OK first off I did a search and I only came up w/ threads on alternate master cyls for a CRX https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=198427 a thread asking on replacement/brands https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=196430
and abs and non abs master cyl compatibility https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=180176 I don't know if I used the wrong terminology/keywords.. I checked all the forums for "brake master cylinder" both recent and archived..

anyway I have a helms manual and have a pretty good idea how to do it.. but seeing as this is a safety issue I DO NOT want to mess up!!!.. I would just like any input/advice from those who have done it before (brake master cyl replacement).. do you have any guidelines, tips, etc to make my replacement go smoother...

also I am thinking that I can't go wrong w/ OEM parts plus being a safety device I really DON'T want to buy a cheap part that might fail or jeopardize my safety of me, my passengers or my car... unless you guys have a good reason to go w/ other brands (please name them) I'm going to stick w/ an OEM/Honda/Acura master cylinder...

I don't think I can get the part this weekend (6/15) as its already almost 5PM and the Honda/Acura parts counter will be closed on sunday I think... so most likely I'll be doing this next weekend..

any help, advice, etc would be appreciated.. thank you in advance for your replies..

 

It's an easy part to replace. Since you've got a Helms, you shouldn't have any trouble at all. I replaced mine ~1yr ago. Rather than get the OEM part (dealer wants an insane amount, but what's new), I got one from a parts store. Comparing it to the original, it was identical. It's possible that it's a rebuilt OEM master cylinder, but it works fine -- not a single problem. As I recall, I paid ~$35 for it. As for the install, piece of cake. It'd be easy, even without a Helms -- it's that straight-forward.

Good luck.

 

thanks man. yeah it doesnt look hard according to the manual.. I just didn't want to mess up.. or see if ppl had some tips or things I should look out for.. Im going to bleed the master cyl and lines/each caliper after I'm done and flush out the brake system..make sure the fluids clean and air bubble free...... oh yeah in case you guys are wondering why im replacing it.. theres a leak where the master cyl joins the cup/reservoir and I got a spongy pedal.. i bled my brakes not too long ago.. and then today realized its the master cyl...

I'm gonna see how much OEM costs.. cuz I don't think brakes are something I want to skimp on.. thanks for your input

 

OK just an update.. its 10PM now so everything is closed (Honda/Acura parts counter and local Auto Parts stores) I was checking online for some prices and heres what I came up w/ for the master Cyl:

*Honda/Acura:
$214 for http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.net (I hope this is new and not remanufactured)
not sure how much it would cost locally at a dealership parts counter

*Kragen/Checkers/Schucks:
http://www.partsamerica.com

these prices are from their online places.. I'd think the stores carry the same or similar products at same or similar prices...

I'm only looking at the new ones... the remanufactured ones range from $50-100.. and there is a $35-50 core charge (depending on brand/model)... I think I want a new one.. what do you guys think about remanufactured? Since its a safety issue.. I'm hoping the new ones will be better....

BECK/ARNLEY 072-9007 $202.99
BRAKE MASTER CYL: W/ABS

RAYBESTOS MC390200 $178.99
Master Cylinder w/ Power: w/ABS; Disc

Limited Lifetime*

*AutoZone
http://www.autozone.com

RAYBESTOS MC390200 1 YR Warranty $218.99

FENCO_REMAN M52700 LLT Core Charge $35.00 $85.99 (this is remanufactured.. Autozone doesn't have much selection for a G3 95 GSR)

tell me what you guys think? OEM or aftermarket?... I'm DEFINATELY NOT going to get the Raybestos from Autozone.. its $218.99 for the Raybestos w/ a 1 yr warranty from Autozone.. the OEM from Acura is only $214 so I'd rather get OEM... If I do get a Raybestos master Cyl I'm going to get it from Kragen since its $179 and comes w/ lifetime warranty/replacement (how come autozones Raybestos is about $35 more AND only is warrantied for 1 yr.. wtf?) .. then theres the Beck/Arney from Kragen for $203

and I don't think I want the Fenco remanufactured from Autozone...

anyway what brand do you guys think I should buy? OEM/Honda/Acura? Raybestos? or Beck/Arney? I'm leaning towards OEM/Honda/Acura..

oh yeah if you guys know of other places w/ good prices let me know...

Thanks in advance for your input!!!


[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 10:07 PM 6/15/2002]

 

I have a brand new master Cylinder for 1999 and new Integras for sale. OEM never used. $150 shipped.

 

for that amount you can get the OEM one. I think I payed like $210. OEM

Sure you can go aftermarket but when it comes to safety, I dont mess around.. just my $.02

 

yeah i was thinkin OEM too.. i just wanted some input.. thanks

oh yeah my cars a 95..

 

ok heres a little update for you guys.. and I need some help/advice too... I'm pretty pissed off but I'll try to refrain from bad language and such...

ok $200 and about 1.5-2 hours in labor (done by myself) later.. I have a new master cylinder in my car.. I installed it, tightened everything and put brake fluid into the master cyl.. then I bled the master cyl and brakes at each caliper to get all the air bubble and old fluid out of the lines.. all is good right? OK well I go out to my car today.. and there is a small puddle of brake fluid on the floor under the car at the driver side front wheel.. I'm pretty sure I wiped up all the fluid but I don't know if this small puddle is from yesterday (disconnecting the old master cyl)..

anyway I had a friend slam on the pedal while he was in the car (pedal seems firm too) and I had the hood open... from what I can see there is no fluid leaking from where the lines enter the master cyl... however there seems to be some fliud at the bottom of the master cyl (the new one) that leaks from the bottom of the master cyl to the ground.. I don't know if this is from the install (I tried wiping everything clean).. or if the master cyl itself (the new one) is leaking... from what I can see the connections I did yesterday (the brake line fittings to the master cyl).. do NOT seem to be leaking.. but I think something is leaking not sure where..

damn I'm going to be so pissed if this new (not remanufactured) master cyl is defective from the factory cuz that would mean I'd have to exchange it, wait for them to re-order another one.. not be able to use my car for a few days... have to re-install it.. AND re-bleed my brakes ... I'm going to check out my car right now.. so I won't respond for a while..but please give me any input you guys may have.. or any suggestions on what I should look for... the install procedure was pretty simple.. I just need to figure out this leak.. I hope its not a defective part .. but no leaks at the fittings.. let me kno... thank you in advance..

Edit:

*update* never mind... it was residual brake fliud from when i loosened the old master cyl and it dripped down onto some components below and i guess my friend spilled some when he was pouring/filling the master cyl when we were bleeding the system.. some dripped onto the LCA/power steering area and lingered and I guess gravity helped it make its way onto the floor and stuff.. i re-wiped everything.. jacked up the car,put it on stands and wiped everything below.. and all is well pedal is firm, car stops well, bled the whole system and all is good


[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 3:18 PM 6/23/2002]

 

Old thread, maybe someone new can reply and really get the info down in this thread for someone else in the future doing a search on this.

As far as I remember from looking in the Helms a while back, I think they mention to bench bleed the master cylinder. No mention of it here however, is bench bleeding not required?

 

bench bleeding is absolutely required. unless using a power bleeder, you'll never get the air out through the bleeders because of the higher positioning of the MC.
also, what i like to do is bleed the lines at the MC after installation. this ensures no air to be trapped in the system

 

When you replace a master cylinder, be sure to adjust the push rod. Many have had issue with locking brakes after such a replacement because they neglected the adjustment.