Tj K

100% right.

K20.ek

How I broke in my motor with ls crank w/ eagle rods and 9.0.1 Carrillo pistons in a gsr about couple months ago...
1-I start it up let it warm up to operating temperature check for leaks, bleed coolant and check for anything out the ordinary, I also have wideband gauge so I make sure my afr is not lean or rich (I have Hondata s300v3) then shut it off change oil I used conventional cheap oil.

2- start it up warm up to operating temperature and time ignition then rev my rpm to 1-3k and adjust my my fuel then start driving from 2-3k rpm and adjust fuel then 2-4K rpm adjust fuel again then 2-5k rpm adjust then 2-6k rpm adjust fuel while doin that I let the tranny do the braking for me

3- I tuned vtec setting it low to 2k- 7k rpm and adjusted fuel and let tranny do the braking. After I have fuel dialed in then I start doin the same as I did for when I adjust fuel I’ll keep varying my rpm and letting the tranny do the braking ( Very Important Is letting the Tranny do the braking ) it’ll help seal the rings to your cylinder walls as said from others.


my oil change:
-first start up
-50 mi
-100mi
-500mi
-1000mi then every 1500 since I’m boosted

K20.ek

K20.ek

Tj K

Race cars don’t need breaking in. You don’t see full race cars driving down your local street breaking it in. Build it and let it ripp

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

Bumping a 16 year old thread just to spread wrong information, good **** brah.

Yes...engines require break in, the rings need to seat to hold good compression.

K20.ek

Every motor needs broken in to seal the rings with the newly honed cylinder. You don’t run a newly built motor Without engine braking and varying rpms. The rings won’t seal correctly if your not varying rpms and engine braking.

Depending what the race car is used for, they are some that break the motor in on the streets but mostly done on the Dyno to get the AFR and ignition timing spot on to get the most maximum power out of it while varying rpms to see where the lean/rich spots are because in a race car squeezing out as much power as they can is important.

I’ve recently built a lsv-T in a gsr and I vary my rpms starting from 2k- 8500k rpms and letting engine braking is the most critical part of rings sealing.
And as of today I beat the hell out of it to 8500rpms with no hesitation or problems boosting over 20psi, hell there are times I push it to 9k rpms and no problems at all.

I’ve also rebuilt a NA ls rods ls crank w/ type r pistons in a gsr and I babied it breaking it in, not varying rpms and just staying low as 7k rpms. It smoked while normal driving and giving it throttle and didn’t feel as strong cause the rings didn’t seat good. compression was at 150 +\- 5 on all cylinders. That was pretty weak *** lsv in a gsr. But never again will I baby it again!

wunfstgsr

When I assembled my brand new crate B18C5 cylinder head to a brand new B18C5 assembled crate short block built from Honda for my Integra project this is how I broke the engine in,

copied from link,
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...0vtec-1676914/

Fill the motor up with 30W non detergent oil (quality does not matter). Just buy the cheapest you can find. Also, pick up the cheapest oil filter you can find (usually Fram). Check the dipstick periodically to see when the oil pan is full. Try not to fill higher than the upper most dot on the dip stick. It should be around 4 quarts (remember, you need a little extra oil for the vtec oil line).
Fill the motor with a 50/50 mixture of coolant to water. Believe it or not, the more water this mixture has, the cooler the engine will run. But, you need antifreeze in colder climates to prevent coolant freeze/expansion, as well as to prevent the water pump and sleeves from corroding. So, you would be fine to run 70/30 water/coolant ratio in the summer. Water does evaporate though, so check the level a little more often.
Make SURE you have your oil drain plug and oil filter installed, as well as your fill cap re-tightened.
Now, disconnect the ecu and turn the motor over for roughly 30 seconds to build up oil pressure. This is the easiest way to ensure you will not be injecting fuel and spark into the cylinders. Reinstall the ecu you will be using.
Fire the motor up and check for leaks. Make sure to check around the vtec oil line, as well as around the corners of the head, and underneath the distributor. These are common places for motors in general to leak oil. Make sure the oil pressure light extinguishes immediately. If not, turn the car off and troubleshoot. Let the car reach full operating temperature. Immediately begin to tune the car for a 14.1-15.1 AFR at idle. The closer to 14.7:1 the better. That's it. For the rest of the tuning, I'd suggest a street tune first then tune on the dyno, but every tuner has his/her own ways.

< u>Oil changing schedule:</u>
Startup - 30w non detergent, change after warm up
after 20 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 100 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 500 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 1000 miles - your favorite non-syn/synthetic (it is now safe to run synthetic)

< u>Now for the break in.</u> Try to vary the revs as much as possible, with alot of short blasts. It is very important that you let the engine "brake" itself by just letting off the throttle and letting the vehicle slow down on it's own, while in gear. This creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the **** out of the motor, up to it's maximum rev range, as long as it is tuned accordingly. As long as the bearings are within spec and the rod bolts were torqued correctly, there is NOTHING to worry about.

Engine was built about 10 years ago and Its been boosted most its life knock on wood runs great.