dc2vu

Sorry to create another thread, but I've searched and I couldn't find anything useful. OK so to start with this is an H22 swap into an EG obviously. The EG previously had a GSR motor with everything working like stock including IABs (or so I beleived). So when the GSR was in the car VTEC engauged as usual and around6000 RPM it would get louder and continually pull to redline with a stock P72 ecu. Now with no modifications to the chassis harness, the JDM H22 was swapped in using a 94-95 GSR wiring harness. I spent a lot of time trying to make sure all the plugs and wires were correct on the harness itself. Finally, the H22 is started and ran...and....BOO! Low end torque is not ANYTHING as I expected (top end pulls pretty hard). It actually really resembles the GSR that was previously in it. After all the effort of the swap and having trouble getting it running, it feels slow. So I decide to call my buddy with a JDM H22 Prelude over and I drove his car; his car feels like it has far more torque than mine. So after some thinking i figure my IAB's aren't working after looking at some threads on here. So I decide to play with it a bit today. I swap ecu's using a P28 with H22 chip (Tuned from my friends prelude) and a JDM p13, ziptie the IAB's closed, check wiring, and I finally look at the A17 pin on the ecu plugs...and theres nothing there! So I'm planning on wiring that back up tomorrow, but I really don't think that could be the issue because my friends prelude isnt wired up for secondaries either and his car runs great. Anybody have any suggestions?

Also with wiring up the secondaries, where is the pin for the secondary butterflies on the cannon plugs off of the gsr harness?! I found a Pink/Blue wire on the driver side shock tower but that wire runs under the dash on the driver side. Is that the right wire? I want to run the wires like factory so I spent some time trying to figure out where that freaking wire goes...The car runs now so I'm not stressing as much but it still pisses me off that I put so much time and effort into getting it done right and its not coming together like it should.

Thanks once again HT


Modified by dc2vu at 9:33 PM 11/21/2006

dc2vu

Anybody?!

SolAssassin

i dunno bro... i just got everything pieced together myself... the iab box, the little filter that goes on the iab box, the connector, and the check valve (all separately, i scavenged for it all). my cars runs pretty good without it, but i get a little bit of backfire when i hit the gas without it. the connector should have a pink wire and a black and yellow wire. if it's missing in A17 then chances are that it was never there (or at least never working). i plan on doing mine this weekend myself. you should gain about 8 ft lbs of torque with them hooked up (because without them you have lost that power to begin with). you can run good without the iab's, but you'll see a noticeable difference once you hit 4th gear, trust me. personally, i don't even know where the hell this box is supposed to go. do you have any pics of where this thing mounts? i'll post a pic later of my fully assembled iab assembly out of the car

HondaPartsHero

I believe the top wire on the plug (where the clip is) should be the switched ground on OBD1 and should be pink. The other wire goes to a switched 12V wire (like on the IACV or EVAP purge). I'm not sure which wire it is on the shock tower plug but you can find it if you get a voltmeter and test continuity between the pink wire and the shock tower plug. Let us know if you find it and which wire it is and while you're at it if possible do the same for the knock sensor because people on here are always trying to find out which wire on the shock tower it is.

dc2vu

knock sensor is on the Passenger shock tower ive already wired that up once. Its color matched Red/Blue.

dc2vu

Today with a continuity tester in hand, I found that the secondary plug DOES run to the driver side shock tower cannon plug. So I wired that direct to the ecu's A17 pin and my secondaries DO work. I started the car and it went to a closed position; I revved the engine up and it opened up. I then went on a drive to see if there was more low end torque, there was really none to speak of (maybe barely but it could have just been in my head).

dc2vu

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SolAssassin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dunno bro... i just got everything pieced together myself... the iab box, the little filter that goes on the iab box, the connector, and the check valve (all separately, i scavenged for it all). my cars runs pretty good without it, but i get a little bit of backfire when i hit the gas without it. the connector should have a pink wire and a black and yellow wire. if it's missing in A17 then chances are that it was never there (or at least never working). i plan on doing mine this weekend myself. you should gain about 8 ft lbs of torque with them hooked up (because without them you have lost that power to begin with). you can run good without the iab's, but you'll see a noticeable difference once you hit 4th gear, trust me. personally, i don't even know where the hell this box is supposed to go. do you have any pics of where this thing mounts? i'll post a pic later of my fully assembled iab assembly out of the car </TD></TR></TABLE>

The box is mounted up underneath the intake manifold. The harness has a section that comes out for the knock sensor and the IAB box. The box is located closer to the driverside of the manifold. If it helps, I had to move one of the heater core lines a bit to reach the IAB plug.

ESP-net

Bring the car down to me and I will see what I can do with your secondary problem...give me a call...numbers on the site...

unhooked will leave secondaries open...
what I do is run the secondaries to vtec...so when vtec hits you get the sudden push...and you get good gas mileage as well...made 200 whp and 204 whp with this setup on 2 identical jdm h22s...i/h/e p28 crome tuned...our custom header...

bring the EACV solenoid located on the Fuel Rail and a matching common 2 wire plug...

dc2vu

What dyno do you guys use down there? My boss told me to do the exact same thing with the secondaries opening up with vtec. I only wired up the secondaries to see if that would help my low end torque. I'm looking more for a smooth powerband rather than the "sudden push" you describe. Thanks for the offer. If I can't figure things out and am at a dead end I'll contact you.

P.S. We use a mustang dyno at our shop. Stock JDM H22 swapped Accords and Integras both put down around 165 on our dyno.

ESP-net

intec racing in kent is where I got them dyno'ed...

dc2vu

My buddy with the Prelude up there made 178 on their dyno. What kind of torque figures did your H22's make? Post a dynochart maybe?

dc2vu

Also did a compression test today. 230-240 across all 4 cyl. Any other suggestions of why my bottom end sucks expletive?

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2vu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also did a compression test today. 230-240 across all 4 cyl. Any other suggestions of why my bottom end sucks expletive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ypu have a dyno sheet of the car?

dc2vu

Of this one? No, not yet. I'm waiting until I get my axle fixed before I run it on the dyno.

ESP-net

check the sheets on my site...204 whp and 166 and 200 whp and 168 at intec

I did a how to a while back on hooking the secondaries up to vtec...check out p28 and h22a under search in the prelude forum...

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the sheets on my site...204 whp and 166 and 200 whp and 168 at intec

I did a how to a while back on hooking the secondaries up to vtec...check out p28 and h22a under search in the prelude forum...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can add hardware to a p28 to have working IABs. You want IABs to be closed a little bit after vtec.

fastwanabe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can add hardware to a p28 to have working IABs. You want IABs to be closed a little bit after vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>Closed after VTEC? The IAB should be closed till about 4800 after that they should be wide open. IAB restrict air flow @ low RPM only.

dc2vu

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the sheets on my site...204 whp and 166 and 200 whp and 168 at intec

I did a how to a while back on hooking the secondaries up to vtec...check out p28 and h22a under search in the prelude forum...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are pretty good numbers! I'll personally be on a Mustang Dyno so my numbers will show up lower. One day maybe I'll swing up by Intec and pay for a dyno run just to see what I make after everything is worked out. If I'm gonna be running a P72 ecu, with secondaries wired up, can't I just program it so that vtec and secondaries engauge at the same time? I'll be running Hondata S200. Any other ideas, mechanically, of why my engine doesn't run like it should? Maybe I'm just expecting too much from the H22. My buddy with the Prelude that I mentioned in a previous post made 178HP and I think 152Ft/lbs. Less than you, obviously, and his feels great.


Modified by dc2vu at 10:39 PM 11/27/2006

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Closed after VTEC? The IAB should be closed till about 4800 after that they should be wide open. IAB restrict air flow @ low RPM only.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true. Most people think that small(er) runners will hurt performance, but it is the not true. You want velocity up so that there is pressure on the back side of the intake valve. Bigger is not always better. Thats why dual intakes work so well.

Dynos and SAE books have proven it too

ESP-net

Turbogixxer is right...

Honda made a good intake manifold from the factory with the H22A good design...for stock to mild NA builds the stock h22a intake manifold in it's stock configuration seems to work best...if you mod it powerband may change as well as throttle response lots of factors...

fastwanabe

I have never heard or seen the IAB close up in VTEC or @ high RPM. Not that Ive paid very close attention but this just seems ridiculous to cut off some of the intake air when its most needed.... weird. But hey Im no engineer so its there for a reason. Thanks for that info gixxer.

dc2vu

the GSR's secondaries remain closed until around 6000RPM.

dc2vu

Waiting to get my axle fixed still and get on the dyno. My p72 is being chipped with Hondata S200 too. I'll update with new things as they arise.

dc2vu

I did a total reworking of my resistor set up today. It feels much smoother and quite a bit torquier on bottom end. I got the axle in so I'm just waiting until after finals to hop on the dyno. I'll keep everyone posted!

fastwanabe

was it wired improperly?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2vu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a total reworking of my resistor set up today. It feels much smoother and quite a bit torquier on bottom end. I got the axle in so I'm just waiting until after finals to hop on the dyno. I'll keep everyone posted!</TD></TR></TABLE>