91ed9

m

91ed9

sorry for the shitty pictures iphone, not the best lighting

E-Rok

still looks like you are going too slow. 309 filler is very colorful.

91jdmhatchback

whats with the gap on the fit up? thin tubing like that should be fit up tight with no gaps.

91ed9

whats with the gap on the fit up? thin tubing like that should be fit up tight with no gaps.

--lol that was jsut cut, the part that is welded has no gap

still looks like you are going too slow. 309 filler is very colorful.

--if i move faster, i can not push the puddle i get it when both pieces of metal melting but it will not fuse together, it blows a hole (even when addiung filler ) i have to stop then fill the hole in

i just dont understand why im not getting any color in my welds and not good penetration if im holding the puddle to long

E-Rok

I'd try to fuse a piece together, get the hang of that and then try adding filler.

91jdmhatchback

someone needs to post a video showing weld speed. no one can explain it very good at all.

also what is your torch technique when doing a weld on the thing tubing?

For example i do this.

)))))))) and i dab at the top of the puddle and drag down. then forward and and up and dab again. also i go between about 1/8-1/4" wide on my bead width.

i use .045 also.

Bailhatch

Weld speed changes drasticly depending on what you're doing. You could fuse thin tube like that going .75-1"/sec with no problem. You could also do it much slower and still get a nice weld.

On thin tube, there is no need to weave the torch at all. I just steadily move my torch forward @ almost 90* to the surface and dab my filler every 1/8" or so if I'm using .045". I do a lot of buttwelding 19-20G mild steel too and I do it the same way but with .035" filler usually.

91ed9, try being a little more agressive with the heat and filler at first to get the bead going. As soon as you see both sides of the work get 'wet' dap the filler and add a little heat to get it going. Don't sit there and warm it up though. You should have both sides ready for filler within a second and be in a good comfortable positon to keep going once you start. And back off the pedal after the first couple dabs...

91ed9

thanks for the input guys more is welcome please.....



my torch i have at a slight angle almost 90* like bail said .. now i try and mostly fuse my piping together mainly bc when i dab i am not sure of the corret time which to dab

)))))))) and i dab at the top of the puddle and drag down. then forward and and up and dab again. also i go between about 1/8-1/4" wide on my bead width.


now do you dab and then push the puddle or do you push the puddle then dab for e.g

push dab push dab push dab
or
dab push dab push dab push

or is it more like

push push push (when i need to add ) dab push push push


somethign like that or am i just thinking into adding filler to much haha

91jdmhatchback

your thinking into it a little to much. i change how i weld all the time. but for you the basics help you start out.

Pretty much add filler, then move the torch down, then back up at the same time moving forward. then repeat.

now you can go just straight across, but i have found this to cause the arc to become unstable. and can make for inconsistent welds. maybe it is me.

91ed9

jdm so your saying somethign like this?

i will try it and see how it works for me

excuse the "paint" lol

Bailhatch

On thin stuff you don't need to go side to side with the torch. If you can't just move the torch at one even speed while you dab filler, try moving the torch front to back and as you move the torch back, touch the filler to the front of the puddle. Then as you bring the torch forward agian, you run the filler over and prepare for another dab. So both hands are sort of doing the same movement along the direction of the weld.

91ed9

Then as you bring the torch forward agian, you run the filler over and prepare for another dab. So both hands are sort of doing the same movement along the direction of the weld.

thank you that clears some stuff up.

also i installed my Pyrex Cup Kit from HTP America inc. and now when i am tring to run a bead i get a bright flash like my tungsted is getting conaminated but its not (or is it) everything is set up the same except for the different collet body and glass cup. thought it was my helmet not charging right.

then i put on my standard collet body and ceramic cup and the ark is just fine?

anyone know what this could be, i even tried lowering / rasing the shield gas cfms same result it was actually pritty bad flashes gave me a head ache for hours lol

91ed9

picked up a miller elite helmet (Wicked) this helmet is pritty sick so light and durable

i need to pick up some more metal to practice some more ive just been makeing some roses and what not out of sheet metal.. pritty cool stuff