this kit is a god damn joke, bolt on my ***, half the **** on this kit doesnt fit right or gets in the way of something else. I wish i went with the procharger kit now.

 

anybody interested in a b16 jrsc kit . 1300. plus shipping will include all brackets and bolts . still in my car if any local buyers are interested to test drive . Really dont want to sell but i need the money to repaint my other car .i bought it used a few years back off another ht member cant remember who but i got all new mounting brackets only original one is the alternator bracket . replaced most of the bolts and last year bought a new manifold because old one had a small hairline crack .made 201 hp to the wheels with aem intake dc sports 4to1 header stock cat and 5zigen fireball cat back exhaust .

 

LOL I have been reading your posts... You should of went with some thing else like a procharger so we didn't have to read all the bull **** and mis information you have put out there...

These kits work and fit very well, but you obviously don't read well enough to figure out your instructions just like you cant read the words on the front of the honda-bond tube

 

Ive been working on this car with a certified diesel mechanic, and even he says this is the biggest pile of ****. The instructions JRSC gives you are completely worthless, i cant even find the torque specs for the blower. I finally got it running this morning but now i have a massive boost leak.

 

intake manifold gasket, manifold to SC gasket, bypass valve?

My problem was a massive intake manifold gasket.

 

well i used the password jdm heatshield gasket, so it is larger, but the issue is i cannot get my torque wrench in there now to torque the intake manifold nuts tighter, its definately leaking between the sc and intake and the intake and the head

 

^^nah dude, it's leaking at your homemade gasket. Should have gone with Hondabond

 

turns out it wasnt a vac leak, it was the valve cover was hooked up to the s tube and was sucking oil through the intake system once we figured that mess out, and all the blue smoke cleared, she actually ran right, although i am getting a slight whistle while it is on boost, trying to figure out where exactly that is coming from. If it is the bypass valve i will cry because it is completely inaccessible. Here is a little video, shes boggin like **** when you floor it, a/f is showing it being massively rich for some reason, even though the FMU came straight off the other car. Ignition timing is gona get retarded down to 14 degrees tomorrow as well. I apologize for the smoke, like i said that is all the oil that was in the intake system, it swallowed a good bit over the course of the day. Also, the exhaust is broken, that is not a fart cannon. That should all be getting replaced next month if this can be tuned to run properly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeyWfco7YS0

 

so we sorted out the mess from yesterday, heres my first af log from today.

 

maybe you guys could help out here, im down to about 49psi on the FMU when doing the FMU adjustment, the bogging is starting to go away but im still seeing drops down into the 10.1:1 range for air/fuel upon WOT. The only check engine light i have is the o2 heater code because im using the analog out 1 on the innovate lc1 to simulate the o2 sensor based off of the wideband readings. I do not have an o2 fault code so it is receiving the right signal. Idle im seeing about 13:1 afr, and around town driving on and off throttle im seeing anywhere from 11/12 afr to 16/17 afr depending on where im at on the gas pedal. Trying to wrap my head around why im still so rich given the fact that im almost at stock fuel pressure on the FMU.

 

Stop using an FMU and get Neptune or Hondata.

 

paypal spawne32@comcast.net for however much a neptune costs and ill get right on it, until then, im working within my financial means until i can afford the engine management system in the next few paychecks, id just like to get it semi drivable right now. So if you can assist with that much.

 

Actually I'm quite surprised its as smooth as it is. I give you props for actually using a wideband sensor.

I expect that your running you stock ecu due to your auto transmission correct? Are you also trying to remain obd2 compliance?

The air fuel plot isn't too bad although not the best. Drop your fuel pressure a few more pounds and keep an eye on things. The JRSC FMU is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that adds pressure under boost, probably somewhere near 12:1.

 

Yep, factory ecu, simulated o2 sensor with the innovate, that first graph is the fmu being set to 58psi or so, im down to 49psi, the bogging is much less now, but im still not seeing the afr numbers i was hoping for, im about to go run and do a couple more recordings. Planning on getting a greddy emanage ultimate system in the near future once my wallet permits it.

 

two more fuel maps, FMU tuned down to about 49psi based on what i saw on the guage. WOT runs are still rich as **** on the start but leaning out to in the 11's. Around town #'s are getting leaner but I dont know which to worry about more, friend of mine who understands this alot more said it could be me backing off the gas pedal, or the car is in a shift under a no load condition. Its hard to say really. It seems to lean out when it starts to make boost, although the digital boost gauge is entirely inaccurate.

 

Keep dropping the fuel until your where you want to be, What are you doing with the timing?
Honestly If you can get an AFC cheap that wouldn't be horrible, the emanage is almost as bad and a pain to work with.

Why is it that you cannot switch to OBD1, you never said why.

 

because i already am obd1 lol I havent done nothing with the timing yet, im at 16 degrees BTDC right now. Car has only be on the road two days now so im still trying to figure out my way around the tuning process.

 

If your OBD-1, why not skip the emanage and use crome until you can afford better

 

crome will work with an automatic transmission? also, the lower i get with the FMU pressure, the leaner im getting on part throttle when i start to hit boost area of around 3 to 4k, at 45psi on the FMU im actually starting to notice it run bad when it hits those lean #'s, which tells me that it is actually leaning out and its not a false #

 

It looks as if crome does not support AUTO's (from what I can find) where about everyone else does (Ectune/Neptune).

You can find old school AFC's on eBay for $25 +shipping, an affordable short term solution that will work.

45 is too lean 49 is too rich sounds like 47 may be your sweet spot for now.

 

How good is the ectune vs the greddy system? What kind of advantages am I looking at? Im always open for options.

 

Well my Custom Laminova cored SOHC Cam kit worked out better than I thought

Bone stock 16y8, SOHC Head and block.

ARP headstuds, Crower Stage two NA cam.

Old T1R Prototype header 4-2-1

2.25 inch exhaust. Spoon Chambered Muffler out

Makes about 8.5 to 9 PSI.

Tuned on s300, Street tune by Tom Sewell.

Dyno Tuned at Evolution Dyna Pro Hub Dyno? in Vancouver B.C.

It made more power when the ECT's were lower. at around 175 ECT it Put down 224 HP

With the temps around 206F It put down 212 HP and 160 Torque.

Im preety pumed I dont know of any SOHC m45 Blower that has gone over 180 HP with out NOS. I think the Cam and the Laminova cores really helped. The IAT"S didnt go over 140F the whole tunning session.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ol9Iy8WY640

 

So i just bought a kit and came with the Jackson racing Meth/water injection. Was wondering if anyone had their instructions on installing it or someone thats running one? Its part number 989-950. Little red motor

 

ECTUNE all the way.

 

shane those are great numbers. Have you thought about going with the M62 or are you going to stay with the M45?