ABS Light Code !
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 669
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
this is for a 94 integra. I jumped the service connector and I dont know what this code means...
4 blinks, then a pause, then 8 blinks, then a pause, and 4 blinks then a slight pause,. then 8 blinks again.
What does that mean guys?
4 blinks, then a pause, then 8 blinks, then a pause, and 4 blinks then a slight pause,. then 8 blinks again.
What does that mean guys?
94-97 ABS CODES (thanks to JimBlake):
You pull these codes the same way you pull check-engine codes, but it's the ABS light that's blinking. Here's the sequence...
Insert the jumper, then turn on the key.
Long (2sec.) flash - long (2sec.) pause - this isn't the code yet.
Short flashes for the first digit of the code - 1sec. pause - short flashes for the 2nd digit.
Long (5-second) pause, then the next code.
(94-97) ABS DTCs...
1 - ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 - rear wheel lock - R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock - R
5 8 rear wheel lock - L
6 - fail-safe relay - F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay - F
6 4 fail-safe relay - R
7 1 solenoid - RF
7 2 solenoid - LF
7 4 solenoid - R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check
There's NO long flashes, it's all short flashes with short & long pauses in between.
You pull these codes the same way you pull check-engine codes, but it's the ABS light that's blinking. Here's the sequence...
Insert the jumper, then turn on the key.
Long (2sec.) flash - long (2sec.) pause - this isn't the code yet.
Short flashes for the first digit of the code - 1sec. pause - short flashes for the 2nd digit.
Long (5-second) pause, then the next code.
(94-97) ABS DTCs...
1 - ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 - rear wheel lock - R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock - R
5 8 rear wheel lock - L
6 - fail-safe relay - F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay - F
6 4 fail-safe relay - R
7 1 solenoid - RF
7 2 solenoid - LF
7 4 solenoid - R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check
There's NO long flashes, it's all short flashes with short & long pauses in between.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 669
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
thanks a lot bro, now does anyone know how to take off the sensor on the rear? I've checked the front ones and they were easy, but its different from the rear..
first, check the wiring continuity between the sensor, connector, and wiring harness. check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter. the rear sensors should put out about 1100 to 1600 ohms. if its within normal ohm range, take off the sensor and inspect it for damage or debris sticking to the tip. if it has a lot of debris, the signal strength is reduced. plus check the teeth on the WSS sensor ring aka the gear pulser. also, check the gap bwtween the wheel-speed sensor and their ring, it should be around .02 inches to .035 inches i think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboy204 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks a lot bro, now does anyone know how to take off the sensor on the rear? I've checked the front ones and they were easy, but its different from the rear..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Removing it can be a pain. Most likely, your LCA bushing is seized to the bolt connecting to the shock. The shock must be detached to remove the wheel sensor.
Like mentioned above, verify that the sensor is bad first.
Removing it can be a pain. Most likely, your LCA bushing is seized to the bolt connecting to the shock. The shock must be detached to remove the wheel sensor.
Like mentioned above, verify that the sensor is bad first.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WadeMCarter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first, check the wiring continuity between the sensor, connector, and wiring harness. check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter. the rear sensors should put out about 1100 to 1600 ohms. if its within normal ohm range, take off the sensor and inspect it for damage or debris sticking to the tip. if it has a lot of debris, the signal strength is reduced. plus check the teeth on the WSS sensor ring aka the gear pulser. also, check the gap bwtween the wheel-speed sensor and their ring, it should be around .02 inches to .035 inches i think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The wheel sensor impedance should be between 700 and 1100 ohms.
The wheel sensor impedance should be between 700 and 1100 ohms.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 669
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
k...so just for inspecting the sensor, do I need to remove the shock assy.? cuz i think it just needs cleaning as the ABS was working a month or so ago.
No, you just need to pull the covers at the wheel (parts 1 and 16) to access the sensor. You can check the impedance by disconnecting the plug right behind the rear seat back (you will need to lift the carpet).
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 669
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
damn, i just snapped both the bolts that hold the cover on and stripped 1 bolt that holds the sensor. I hope just the sensor is dirty and just needs cleaning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboy204 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, i just snapped both the bolts that hold the cover on and stripped 1 bolt that holds the sensor. I hope just the sensor is dirty and just needs cleaning.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure the LCA bolts are seized as well. Sorry.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure the LCA bolts are seized as well. Sorry.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboy204 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just inspected the sensor, not much debris if any. I'm going to assume that the sensor is fubar'd?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Most likely, but check the impedance before replacing it.
Most likely, but check the impedance before replacing it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboy204 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will do Dogg.
So the connector is in the backseat underneath the carpet from the trunk???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fold the rear seat down and remove the clips from the carpet. The connector is just behind the rear seat, where the support for the spare cover is located. It is orange if I recall correctly.
So the connector is in the backseat underneath the carpet from the trunk???</TD></TR></TABLE>Fold the rear seat down and remove the clips from the carpet. The connector is just behind the rear seat, where the support for the spare cover is located. It is orange if I recall correctly.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 669
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Hey Dogg,
I checked the resistance of a working sensor on the right rear and the DMM reads 820 ohms, but the left rear (the problem) the DMM reads infinite. does that mean that the sensor is non functional or wire broken??
I checked the resistance of a working sensor on the right rear and the DMM reads 820 ohms, but the left rear (the problem) the DMM reads infinite. does that mean that the sensor is non functional or wire broken??
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