ABS Light
Wassup folks,
My ABS light came on today when i pulled out of the gas station. I haven't had this problem before. I just heard a squeal from the abs motor then the light came on. When i got to school, i started the car again and the abs light went away. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
My ABS light came on today when i pulled out of the gas station. I haven't had this problem before. I just heard a squeal from the abs motor then the light came on. When i got to school, i started the car again and the abs light went away. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLaMmEd GsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wassup folks,
My ABS light came on today when i pulled out of the gas station. I haven't had this problem before. I just heard a squeal from the abs motor then the light came on. When i got to school, i started the car again and the abs light went away. Does anyone know what the problem could be?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem you're decribing sounds like am accumulator problem. This is a common malfunction in 94-97 integra. First thing you need to do is pull the error code. Scroll down on the following thread for instructions and code definitions:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933
My ABS light came on today when i pulled out of the gas station. I haven't had this problem before. I just heard a squeal from the abs motor then the light came on. When i got to school, i started the car again and the abs light went away. Does anyone know what the problem could be?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem you're decribing sounds like am accumulator problem. This is a common malfunction in 94-97 integra. First thing you need to do is pull the error code. Scroll down on the following thread for instructions and code definitions:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933
Go to ECU and aBS codes here topic in this forum. Go down to ABS codes. Here it will tell you how to read codes and find out what aspect of the ABS system is faulty. Mine was high pressure leak. My mechanic is at the moment replacing the entire modualtor/pump assembly with another used one I got from a salvage yard. Your problem may not be the same. If not mechanically inclined, try to find a good mechanic familiar with this ABS system to help you out. Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rich12072 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to ECU and aBS codes here topic in this forum. Go down to ABS codes. Here it will tell you how to read codes and find out what aspect of the ABS system is faulty. Mine was high pressure leak. My mechanic is at the moment replacing the entire modualtor/pump assembly with another used one I got from a salvage yard. Your problem may not be the same. If not mechanically inclined, try to find a good mechanic familiar with this ABS system to help you out. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you try replacing the O-ring at the accumulator before replacing the whole system?? I don't know how much you paid for the new assembly, but the accumulator O-ring is under $2.
Did you try replacing the O-ring at the accumulator before replacing the whole system?? I don't know how much you paid for the new assembly, but the accumulator O-ring is under $2.
When you use the term "accumulator", are you referring to the modualtor or one part of the modulator? what does wrong with the accumulator most often (as you say, it is a "common" problem. My light would be off when I first start the car, and then not go on until after a few mile of driving. Next time I start it, it might not be on at all until I drive it awhile again. The code was "high pressure leak". I purchased a used modualtor from a salvage yard with a 100 day warranty. Should I just have taken it to a mechanic who knows how to take the accumulator apart to change the o-ring?
Timmy8151, you posted just before I did. This is sort of what I was getting at regarding the o-ring. No, eventhough I spent quite some time reading different forums on different sites, I never found anything about just changing the oring until tonight. Since I can't take it back (warranty is to get me another one if this one doesn't work, no return). It's too late now unless the used modulator assembly also has a bad oring. It cost me $100 bucks for the used modualator assembly, but if it works, I'll still be okay with it. But some say it might not be an oring. I don't have the resouces or time to fiddle mechanically with this and my mechanic "doesn't take this stuff apart". Even if he did he'd have to charge me the time involved and likely i'd be getting close to the cost of the used one if not more with no guarantees.
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