K20/K24 Build- Start to Finish!
Think you can build a high-power K20 in your garage? Take a look at this video first.
Ever wondered what it would take to build your dream K-series swap? Well, Diymike on YouTube is about to show us exactly that. For those paying attention, this is not your average K20/K24 build. This build is a high horsepower, no corners cut build. This means 1000+ HP out of a tiny 4-cylinder with the help of some boost. The secret to getting this build to come together is more obvious than you thought. A lot of time and a lot of money. Host Michael Luangrath said it best himself at the beginning of the video, “months and months of saving, months and months of accumulating all these parts”. Let’s see what exactly is going into this crazy high HP build.
Obviously, when planning on making anywhere near the 1000 HP range, most if not all of the internal engine components will have to be changed. Luangrath’s build is no different. He has a K20 Type R head (RSP), the highest flowing of all the different K-series heads. To match, he has an LA sleeved block for extra rigidity at higher boost levels. Luangrath actually starts off the build with the head, installing the valve seals and valves. Thanks to the specialty tool, the springs and retainers are also installed.
Moving on to the bottom end, the piston rings are installed and gapped appropriately with another special tool. Luangrath gives some advice at this point. If you want to build an engine, it’s always best to “measure then measure again.” The last thing you want is thousands and thousands of dollars going down the drain because of a simple oversight or error. That would truly be heartbreaking. Plastigauge is then used to measure the rod bearing clearances and, with that, the crank is installed. Now it’s time for the rods and pistons.
After a healthy amount of more measuring and checking, the CP friction-coated pistons and Manley rods are installed. Wrapping up the end of the build, the head and block are finally mated with an OE head gasket and ARP headstuds. With the valvetrain ready, the Skunk 2 cams, timing cover, race manifold, and electric water pump are all added to the build. A baffled oil pan, a bigger throttle body and the valve cover is then added before the centerpiece of the engine goes on. This piece being the RMS turbo manifold with a Borg-Warner EFR9280 turbo manifold. We have to say that turbo setup looks amazing attached to a K20. What do you guys think of this build?
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