ok When I'm on the highway going anywhere over 40mph.. and I step on my brakes the steering wheel SHakes like crazy.... Whats the issue?

 

New rotors will fix that right up.

 

Or have the current rotors 'turned' if there is enough material on them to do that. Also, use a torque wrench set to 80lb/ft in the future when remounting wheels.

 

rotors are warped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or have the current rotors 'turned' if there is enough material on them to do that. Also, use a torque wrench set to 80lb/ft in the future when remounting wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oddly enough most "warped" rotors arent really warped but the metal bewteen the "vents" crushes inward thus making it rippled. Generally that happens after the rotors have worn and the metal is thinner and weaker then it originally was. Also the reason why I said to replace them vs trying to turn them and then have them fail prematurely again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oddly enough most "warped" rotors arent really warped but the metal bewteen the "vents" crushes inward thus making it rippled. Generally that happens after the rotors have worn and the metal is thinner and weaker then it originally was. Also the reason why I said to replace them vs trying to turn them and then have them fail prematurely again. </TD></TR></TABLE>



I've had rotors thermally warp before, where they would only pulsate under hard braking. That is another reason I will not run cut rotors.

StopTech has some good information on "warping" as well.

StopTech: The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System

The shaking could also be a result of a rotor that is not properly seated on the hub, which causes runout and consequently shaking.