The official how-to remove my abs thread...
08-22-2005, 08:16 AM
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The official how-to remove my abs thread...
Hey guys, I had trouble finding anything on this topic when I needed it so hopefully it will be of some help to someone else. I unfortunately don’t have all of the pictures I need right now as I left kind of abruptly for college 900miles away from my car. However, I have the principal stuff and will explain the ending steps. To begin with, you want to remove the actual abs “modulator” There are two or three 12mm bolts holding this on, I had to bend the bottom canister out of the way to reach one of the(big hands).
Obviously in order to completely take the system out you have to get rid of your old brake lines. You don’t have to get rid of both front and rear, I didn’t, but the fronts do have to go, tin snips work well for this.
Once your modulator and brake lines are removed, you have to swap out your master cylinder, brake booster, and proportioning valve, all to non-abs parts. I used the parts from a 5th gen accord, same as prelude s. Removing the brake master and the proportioning valve are easy, just 10mm and 12mm bolts. The brake booster isn’t too hard, but it’s in a tight spot. There are 4 10mm bolts that have to come out from inside the car above the pedal assembly, then you have to remove the cotter pin and pull out the holding pin that attaches the booster to the brake pedal itself.
Now I went around the entire car and removed every abs sensor from behind the wheels and tucked the old plugs inside the fender-wells or where ever they fit best, just so you can’t see that ugly orange color anymore.
The last thing I wanted to remove was the abs computer. It was hard for me to find at first because like I said nobody has a write-up on this, but its right behind the panel next to the rear passenger’s seat. The seat bottom has to come out, then there are three or so panel screws that have to come out, then lift the panel back, and remove the computer and stupid protective metal pieces.
Here is our pile of crap: brake lines, 25-30lb abs unit(didn’t weigh exactly), old brake booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve, abs computer, and sensor plugs.
Once everything has been removed, clean and inspect the parts that are about to go in. I got everything from my local junkyard so I inspected it before I took it off, clean everything with carb cleaner, and painted my new brake booster just to clean it up a little.
Install all of your new parts by first bolting the brake booster, then master cylinder, then proportioning valve. You will notice how close the rear brake lines are to fitting, it just takes some simple orienting of the proportioning valve. I decided to stick with all hard lines as opposed to ss braided lines, they don’t seem to hold pressure as well, but they are much simpler to install. I took pieces of the old cut up brake line and contoured my new one to fit from the left side through the hole, back behind and below with your other lines such as fuel and clutch lines, and back up to the proportioning valve. This line was 60” with a 3/16”diameter and metric fittings on both sides, it fit perfectly after two tries, lol. The same for the right side, which was 35-40”, same diameter and fittings. (unfortunately don’t have any pictures of that right now, but I will get some) Then run new lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve both were 12” lines, same diameter and fittings.
After everything has been cut, removed, bent, and rebolted, you are ready to fill your master cylinder with brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Enjoy the lost weight, clutter, and pain. Have fun and feel free to add anything if necessary, I’m sure I forgot something. I will have more pics as soon as I can get home!
Modified by maxvtec7500 at 12:56 PM 8/22/2005
Modified by maxvtec7500 at 12:58 PM 8/22/2005
Obviously in order to completely take the system out you have to get rid of your old brake lines. You don’t have to get rid of both front and rear, I didn’t, but the fronts do have to go, tin snips work well for this.
Once your modulator and brake lines are removed, you have to swap out your master cylinder, brake booster, and proportioning valve, all to non-abs parts. I used the parts from a 5th gen accord, same as prelude s. Removing the brake master and the proportioning valve are easy, just 10mm and 12mm bolts. The brake booster isn’t too hard, but it’s in a tight spot. There are 4 10mm bolts that have to come out from inside the car above the pedal assembly, then you have to remove the cotter pin and pull out the holding pin that attaches the booster to the brake pedal itself.
Now I went around the entire car and removed every abs sensor from behind the wheels and tucked the old plugs inside the fender-wells or where ever they fit best, just so you can’t see that ugly orange color anymore.
The last thing I wanted to remove was the abs computer. It was hard for me to find at first because like I said nobody has a write-up on this, but its right behind the panel next to the rear passenger’s seat. The seat bottom has to come out, then there are three or so panel screws that have to come out, then lift the panel back, and remove the computer and stupid protective metal pieces.
Here is our pile of crap: brake lines, 25-30lb abs unit(didn’t weigh exactly), old brake booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve, abs computer, and sensor plugs.
Once everything has been removed, clean and inspect the parts that are about to go in. I got everything from my local junkyard so I inspected it before I took it off, clean everything with carb cleaner, and painted my new brake booster just to clean it up a little.
Install all of your new parts by first bolting the brake booster, then master cylinder, then proportioning valve. You will notice how close the rear brake lines are to fitting, it just takes some simple orienting of the proportioning valve. I decided to stick with all hard lines as opposed to ss braided lines, they don’t seem to hold pressure as well, but they are much simpler to install. I took pieces of the old cut up brake line and contoured my new one to fit from the left side through the hole, back behind and below with your other lines such as fuel and clutch lines, and back up to the proportioning valve. This line was 60” with a 3/16”diameter and metric fittings on both sides, it fit perfectly after two tries, lol. The same for the right side, which was 35-40”, same diameter and fittings. (unfortunately don’t have any pictures of that right now, but I will get some) Then run new lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve both were 12” lines, same diameter and fittings.
After everything has been cut, removed, bent, and rebolted, you are ready to fill your master cylinder with brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Enjoy the lost weight, clutter, and pain. Have fun and feel free to add anything if necessary, I’m sure I forgot something. I will have more pics as soon as I can get home!
Modified by maxvtec7500 at 12:56 PM 8/22/2005
Modified by maxvtec7500 at 12:58 PM 8/22/2005
08-22-2005, 08:27 AM
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Re: (NaptownKing)
god damn those pictures are huge! I will resize'em guys. Sorry
EDIT: much better.
Let me know what you think!
Modified by maxvtec7500 at 12:59 PM 8/22/2005
EDIT: much better.
Let me know what you think!
Modified by maxvtec7500 at 12:59 PM 8/22/2005
09-02-2005, 04:50 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (JiGGaPiNNo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JiGGaPiNNo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there any difference in braking now and are there any draw backs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, I honestly haven't driven the car yet because it is still waiting for its built motor, college kinda interupted me. However, if you have ever driven an accord or something its very similar, except only a little bit better due to the larger diameter brakes and disc brakes in the back, however some accords have that too. Also, the proportioning valve is different, I have heard that the proportioning valves out of dc2 teg's are something to look at, they give a little bit different, perhaps better, brake distribution.
Actually, I honestly haven't driven the car yet because it is still waiting for its built motor, college kinda interupted me. However, if you have ever driven an accord or something its very similar, except only a little bit better due to the larger diameter brakes and disc brakes in the back, however some accords have that too. Also, the proportioning valve is different, I have heard that the proportioning valves out of dc2 teg's are something to look at, they give a little bit different, perhaps better, brake distribution.
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09-02-2005, 06:50 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (luder94si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luder94si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or you could try using an adjustable brake proportioning valve 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's certainly another option, however I had an accessible junkyard with the right price
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's certainly another option, however I had an accessible junkyard with the right price
09-02-2005, 10:33 AM
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Re: (LudemanDan)
so in your opinion the prelude does better with out the abs . cause i just got done doing the 5lug conversion and i didnt want to spend the 250 per sensor thats required to get the rear abs sensors to work. but i just dont want to take out the abs and have some god awful braking results you know
09-02-2005, 11:38 AM
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Re: (JiGGaPiNNo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JiGGaPiNNo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so in your opinion the prelude does better with out the abs . cause i just got done doing the 5lug conversion and i didnt want to spend the 250 per sensor thats required to get the rear abs sensors to work. but i just dont want to take out the abs and have some god awful braking results you know </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, definitely not worth $250 a sensor. And LudemanDan is right, autoxing with abs is hindering, it decides to engage at the most random of times, I'm much more happy now that its gone, plus all that weight is out, that sucker is HEAVY!
Yea, definitely not worth $250 a sensor. And LudemanDan is right, autoxing with abs is hindering, it decides to engage at the most random of times, I'm much more happy now that its gone, plus all that weight is out, that sucker is HEAVY!
09-02-2005, 12:42 PM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (maxvtec7500)
Very nice write-up. I will eventually do this when I swap out my current engine for yet another...
BTW for anyone with a 4th gen, it is simple to disable the ABS. All you have to do is drive around for 30 seconds with the emergency brake switch turned on (Brake not actually applied, but just enough to get the dashboard light to switch on). After 30 seconds the ABS light will come on and the actual ABS unit will be deactivated. Of course you could probably pull a fuse or something too but I have never had a problem either way.
Pirate
BTW for anyone with a 4th gen, it is simple to disable the ABS. All you have to do is drive around for 30 seconds with the emergency brake switch turned on (Brake not actually applied, but just enough to get the dashboard light to switch on). After 30 seconds the ABS light will come on and the actual ABS unit will be deactivated. Of course you could probably pull a fuse or something too but I have never had a problem either way.
Pirate
09-02-2005, 04:46 PM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (PirateMcFred)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice write-up. I will eventually do this when I swap out my current engine for yet another...
BTW for anyone with a 4th gen, it is simple to disable the ABS. All you have to do is drive around for 30 seconds with the emergency brake switch turned on (Brake not actually applied, but just enough to get the dashboard light to switch on). After 30 seconds the ABS light will come on and the actual ABS unit will be deactivated. Of course you could probably pull a fuse or something too but I have never had a problem either way.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats very true, its easy to disable, but its so damn big that I had to get rid of it Anyways, I'm glad this is helping some people, I will get more pictures of the final product when I get back home.
BTW for anyone with a 4th gen, it is simple to disable the ABS. All you have to do is drive around for 30 seconds with the emergency brake switch turned on (Brake not actually applied, but just enough to get the dashboard light to switch on). After 30 seconds the ABS light will come on and the actual ABS unit will be deactivated. Of course you could probably pull a fuse or something too but I have never had a problem either way.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats very true, its easy to disable, but its so damn big that I had to get rid of it
Anyways, I'm glad this is helping some people, I will get more pictures of the final product when I get back home.
09-03-2005, 01:14 PM
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Re: (soundbomber)
yes you will notice that the spindles have a different bolt pattern for the sensor so you either have to machine the spindle or get the sensors......but if you have done the conversion yet keep in mind it could get priceyyyyyyyy.... i used all new parts from honda and i spent around 1500 on it and i didnt even get the rear sensorsyet thats why i think im just gonna pull the abs system all together.
09-04-2005, 04:09 PM
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wow thats coo ive done it to my teg...only thing i did different was kept the stock brake master cylinder...ran it to a rs-40/40 prop valve...and called it a day...brakes very well and i def dont miss my abs...
09-05-2005, 04:23 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (maxvtec7500)
why again is it that you didn't want abs? lose 20 pounds and you can keep it on there and never notice.
09-05-2005, 07:25 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (dc2integra)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why again is it that you didn't want abs? lose 20 pounds and you can keep it on there and never notice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say more like 35-40lbs. But yes, much more controled braking.
I'd say more like 35-40lbs. But yes, much more controled braking.
09-06-2005, 09:24 PM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (maxvtec7500)
is it possible just to use the prelude s model parts in order to eliminate the abs just a question
09-06-2005, 10:17 PM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (PirateMcFred)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW for anyone with a 4th gen, it is simple to disable the ABS. All you have to do is drive around for 30 seconds with the emergency brake switch turned on (Brake not actually applied, but just enough to get the dashboard light to switch on). After 30 seconds the ABS light will come on and the actual ABS unit will be deactivated. Of course you could probably pull a fuse or something too but I have never had a problem either way.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you make it work again? Just restart the car, as if it were a computer?
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you make it work again? Just restart the car, as if it were a computer?
09-07-2005, 03:51 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (JiGGaPiNNo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JiGGaPiNNo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it possible just to use the prelude s model parts in order to eliminate the abs just a question</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they're the same as the accord parts.
Yes, they're the same as the accord parts.
09-07-2005, 04:30 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (LudemanDan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you make it work again? Just restart the car, as if it were a computer?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes...or you can go under the hood and pull the abs fuse...and when you want it back..turn the car off and replace the fuse...
yes...or you can go under the hood and pull the abs fuse...and when you want it back..turn the car off and replace the fuse...
09-07-2005, 10:35 AM
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Re: The official how-to remove my abs thread... (maxvtec7500)
why did you have to remove the booster and master cylinder? When I did this in my accord I left them, I would think you could do the same with the prelude.