Whats up guys, I just got redone rebuilding my whole entire engine due to me screwing it up. My question is that since i got it completely rebuilt with new goodies how should i break it in. I have an idea on how to break it in but i have one problem. My transmission grinds in third and sometimes it won't go into that gear. So i usually shift from 2nd to 4th gear but to do that i have to take it up to around 4300 rpm. i'm running a LS tranny. i bought syncrhomesh fluid but i doubt that will help. is there anything else i can do.
Engine: B18c1
My mods:
Aem cold air intake
skunk2 intake manifold
removed P.S
removed A.C
Fluidyne radiator
Clutchmasters stage 3 clutch
Ground control coilovers
98 front end conversion
01 tailights
Civic type r pistons (stock bore)
ARP rod bolts
mni power valve train (retainers, springs, valves)
Skunk2 stage2 cams
JDM dc 4-1 itr header
Skunk2 megapower exhaust
carsound hi flo cat
Hondata s200 w/o boost
slights port and polish
and 3 angle valve job.
Also the whole block was sanblasted, honed, and hot tanked.

 

i know WHY???? an LS tranny??? but my funds are a little low for now. i'm planning on getting a b16 tranny.

 

?

 

Id be more concerned about the initial start up, ITS CRUTIAL to be done correctly, know what your doing please, search and if you cant figure it out then ask and ask until you know exactly what your doing. I dont know a lot about it, but I know you cant assemble a motor, pour in oil and just start the key, its gotta get primed or something somehow.

To you question, your motor will break in fine, if you cant do 3rd gear all the time it aint gonna hurt anything. If the assemble was done well id say 5000 is a good shift limit. These arnt fragile motors, have faith.

 

yeah i have help from a performance shop with building it but they suggested that 3000 rpm should be an ideal shift point to at least 200 miles. then gradually work my way up as i gain more mileage

 

This is how I break in my customer's built motors.

RUN THEM AS HARD AS POSSIBLE

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

why in the hell would you do that??? especially if its not your car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veilsides2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why in the hell would you do that??? especially if its not your car</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, you obviously haven't read the provided website. I've done this to a few motors now and ZERO problems. It's all about providing accurate pressures to the ring to seal it within the first few miles.....doing nothing to the engine will do nothing in return to the rings

 

reading it anyone else?

 

u cant baby it..but you cant start it up, and start drag racing after the initial warmup..

u need to get the rings seated properly...read some articles and than make ur descision..

just read that article...seems pretty legit to me...the science of it makes sense...that not at all "beating" on the motor...its pretty close to what my friend used...i dont know exactly but it didnt involve driving under 3k for 600 miles


Modified by nickG at 3:57 PM 10/14/2005

 

Actually i knew a guy that would build mustang engines, they would fire them up, let it run with some light driving for 10-15 min, shut it down, check everything over for leaks and then go run the hell out of it.

Not saying it is te right thing to do, but it worked for them. They build a lot of motors and never had any problems related to this style of break in.

Kinda OT but i know a lot of guys that run RC cars, you are supposed to do a full break in, they dont. They idle a tank, and then run the hell out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Kinda OT but i know a lot of guys that run RC cars, you are supposed to do a full break in, they dont. They idle a tank, and then run the hell out of it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

WOAH! I had an RC I remeber it was idle then run up and down, but that has nothing to do with the kind f pressure and different sleeve design of a 4 stroke...haha.

The purpose of "beating the **** out of it" is too decelerate and provide those gasses to FORCE against the rings. The acceleration is good, but deceleartion is even more important.

 

so what if i drive it for regularly taking it only to about 4k and then with some WOT runs and then regular again. i'm reallly tryingto do this right because i dont want to mes anything up. i searched but i didnt find anything on a full new rebuilt engine break in. thanks again

 

did you even read the article???

you dont have to follow it exact.y, but if will give you some ideas of what to do...

search for break-in in the archives and esp in the all motor forum