***The Official JRSC Thread***
Going on the basis that runing both I/E Type R cams results in slight loss of boost through the exhaust I think Im going to stick with them instead of the Gsr Combination to keep it safer. I never really inteded to run over the 6psi as it seems there are alot of blown motors around from to much boost without cooling.
We are running windshield washer fluid in my son's car. Its a little aggressive with the aluminum (methanol content), but it works really well for heat transfer. And it washes the windshield well too.
Hey everybody... I just picked up a jrsc kit for my gsr.. Came with RC 440cc injectors and Crome tuned ecu but Before I install it I wAnt to do some maintenance on the motor ( timing belt ) the guy I bought it from sAid it would push 10 lbs of boost but I'm not sure that is true.. I will be running a gsr crank pulley and it has a 4 inch nose pulley ..unless it has a stepper pulley but I'm not sure what those look like.. So any help would be greatly appreciated.. Looking to install within the next month..
if it a stepper there is a size diffrence between each belt drive area
need more info on motor size to work out boost levels
Hey everybody... I just picked up a jrsc kit for my gsr.. Came with RC 440cc injectors and Crome tuned ecu but Before I install it I wAnt to do some maintenance on the motor ( timing belt ) the guy I bought it from sAid it would push 10 lbs of boost but I'm not sure that is true.
Like what type of info.. It's just a bone stock gsr engine..I thought boost levels depended on how fast u spun the blower.. Either by using a bigger crank pulley and/or stepper pulleys or smaller nose pulleys..
it does but engine capacity makes a difference
as you said gsr i wasnt sure as to what engine you had in it
but gsr 1.8 carnk + stock alt + charger 4" will net you 5.8psi
or with stepper 9.1 psi
but there levels aslo depend on other parts of the setup
as psi is a mesure of resistance
as an exsample if that was a 1.6ltr engine with same pulleys it would be
7.9 and 11.2
as you said gsr i wasnt sure as to what engine you had in it
but gsr 1.8 carnk + stock alt + charger 4" will net you 5.8psi
or with stepper 9.1 psi
but there levels aslo depend on other parts of the setup
as psi is a mesure of resistance
as an exsample if that was a 1.6ltr engine with same pulleys it would be
7.9 and 11.2
it does but engine capacity makes a difference
as you said gsr i wasnt sure as to what engine you had in it
but gsr 1.8 carnk + stock alt + charger 4" will net you 5.8psi
or with stepper 9.1 psi
but there levels aslo depend on other parts of the setup
as psi is a mesure of resistance
as an exsample if that was a 1.6ltr engine with same pulleys it would be
7.9 and 11.2
as you said gsr i wasnt sure as to what engine you had in it
but gsr 1.8 carnk + stock alt + charger 4" will net you 5.8psi
or with stepper 9.1 psi
but there levels aslo depend on other parts of the setup
as psi is a mesure of resistance
as an exsample if that was a 1.6ltr engine with same pulleys it would be
7.9 and 11.2
My setup is going to consist of
Jrsc stock boost on gsr engine bone stock
RC 440 injectors
Aem fuel rail and fpr
Hondata Im gasket
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Trying to get a decent header and intake before I tune it because I have stock right now
Going to get it tuned on Crome..
What hp range should I expect??
Hey my friends, I'm new Here!
PS - No one else has ever layed a finger is this car. All work between body and motor have been done by myself. This is a product of my 5 year journey with the car. Blood, sweat and tears. (It also helps if you paint cars for a living, see my other youtube videos)
PS - No one else has ever layed a finger is this car. All work between body and motor have been done by myself. This is a product of my 5 year journey with the car. Blood, sweat and tears. (It also helps if you paint cars for a living, see my other youtube videos)
I fully understand, I just figured that since this topic is so hard to controll like you said, starting a new one and putting key ideas in the first topic so that setups and key points were easy to find that it would help. I've been on HT nearly 10 years, I know this isn't the only source, but like you said I hate to see such a good topic such as this just become a spaghetti bowl of infomation. But if I see points or questions I'll make sure to PM you so you can add it to your site.
Anyone running LHT jrsc with a Skunk2 68mm Throttle body ? how did you run the throttle cable ? what did you do with the throttle positioning sensor? pictures ?
also, upgrading injectors from 450s, what size should I get?
also, upgrading injectors from 450s, what size should I get?
Last edited by jdm_integsr; May 21, 2012 at 02:10 PM.
We are currently running the 70mm Alpha Series TB on my son's LHT JRSC equipped 88 CRX.
We started with the stock 60mm JDM B16A TB, then upgraded to the Skunk2 TB later with the same setup.
We found the shortest Honda throttle cable we could find at Pick N Pull. Sorry, I can't remember what car it was from.
We fabricated a blockoff plate to block off the MAP sensor hole. We also had to block off the FIT valve holes on the bottom of the stock TB. The S2 TB doesn't have a FIT valve.
We fabricated a bracket that mounts to the two mounting bosses in front of the disk that the cable connects to. We attached a short throttle cable bracket to that with a couple of bolts.
Works like a champ.
Here are some photos:











We started with the stock 60mm JDM B16A TB, then upgraded to the Skunk2 TB later with the same setup.
We found the shortest Honda throttle cable we could find at Pick N Pull. Sorry, I can't remember what car it was from.
We fabricated a blockoff plate to block off the MAP sensor hole. We also had to block off the FIT valve holes on the bottom of the stock TB. The S2 TB doesn't have a FIT valve.
We fabricated a bracket that mounts to the two mounting bosses in front of the disk that the cable connects to. We attached a short throttle cable bracket to that with a couple of bolts.
Works like a champ.
Here are some photos:











We didn't do an apples to apples comparison.
We had a stock CRX air box and filter, into an Integra air pipe into the 60mm B16A TB. We replaced that all with an AEM GSR CRX swap CAI and the 70mm TB.
We went from 250hp at the wheels to 262hp.
We had a stock CRX air box and filter, into an Integra air pipe into the 60mm B16A TB. We replaced that all with an AEM GSR CRX swap CAI and the 70mm TB.
We went from 250hp at the wheels to 262hp.
Last edited by MarkOlson; May 21, 2012 at 11:29 PM.
thank you. that narrows it down to either the 332 mm or the 392 mm core. I'm planing on diy the jrsc intercooler as well as an intercooler for a turbo diesel 80 series land cruiser and would like to use the same size core to keep the cost down.
I have a questions about Cruising IAT's.
I think I am experiencing high intake temps during cruise condition. My bypass valve appears to be working properly, but I do not know what its position is at different map values. Below is some info on the system and what I am experiencing -
Powertrain -
B20/vtec
JRSC SC @ 9lbs
Two laminova heat exchangers installed very similar to LHT setup (same thing I think)
IC radiator which an aftermarket mishimotor civic coolant radiator located where civic AC condenser is. Has a fan, and header is heat wrapped and has a heat shield.
The IC coolant temp sensor isnt functional yet, but the radiator stays quite cool to the touch
Cruising -
Vehicle - EG Hatch, 2200lbs
Vspd - 80mph
RPM - 3800 rpm
MAP - ~65kPa
Ambient - 20C
IAT before TB - 25C
IAT in stock manifold location - 70-80C
Vspd - 60mph
RPM - ? rpm - in fifth gear
MAP - ~40kPa
Ambient - 20C
IAT before TB - 25C
IAT in stock manifold location - would drop to 50C
Vspd - Idle, after highway cruise
RPM - 1000 rpm
MAP - ~30kPa
Ambient - 20C
IAT before TB - 25C
IAT in stock manifold location - would drop to 35-40C very quickly
If I unload (decel) the engine on the highway, the manifold IATs drop very quickly.
This weekend at a RallyX, 80-85F (~30C), after a run the manifold IAT would settle down to 60C, but would heat up 80-90C during a 40-45 sec run.
Any suggestions? Do you guys see air temps this high after the blower and/or intercooler?
We are going to put it on the dyno to check bypass valve operation under light load at some point.
Thanks
Burke
I think I am experiencing high intake temps during cruise condition. My bypass valve appears to be working properly, but I do not know what its position is at different map values. Below is some info on the system and what I am experiencing -
Powertrain -
B20/vtec
JRSC SC @ 9lbs
Two laminova heat exchangers installed very similar to LHT setup (same thing I think)
IC radiator which an aftermarket mishimotor civic coolant radiator located where civic AC condenser is. Has a fan, and header is heat wrapped and has a heat shield.
The IC coolant temp sensor isnt functional yet, but the radiator stays quite cool to the touch
Cruising -
Vehicle - EG Hatch, 2200lbs
Vspd - 80mph
RPM - 3800 rpm
MAP - ~65kPa
Ambient - 20C
IAT before TB - 25C
IAT in stock manifold location - 70-80C
Vspd - 60mph
RPM - ? rpm - in fifth gear
MAP - ~40kPa
Ambient - 20C
IAT before TB - 25C
IAT in stock manifold location - would drop to 50C
Vspd - Idle, after highway cruise
RPM - 1000 rpm
MAP - ~30kPa
Ambient - 20C
IAT before TB - 25C
IAT in stock manifold location - would drop to 35-40C very quickly
If I unload (decel) the engine on the highway, the manifold IATs drop very quickly.
This weekend at a RallyX, 80-85F (~30C), after a run the manifold IAT would settle down to 60C, but would heat up 80-90C during a 40-45 sec run.
Any suggestions? Do you guys see air temps this high after the blower and/or intercooler?
We are going to put it on the dyno to check bypass valve operation under light load at some point.
Thanks
Burke
I say you bypass valve is ripped. Maybe not totally dead, but ripped & leaking.
I had the same problem on mine. Temps rise when cruising, but i saw no manifold boost unless I stabbed it.
Because my Bypass leaked, it opened 'just enough' to let the boost out, but not enough to circulate air.
To check, turn your car on to idle and 'pinch' the vacuum line that goes the the bypass. The plunger should move from all the way OPEN to CLOSED. If it doesn't move (or moves only a little) the problem is your bypass.
I had the same problem on mine. Temps rise when cruising, but i saw no manifold boost unless I stabbed it.
Because my Bypass leaked, it opened 'just enough' to let the boost out, but not enough to circulate air.
To check, turn your car on to idle and 'pinch' the vacuum line that goes the the bypass. The plunger should move from all the way OPEN to CLOSED. If it doesn't move (or moves only a little) the problem is your bypass.
Sounds like what my car was doing also. $100 bucks shipped from Moss. My valve was just twitcing. Caused the washer to vibrate. Thought I had a bearing going out.
Last edited by riceburner94si; May 22, 2012 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Add info
I have a jrsc itr manifold for sale....mint condition
Send me a email@ bswinki@hotmail.com and i can send you pics
$250 obo
Send me a email@ bswinki@hotmail.com and i can send you pics
$250 obo
She's about done. Just waiting on custome pulleys. What you guys think?
B16 w/ JRSC @ 8psi (10-11) planned soon)
RC 550 injectors
Hondata s300
CTR tranny w/ LSD
ACT clutch and lightened flywheel
Blox coil overs
ASR subframe brace and 24mm sway bar
Carbon creations hood, fenders, wing, and hatch


B16 w/ JRSC @ 8psi (10-11) planned soon)
RC 550 injectors
Hondata s300
CTR tranny w/ LSD
ACT clutch and lightened flywheel
Blox coil overs
ASR subframe brace and 24mm sway bar
Carbon creations hood, fenders, wing, and hatch


Last edited by riceburner94si; May 29, 2012 at 04:19 AM.




