do u need a ek b-series tranny bracket mount
to drop a b18c in?

or can use the stock ek d-series tranny bracket?

 

Only the TOP tranny mount from the SOHC engine/trans can be reused on a B-series tranny.

You'll need an EK b-series rear engine "T" bracket but you can reuse your SOHC rear engine (rubber) mount when dropping in a B-series engine.

 

I was shocked when I discover this also, I researched and found what I need to do for the alternator, then I decided to remove the aternator the test to see if the d series plug would work, I found a 3 pin plug instead of a 4, I started to disassemble the alternator to see if I could still swap internals, it did not work. but something tells me to see if the alternator will mount up to the b series motor, guess what it fits the b.
the car is a 99 German spec hatch with a 1.4l none vtec d14 motor. I was surprised that the d series alternator fits.

my only concern or worry is: the 99 harness has a 8 pin Distributor plug with 8 wires. my obd1 distributor has 10 pin plug with 9 wires,
the extra wire is the tach signal, can I tap this into the tach ouput on the shock tower?

 

I'm swapping a 97 gsr into my 1999 civic ex. I'm having some trouble with the dizzy wiring issue. My stock dizzy has 8 wires, whereas my b series dizzy has 9 wires. I've been trying to read up on it, but i'm still a little confused as to what to do.

Is it easier to change the plug on the EWH side or the dizzy side (do i change the plug with 8 wires or 9 wires)?

What is the extra wire on the b series dizzy thats not on the d series?

 

I recently failed my emissions because of code p0171 in my EM1.
b18Cr with a p2t ecu that i normally run for emissions.
Well, without doing the proper research, i bought a 00-01 USDM P73.
Ive read that the immobilizer can be bypassed, removed, etc. But i cant find any info on how to do it.
Katman, do you know anything about this procedure?

 

even though I haven't done it yet and still in the research mode, here is what my conclusion is on the part for my car OBD2B car with OBD1 engine, get a 8 pin connector splice a OBD1 distributor harness on the 8 pin connector, the the extra wire that is left over from the obd1 dizzy harness, tap that into the tach output, in my case I plan to get a plug that goes into the CYP sensor plug and isolate the rpm wire and put it in that since I won't be using the CYP sensor. there is my plug and play.

in my head it seems simple, but don't know if my description is clear.

 

lol sorry but can anyone dumb that down a little? rudebwoy you lost me

 

My problem is dealing with a sohc. I installed an obd1 d15b vtec into a 00 civic dx. I took the intake manifold off the original dx and installed it. I am using obd2 dizzy,injectors and ecu. My problem is I get fuel and spark but doesnt start. Seems like timing is not right. Timing at the crank is good. But, The dizzy does not line up to the bolt holes on the head, and I have a crank angle sensor hanging cause this motor does not have it by the crank. Do I need to change the dizzy? And what do I do bout the sensor that's not there. Will that make it somewhat misfire?

 

I just finished making one, some reason my pics are not available yet on image shack when they are I will post them.
1. first thing I did, I found a distributor from a 2000 civic, I so happen to have a bad one in my junk box. (note there are other plugs on a civic that will fit the 2000 distributor plug so no need to hack up a distributor)


2. I cut off the distributor plugs from a OBD1 civic harness


3. next I plug the obd1 10 pin harness into the obd2b distributor plug that I cut off the obd2b distributor.


4. to make wiring simple, I loop each wire one at a time into each other with the plugs still connected to each other. the blackyellow wire from the obd2b plug is left over.


5. then on the 2 pin connector of the obd1 distributor harness connect the remaining black/yellow wire of the obd2b distributor plug to the black/yellor thick wire of the obd1 harness.

6. remainding wire off the obd1 distributor harness (blue) will be tapped into the RPM/TACH blue wire of the shock tower.
simple took me 10 minutes to cut solder and schrink tube it.

finished product

NOTE: the obd1 distributor big plug is a direct fit to the Obd2b distributor, so you can make this adapter from a junk obd1 harness

 

hey there katman,

first your write up not confusing at all (for my car at least) but i have a question about it.
okay so this question might have been answered already and sorry if it was :-/.

i currently have a m/t 94 acura integra that just got wrecked but the motor and trans are good ::
i just bought a 96 integra with a blown timing belt (irrelevant) con being its automatic. we obviously want to swap it to manual but i just need to know what i'll need if i want to keep the car obd2...since the 94 is obd1...what all is interchangeable and what all would i have to get my hands on?

thank you!

 

99-00 SOHC civic's use a smaller OBD1 style dizzy plug, whereas all 96-01 OBD2 integra/B-series engines use a bigger dizzy plug, same kind of dizzy plug that all 96-98 SOHC civic's use.

All you need to do is convert your 99 EX's dizzy plug (EWH side) to the 97 GSR dizzy plug by color matching the wires. Being that your SOHC dizzy is missing 1 wire, don't worry, the car will run and your tach will work. Ignore the fact 1 dizzy wire is missing altogether.

removing the IMM is an inside secret
also, you will have a constant check engine light once its removed and this will fail emissions testing obviously.
I have an aftermarket immobilizer chip I sell that basically replaces teh imm chip so you can use the ecu in any car without the check engine light problem.

hit me up if you're interested.

I'm assuming you're just going to use the OBD1 b-series long block and mate it to the auto trans??

In order to make an OBD1 B-series engine compatible with an OBD2 ecu, you need swap these OBD2 parts over to the OBD1 engine:
Dizzy / injectors + fuel rail w/EGR sensor/ alternator / IAT sensor (if different) / oil pump w/integrated CKF sensor along w/timing belt gear parts + timing belt covers (or perform CKF wiring trick) / retain the 96 integra exhaust manifold + catalytic to run dual 02 sensors / retain smog equipment from the 96 integra.

CKF wiring trick info can be found here:
http://ff-squad.com/wp/?page_id=12

Only perform this wiring trick if you do not want to swap the OBD2 oil pump over.

I believe that should be it..

Happy New Year's btw!

 

well no i'm manual swapping it...so the motor and trans out of my 94 are going to go right into the 96...

 

ok, so that extra wire is for the tach but my tach will still work?

 

yes your tach will still work.

 

Now i also found out that my knock sensors don't match up either, any suggestions?

 

I just installed a d15b sohc vtec into a 00 civic dx. I converted to obd -1 using a jumper harness, obd 1 distributor, and obd-1 injectors. I followed the wiring diagram on this thread on how to depin and repin the distributor. I also used the stock dx intake manifold on the motor because initially it was going to stay obd 2.

My problem: It starts up and idles. But I throw a code for Idle air control valve and crank position sensor. What do i need to do to the iacv to make it work. (I'm using the obdII manifold and sensor). I followed the diagram on the thread for the distributor but I had 2 wires that did not match the harness. One I know is for the tach. (Blue). But then I had another one left over. What did I mix up to throw the code?

Thanks ahead of time for the help. I really appreciate this.

 

Ok, the reason you have an IACV code is because the OBD1 ecu is looking for a 2-wire IACV. Your OBD2 DX intake manifold uses a 3-wire IACV (which is built into the throttlebody) and is completely incompatible with the OBD1 ecu.
My suggestion to you is to run the OBD1 intake manifold w/OBD1 IACV converting your IACV wiring to 2-wire specifications.

As for the crank positioning problem, i'm pretty sure you're getting this code because of the mix up of the 2 wires that didn't match up. Try swapping the 2 wires around and see if that clears the code. If it does, you don't need to worry about the extra dizzy wire, just cap it off or tape it back and not worry about it. Its unnecessary as long as you dont get a check light.

 

Thanks very much for the information. My last question is how to I convert the iacv wiring to 2 wires? I might be blind cause i didnt see it in the thread and the links on the first page just showed me some legos poundin sum butt

 

no problem.
just follow the 3 to 2-wire conversion information in my diagram here:

 

Thank you so much katman. I really appreciate you takin out the time to answer these questions. THanks

 

no problem!

 

Ive been reading through a few pages here and and I have a few questions of my own. I think I have everything down pat but I also feel that I need some help also.

I have a 1996 civic DX coupe 5speed and i'm swapping an obd1 gsr into it.

Things I will need

1. 99-2000 rear tranny bracket
2. 96-97 del sol a/c bracket(will it work with my d series compressor?)
3.99-2000 front tranny bracket
4.99-2000 dual post engine block mount
5. Linkage from a 94-2000 Integra
6. Will 94-2000 Integra axles work with my dx hubs?

Electrical woes.

Are there any issues with swapping the EX 5spd harness to a 5spd DX that I need to know about or overlooked?

Since i'm planning on using the obd1 JDM gsr ecu, is there anything I need to know about getting an obd2 ->obd1 jumper harness seeing as I will be using the EX harness in a DX chassis?

If I read this correctly I can just buy an obd2 B-series vtec dizzy and it will plug right up to my vehicles EX harness?

Also, I am able to purchase an obd2 b-series alternator and plug it into my EX harness without any electrical work?


Will I have any CKP wiring woes seeing as I'm using the OBD1 engine and ecu in an obd2 chassis?

The IAC wont be needed in and engine being run with an obd1 ecu would it?


Sorry if some of the questions seem nubbish, I'm a pharm tech that just got off of a 9 hour shift and i'm dead tired..my brain seems to be stuck on medicine. Any help would be appreciated, thanks guys.


Also one last thing, what would be the difference between a full fledged obd2 gsr engine vs. an obd1 engine with obd2 adaptations such as the new dizzy/injector harness/alternator?

 

 

k i got a odb1 b16 in my 99 civic where do i run the wire for the VTPS to run a odb 1 ecu

 

also the crank sensor wire trick does it really work and i wont have a cel for it