Another Power Window Thread
I'm new to integras, just picked up my first one, an 95 RS. I've been researching for a few days on my power window issue and can't seem to find a definite answer. My windows are not working. Fuses are good. When i used either the master switch on the drivers side or the passenger switch, i got nothing. I replaced the power window relay, now i am getting a click when i use either switch, but windows are not moving. My passenger window is down and i would really like to at least get it to roll up. Someone please help

And if the driver's side switch (possibly either one, never tested with just passenger side) is unplugged / broken, neither will work.
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i learn something new everyday. makes sense. if the switch is broken tho, would i be hearing the click from the relay when i try and put the windows in motion?
If you hear the relay, that still leaves both the electric motor and the regulator to test/verify.
I managed to short out the power window on my car (kids, don't drive with the windows down in the rain.), and it killed both the regulator and motor...
There are actually four (4) fuses for power windows...
The main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, [hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box, [probably OK].
The control fuse for the relay is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Then there are the fuses for the window motors, fuses 5 and 8 -20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
The first thing I would do is make sure the window motors are good, you will need to remove the door panels, unplug the motors and supply a power and ground directly to them, one way the windows will roll up and if you reverse the polarity the window will roll down.
The power windows on our cars are "Polarity Reversing Ground At Rest" this means both the wires going to the motors are grounds, [when window switches are not pressed], to test the switches and circuits, connect a 12V test light to the two leads at the motor plug, [test light ground to one of the leads and test light probe to the other lead] it makes no difference which way you connect the test light, turn on the ign. switch and rock the window switch up and down, the test light should turn on for both up and down.
If not, either the switch or circuit is bad, to test the circuit, connect test light ground to a 12V+ source, [like batt. pos.(+) post] and touch test light probe to each of the motor plug leads, [pass. window leads are blue/white and blue/red] ]drivers window leads are red/blue and red/yellow, but both leads may be red/blue at the motor plug]. the test light should light up on all four (4) leads, if so ground side is good.
Also be careful there are 4 leads at the drivers door window motor [the blue and black leads are for the limit switch in the motor].
Now connect test light ground to a ground point, turn ign. switch on. then connect test light probe to each of the motor leads, one at a time, and rock the switch for up and down, test light should light up on each lead, one for up and the other for down.
Now before I go any farther, your main switch, [on drivers door master switch] is on. right?
To check for main power and ground unplug the master switch and use test light and probe the white/yellow lead, [drivers window power] green/yellow, [pass. window power]
move test light ground to a 12V+ source and touch probe to the two black leads, one is for the main switch the other is for drivers door switch.
Feel free to IM me if you have questions. 94
The main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, [hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box, [probably OK].
The control fuse for the relay is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Then there are the fuses for the window motors, fuses 5 and 8 -20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
The first thing I would do is make sure the window motors are good, you will need to remove the door panels, unplug the motors and supply a power and ground directly to them, one way the windows will roll up and if you reverse the polarity the window will roll down.
The power windows on our cars are "Polarity Reversing Ground At Rest" this means both the wires going to the motors are grounds, [when window switches are not pressed], to test the switches and circuits, connect a 12V test light to the two leads at the motor plug, [test light ground to one of the leads and test light probe to the other lead] it makes no difference which way you connect the test light, turn on the ign. switch and rock the window switch up and down, the test light should turn on for both up and down.
If not, either the switch or circuit is bad, to test the circuit, connect test light ground to a 12V+ source, [like batt. pos.(+) post] and touch test light probe to each of the motor plug leads, [pass. window leads are blue/white and blue/red] ]drivers window leads are red/blue and red/yellow, but both leads may be red/blue at the motor plug]. the test light should light up on all four (4) leads, if so ground side is good.
Also be careful there are 4 leads at the drivers door window motor [the blue and black leads are for the limit switch in the motor].
Now connect test light ground to a ground point, turn ign. switch on. then connect test light probe to each of the motor leads, one at a time, and rock the switch for up and down, test light should light up on each lead, one for up and the other for down.
Now before I go any farther, your main switch, [on drivers door master switch] is on. right?
To check for main power and ground unplug the master switch and use test light and probe the white/yellow lead, [drivers window power] green/yellow, [pass. window power]
move test light ground to a 12V+ source and touch probe to the two black leads, one is for the main switch the other is for drivers door switch.
Feel free to IM me if you have questions. 94
fuse 14, is that the same fuse for the wipers? if thats so then that could be my issue, i currently have no wipers. The previous owner removed the washer reservoir and rear wiper, and everytime i try and put a new 20a fuse in the fuse pops.
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