Mr Vu

Hey everyone!!

I'm just wondering if people can tell me about the experiances with add a Apexi VAFC V-AFC v-tec controler to their car. I have a 1999 integra type R. I plan just to do simple mods, eg. Filter, cold air, exhuast, headers. Will this apexi device give me more power?????? will I benifit from it???? BTW its the older one. Not the VAFC2.

Can someone also tell me the differences in them?? not the technical ones, eg. 100rpm as opposed to 500rpm adjustments, and 8 point adjustments, as opposed to the 12 point adjustment on the new one. I mean can someone tell me what they mean????

Ausmith

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Vu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey everyone!!

I'm just wondering if people can tell me about the experiances with add a Apexi VAFC V-AFC v-tec controler to their car. I have a 1999 integra type R. I plan just to do simple mods, eg. Filter, cold air, exhuast, headers. Will this apexi device give me more power?????? will I benifit from it???? BTW its the older one. Not the VAFC2.

Can someone also tell me the differences in them?? not the technical ones, eg. 100rpm as opposed to 500rpm adjustments, and 8 point adjustments, as opposed to the 12 point adjustment on the new one. I mean can someone tell me what they mean????</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would suggest a Hondata S100 for $245 and a P28 ECU w/ a conversion harness. The results will be much better assuming you take it to a prefessional for tuning. You might also look into Chrome or Uberdata.

If you do decide to get a VAFC make sure you invest in a Boomslang plug-n-play harness so you don't have to hack into your stock wiring.

Good luck!

Spunkster

I second the Hondata idea

s300's on all 3 of my cars.

powersteer

its screws up ur car more than helping it. please keep it away from an ITR.

JjuuN R

Hondata f0r t3h w1n

nholmes

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powersteer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its screws up ur car more than helping it. please keep it away from an ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have any data to back that up or are you talking out of your ***?

jetydosa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powersteer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its screws up ur car more than helping it. please keep it away from an ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would disagree with that but yes a programmable ECU will net you better gains than simple VTEC controller.

Might want to check with your closest reputable tuner and see what they prefer to tune with and go from there.

genetsang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you have any data to back that up or are you talking out of your ***?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


ahmen!

heck, i still have the vafc v.1. and it is still doing noticable gains with a/f and power. As per Ralphy at DRT "with simple mods, a vafc will do the job. unless you car cracking 250whp, you do not need anything else."

ill listen to Ralphy. hes been tuning my car for the past 4 years. what do i know? He seems to know what hes doing. car still runs strong and havent blown up yet haha

itr1244

i have vafc but it's untuned right now.

if you have A/F gauge you can play with your fule and make it run right.

but if you are not planning to play around with fule settings. i'd go with re-programmable ecu as well

genetsang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have vafc but it's untuned right now.

if you have A/F gauge you can play with your fule and make it run right.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dunno. playing around and experimenting with the a/f might cause more harm than good. inexperienced "weekend tuners" have a good possibility in running the car too lean/rich... and im pretty sure you know the outcome in that. i suggest get the vafc and leave it up to the reputable tuner to do their magic

VTEXTC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Vu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey everyone!!

I'm just wondering if people can tell me about the experiances with add a Apexi VAFC V-AFC v-tec controler to their car. I have a 1999 integra type R. I plan just to do simple mods, eg. Filter, cold air, exhuast, headers. Will this apexi device give me more power?????? will I benifit from it???? BTW its the older one. Not the VAFC2.

Can someone also tell me the differences in them?? not the technical ones, eg. 100rpm as opposed to 500rpm adjustments, and 8 point adjustments, as opposed to the 12 point adjustment on the new one. I mean can someone tell me what they mean????</TD></TR></TABLE>

The VAFC is fine. Especially with the basic bolt on mods its a dam good investment.
I would also suggest a set of adjustable cam gears and adj. FPR to go with it. When you have the car tuned to the mods, they can also dial in the factory cams a bit to gain a little more power.

The VAFC2 is just a little flasher.. and can be a little finer tuned do to the finer incriments. In other words, instead of only being able to tune the a/f at every 500rpm, you can now do it at every 100rpm, put simply.

Iv have a VAFC2 in my ITR for two years.. and its still untuned But thats because i dont want to waste $ re-tuning it after every mod. Currently going in is a set of TODA camgears, Skunk2 68mm TB and an AEM (or SARD) FPR. So after this, a tune would be a good idea.

Pompiuses

A VAFC needs dyno time to be adjusted. That costs money. You cannot alter timing with a vafc, so you can only change AF and set vtec.

I sold my vafc and got a chipped ECU instead. It's cheaper as you won't need dyno time, and gains are better as well if you buy from a decent tuner.

Euro98ITR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pompiuses &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A VAFC needs dyno time to be adjusted. That costs money. You cannot alter timing with a vafc, so you can only change AF and set vtec.

I sold my vafc and got a chipped ECU instead. It's cheaper as you won't need dyno time, and gains are better as well if you buy from a decent tuner.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont agree with you ditching a VAFC and getting a chipped ECU instead. I was running bolt ons like I/H/E and a chipped ECU, my motor was running really rich. By the help of VAFC2 I tuned it and gained about 9WHP.

Pompiuses

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Euro98ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my motor was running really rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wrote from a "decent tuner".

Running rich may not be a bad thing anyway if you have very advanced timing. Did you know what timing you were running? If not I wouldn't mess with AF if I were you.

I got two programs for my chipped ECU. One for street and one for track. The track progam runs pig rich because timing is advanced compared to the street program. Keeps the engine from knocking. Did you think of that?

But a vafc will require dyno time anyway. Dyno time is expensive. Rather than buying a chipped ECU and a vafc I'd rather buy a standalone EMS lik Hondata and get it tuned perfectly the first time.

When it comes to bang for the buck a chipped ECU is way better than a VAFC.

powersteer

b4 u get hostile, read below:

"Remember that VAFC work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.

Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with a VAFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with a VAFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used.

But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a VAFC, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a VAFC, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: VAFC suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable."

http://d-series.org/forums/sho...nt=14
"I know this is gonna start a flame war but most obd 2 ecus are extremely smart and self correct. Customjunky put everything in your car and drive it, the ecu's have logic and they self learn. Thats why puting a afc on a ob2 car is useless, after a few trips the ecu recalibrates. The ecu just adjusts the long term fuel trim(LFT) and smooths out the rest with the short term fuel trim(SFT). Ive have been on the dyno with a NA OB2 afc car and a snapon on scanner, tuned the afc, then made 2 pulls without changing anything the ecu changed the LFT and recalibrated. We then diconected the afc and made 3pulls and car made 2 more hp after the ecu recalibrated. Ppl underestimate a stock ecu they are quite powerful."

basically, if u cant afford a good standalone + tuner + dyno, keep ur stock ecu. if u r unfortunately boosted, then please get ur budget right.


Modified by powersteer at 2:36 AM 3/14/2006

nightrider

with your slight modifications, hondata or even the VAFC seem overkill. it's nice to have the extra money to dump for more the most hp, but wouldn't a kenji ecu be a better choice for the best bang for the buck?

white rocket

What are your plans for your car? Planning on internals, high comp, etc? Or sticking with bolt-ons?

Either way, I would recommend Hondata IF the tuner you plan to use knows how to tune it. I gained about 12whp after my car was tuned and that was before the Toda header AND I'm stock on the inside . Also my car runs great; a little rich, but otherwise safe.

I think the most important thing to note here is to use what your tuner is skilled and experienced with. A good tune with a VAFC is WAY better and safer than a shitty tune with Hondata.

Hope that made sense. It's early here

Bradstard

If you want to make your car faster you should invest in the one thing that needs the most improvemnt; the person behind the wheel. Take the money you would spend on mods and do some HPDE's. Best bang for the buck.

KayOs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightrider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but wouldn't a kenji ecu be a better choice for the best bang for the buck?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would be a great platform on which to start IMO.

iperez

My humble opinion:

1. Your proposed mods don't quite warrant the use of a VAFC but if you're like all of us, your mods will not stop with I/H/E.

2. Some kind of programmable setup (VAFC, Hondata, etc.) is always a good thing when tuning. However, like everyone else is saying, you're better off investing in a programmable setup like Hondata. You'll spend a little more now but you'll reap benefits in the long term.

In my case, I had a JUN ECU factory programmed for my JUN-3 cams. I was able to gain 6hp piggy-backing the JUN with the VAFC. As of now, I've ditched the JUN ECU and am installing a Hondata setup. The rice-boy in me is keeping the VAFC installed and untuned just for the cool light show

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

my brother's 98 itr

-stock internals
-comptech header, comptech cold air intake, and comptech full catback

before vafc2, it dyno @ 164 whp, with vafc2 and tuning, it dyno @ 171 whp

Kdric_

Hey I need help with tuning my D17a1(2001) is there any thing I can do to the ecu to tune it I'm planning on building twin d17s and I want to go turbo and I know I'm gonna have to tune and i cant find anything that can do to the ecu can somebody tell me where to start I have done a little bit of research and I don't know if I can run Kpro or Hondata but I did hear something about Apexi V-AFCii somewhere
"VAFC2 is the only one that will work on our 7th gen cars running D17 engines and vtec" and I'm also thinking about putting a D16y8 Vtec Cam and Assembly instead of rewiring regular "Eco Vtec"
So All in All I wanna know if i can connect a d17a1 ecu to a computer to tune it or if I can tune the ecu at all