nd.
When you buy the bolt (from Acura), make sure that you get the correct one, as they are not all the same length. Might as well buy a cam seal plug, while you're there.
I've reused my gasket three times, so you shouldn't need a new one. Just forrlw the service manual instructions.
Get yourself a torque wrench.


If that bolt doesnt come out easily just grab a drill a bit and an easy-out... go to a dealer get a gasket and stop battling your confusion with ignorance.. and start taking a min to acctually think for yourself...extract the broken bolt and replace it.. follow torque specs already provided for you and re- assemble your motor what is so complicated that you keep bumping this thread?




