Hello all,

Longtime member with a friend who's got a problem with a 91 acura integra.

Not sure on the trim yet.

Just curious if there's a quick link to the testing procedure for the sensors in the distributer. or if someone can give a quick walk through.

His boss' station car broke down and the shop is saying replace the whole dist. for 350 in parts... which seems reciculous to me...

It's almost always one of the sensors or the ICM and usually not a physical problem with the dist...

Any help appreciatted.

 

check the ignitor

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...age=1

 

the ignition module and coil can be tested for FREE at your local autozone

 

cars dead at shop... Can't bring to AZ.

Just wondering if anyone had the actual voltages and terminals for the 91 teg.

I'm assuming that the link above has the correct voltages?

Thanks all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

His boss' station car broke down and the shop is saying replace the whole dist. for 350 in parts... which seems reciculous to me... </TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW!! That is rediculous!!
Seeing as you can buy a new one for 150 or cheaper off ebay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cars dead at shop... Can't bring to AZ </TD></TR></TABLE>

dude its 3 bolts to take the distributor off

 

This Should Help You

http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1112

 

Dude how are you going to test a distributer when it's not attached to the car??

AnDy327:
Appreciatte the link to the testing procedure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude how are you going to test a distributer when it's not attached to the car??
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

man let me make it simple for you: unbolt the distributor, take off your cap and rotor. inside there is a coil and an ignition module. the coil provides the spark and is measured in ohms for resistance. if the resistance is not within the tolerable range, you will get no spark.

the module needs a specific machine to test it. the module controls timing/spark/fuel etc. there are about 7 parameters to test it for, and if it fails even one of those it's shot.

that's how you test the distributor when it's not attached to the ENGINE (as it doesn't attach to the car) only real problem you can have with the distributor body itself is either the bearing seizing or the inner allignment portion the meshes with the camshaft rounding ( rare).

you can go drop your $350 but as a "long time member" you should know better