back in the game
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
yeah i know cali is gay but i never got popped with my b16, what happens if they find a turbo or motor that doesnt belong there? and nice find Ross too bad they want basically as much as a tranny alone costs, so the more im researching this the more i want to get rid of this car lol, bought it for $400 thinking i could make it kinda fast for cheap but seems like a headache, miss my crx cuz it was so light but 6' 1" 240 makes it a squeeze to fit in and my wife would kill me
if u are "only 16" how do u even have 20 hours driving time lol. just messin dude, yeah i dont want any freak motors just stock and boosted, one guy i used to work with has been texting me(he is busy and hard to get ahold of) but he is a honda genious asian guy, i found this local place that will give a kit, install and tune for around $1000 here is the link http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/2000713922.html
he thinks its a joke telling me the manifold that he wants just by itself is $700 what do u think
he thinks its a joke telling me the manifold that he wants just by itself is $700 what do u think
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
ill have pics up tomorrow so u can see how clean this $400 piece is, and i just found out that not only was the previous owner a college girl, she was only the 2nd owner and the original owner was a 30 year old woman too, totally untouched very hard to find these days for a teg or civic that old
great deal! looks pretty damned clean, rust-wise.
i'd go b20b turbo. what you really want for a good oem FI motor is the b20b w/p8r head.
this way you'll get the low comp, dished p3f pistons. but also the larger 33mm intake valves of the p8r head. the p8r head combustion chamber is also larger, so will yield an even lower compression.
i know, i know. b20 sleeves are too thin.but imo, i think it has more to do with the condition of the motor. i also think it's more theoretical than anything else. there are tonnes of guys running turbos on stock block b20's without issues.
i probably wouldn't go too big on the turbo. with that low of compression, you'd get a lot of lag with anything too big. you'll want it to spool early. like 3k. that way you'll have a good torquey motor that kills it off the line.
iono. jus my opinion
i'd go b20b turbo. what you really want for a good oem FI motor is the b20b w/p8r head.
this way you'll get the low comp, dished p3f pistons. but also the larger 33mm intake valves of the p8r head. the p8r head combustion chamber is also larger, so will yield an even lower compression.
i know, i know. b20 sleeves are too thin.but imo, i think it has more to do with the condition of the motor. i also think it's more theoretical than anything else. there are tonnes of guys running turbos on stock block b20's without issues.
i probably wouldn't go too big on the turbo. with that low of compression, you'd get a lot of lag with anything too big. you'll want it to spool early. like 3k. that way you'll have a good torquey motor that kills it off the line.
iono. jus my opinion
Thread Starter
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
great deal! looks pretty damned clean, rust-wise.
i'd go b20b turbo. what you really want for a good oem FI motor is the b20b w/p8r head.
this way you'll get the low comp, dished p3f pistons. but also the larger 33mm intake valves of the p8r head. the p8r head combustion chamber is also larger, so will yield an even lower compression.
i know, i know. b20 sleeves are too thin.but imo, i think it has more to do with the condition of the motor. i also think it's more theoretical than anything else. there are tonnes of guys running turbos on stock block b20's without issues.
i probably wouldn't go too big on the turbo. with that low of compression, you'd get a lot of lag with anything too big. you'll want it to spool early. like 3k. that way you'll have a good torquey motor that kills it off the line.
iono. jus my opinion
i'd go b20b turbo. what you really want for a good oem FI motor is the b20b w/p8r head.
this way you'll get the low comp, dished p3f pistons. but also the larger 33mm intake valves of the p8r head. the p8r head combustion chamber is also larger, so will yield an even lower compression.
i know, i know. b20 sleeves are too thin.but imo, i think it has more to do with the condition of the motor. i also think it's more theoretical than anything else. there are tonnes of guys running turbos on stock block b20's without issues.
i probably wouldn't go too big on the turbo. with that low of compression, you'd get a lot of lag with anything too big. you'll want it to spool early. like 3k. that way you'll have a good torquey motor that kills it off the line.
iono. jus my opinion
i dislike you right now that is an amazing find!!!!!!! where were you looking when you found that. i am looking for another da to do a fun setup built b18a with some big cams and a turbo setup!!!!! good luck with your build if you ever need help hit me up!!!!
My honest opinion...I would keep the block you have and put a vtec head on. now you have lsvtec. get a b16 tranny and now you have a fast stock motor. the b16 tranny alone on the LS motor is probably the best upgrade. now you have a very fun and nice setup. then if that was not enough for you, stick a turbo kit on. I personally would not go b20. just my opinion. keep us updated tho.
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
got it smogged fri, or tried i should say, the timing was off, was a 10 supposed to be at 16, failed visual due to the white smoke from the blown gasket and the cat is bad, anyone know where i can get a new cat for cheap? and i think im going b20 vtec my buddy can build one, u guys honestly think i will be that much faster with a b16 tranny? i just remember going 70(with my b16 rex) on the freeway and 5th gear feeling like i was in 3rd cuz it is geared so high lol
Just get GSR swap with tranny. Theres no way to go wrong there. I beat Mazdaspeed Proteges all day in my bone stock GSR. Plus a GSR motor raises the bar higher than your stock motor, or a B16. I wouldm't by that car either, but 400 for a beater is just too much fun to pass up.
keep it simple and cost effective, ls engine + turbo setup + tune and your set, cheap and easy. Plus since your in cali and if you don't have a smog hookup easier to just take the turbo out and back in after your smog check is done then trying to find a new ls engine quick.
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
thanks again for all the input, my final decision is b20 turbo, for now just put in the b20 and make it run with a clutch, ls tranny, new timing belt and water pump, my question is this though, when i go to pick up the motor how do i know that it is the 99-00 b20? i want that one because it has higher compression and 20 more hp than the pre-99 b20s, my buddy said there is a number on the head but i dont know what number to look for
You are very welcome to correct my words though...
I won't argue about this a lot as I'm not really experienced on turbo stuff, but from my basic knowledge, VTEC motors have high compression and extra boost will destroy the engine pretty fast. For that matter, it is needed to modify internals which would be a lot more expensive than $2500 that OP has in his budget.
You are very welcome to correct my words though...
You are very welcome to correct my words though...
That's just some pretty general info and a huge category to throw all vtec motors into.
There is so many of them with many different compression ratios and then a thousand different turbos, tuned differently. I have a d16y8, many people run FI setups on them safely with stock internals *to a point* for a long time and as long as it's maintained properly you won't have any more issues than you would with a stock N/A motor. Not trying to be an ***, and I won't claim to have vast knowledge of every vtec engine and it's FI possibilities.
Anyways to get back on subject lol
@olddohc...Have you heard anything about the notorious thin cylinder walls of the b20s? Anybody who either has truth or can knock down a possible rumor please chime in. I'd like to know myself and it may help OP some.
Im doing a b20vt setup with a hondata s300, with a golden eagle block guard, its all about the tune. We are shooting for about 450hp street tune on E85... If it fails ill let you know if not i'll let you know. But regardless no matter what you run if you dont tune it or tune poorly its going to blow up.










