I have a 94 integra ls here, and it seems to be having issues with the power windows and the power locks. I just checked the 20A fuses under the dash board, but they appear to be fine. Everything else works fine (radio, sun roof, lights, etc) except for the power windows and power locks. I am about to take off the driver side door panel, to check the electricity going to the motors/switches/etc...

I am posting here to see if anyone has any suggestions as to what to look for? Also, are there any other fuses? I found this diagram online because the one in the car was missing: http://spoon.org/civic/pics/Interior-Fuse-Panel.jpg (supposedly for a civic, but should also work for this model integra)

Thanks, any help is appreciated.

 

Power door locks are on there own fuse there may be more then one,the power windows have 3 fuses, one main fuse andoneforeach window.

I can get you fuse numbers latter, [after work].

With both the locks and windows not working my guess is the "A" pillar plug or wiring in the door boot, I will get you wire colors to test after work also. 94

 

Awesome! Thank you! I checked a bunch of the fuses, specifically all 5 of the 20A fuses shown on the diagram (on the right hand side), and didn't appear to be blown at all.

 

I found out that the driver's door wiring harness was unplugged at the door jam... So that is hooked up, and the window works. However, the power lock still doesn't work. Rather, I should say that it gets power because I can hear the lock box beneath the door panel clicking, but the actual lock isn't moving. The passenger door still isn't working, but I haven't checked the harness yet. So apparently I'm at least still having a problem with power locks, unless it has to be connected on both sides (driver/passenger)... Not sure. Thanks for any help!

 

Both sides do not need to be connected for one side to work it is a parallel polarity reversing ground at rest system.

To test the door locks you need to do a continuity test on the leads going to the actuators, on the 5wire drivers door actuator it is the yellow/red and white/red leads you need to test.

At rest, [not being locked or unlocked] both leads going to the actuators should test as grounds, [full continuity to chassis ground].

When the switch is rocked for lock or unlock one of the leads will "lose" it's ground and become 12V+, flip the switch the other way and the other lead will lose it's ground and become 12V+.

The easiest way to test the leads is to unplug them from the actuator connect a 12V test light to the leads, ground clip to one of the leads and the probe to the other lead, the test light should light up when the switch is rocked for lock and unlock, if it does the switch, door lock module and associated wiring is good. 94

 

Ok, I will test this and get back to you. Thank you very much for the information and help.

 

I had a 94 Gsr back in the days with door locking problems didn't think much but now I got a 94 sedan wit the same exact locking problems too, but never a window problem

 

I had the same problem, and it took me soooooooooo long to realize that the drivers door ground was loose in the connector that runs through the door.