Bogging Down DA
Evening Guys, I got a 91 Integra GS 1.8L that i have been trying to get on the road for about a month now.. I have been on here several times with questions and have gotten a little closer each time. The symptom I am having while driving is, I am having a misfire under acceleration (load) around 3K and 4K RPM. If im just cruising there seems to be no problem.
The timing is dead on, i have checked compression 155,150,155,155psi.. Replaced Distributor twice, new fuel pump, fuel filter, wires, and plugs.. yet she is still doggin out on me when i try to step the pedal to the metal.. Any Help would be greatly appreciated, really wanna get this car back on the road ASAP..
THANKS FOR THE IDEAS!!
The timing is dead on, i have checked compression 155,150,155,155psi.. Replaced Distributor twice, new fuel pump, fuel filter, wires, and plugs.. yet she is still doggin out on me when i try to step the pedal to the metal.. Any Help would be greatly appreciated, really wanna get this car back on the road ASAP..
THANKS FOR THE IDEAS!!
i just had the same problem with my DA. I got a ls-vtec in a 1992 gsr and first, my misfire started when i would vtec it, then it started to do it when i would just floor it on any rpms. so my dad told me to check the distributor cap, so i took it apart and it was corroded and then cleaned it and car runs really smooth and no more misfire.
Gently clamp off the fuel return hose to the gas tank and see how it runs, just make one run and remove the clamp while still on the road, not when you come back to the house, just long enough to see if it helps, this is called Dead Head Pressure.
I'm try checkin the grounds, and will try the dead head pressure see if either of these two things make a difference.. thanks for the ideas, i will let ya know what happens..
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The first time you cleaned it was it white corrosion like aluminium corrosion or brown dust corrosion like steel rust. And then on later cleanings silver dust like fresh steel shavings.
interesting! i just replaced my cap from the one thats been on the car for awhile and mine had aluminum white powder like an arching issue and brown spots like steel corrosion. replaced my cap and didnt clear up my issue which is similar to the OP's topic.
White is the aluminium tabs of the spark plug wire tabs corroding. The brownish rust is the main shaft bearing going bad.
There are rebuild kits available for the internal oil leak. But to know if its the cause of intermittent no spark, you would have to clean it completely out and start from there, get intermit spark and see how much oil has gotten into the dizzy at that time.
Anytime you have an oil leak on an engine, you need to change the PCV valve and hose to be sure there is not too much blowby being held back in the crankcase and being forced out of any weak seal that the pressure can find. Once that is out of the way, then you just start replacing leaking seals and gaskets.
There are rebuild kits available for the internal oil leak. But to know if its the cause of intermittent no spark, you would have to clean it completely out and start from there, get intermit spark and see how much oil has gotten into the dizzy at that time.
Anytime you have an oil leak on an engine, you need to change the PCV valve and hose to be sure there is not too much blowby being held back in the crankcase and being forced out of any weak seal that the pressure can find. Once that is out of the way, then you just start replacing leaking seals and gaskets.
got the car finally fixed and running fine.. the problem was in the Distributor cap. the tiny lil spring that fits on the coil from the cap was broken causing the car to bogg down! running like a champion now~~!!!
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