Need help with welding a differential, pics inside...
#1
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Need help with welding a differential, pics inside...
I also posted this on a 240sx forum since its for my '95 240, but I know you guys have some info too and I will get it faster here.
I was gonna weld it up today but I thought Id take some pics and make sure Im doing it right. So do I weld the spider gears only to each other, or to the casing too? My friend said not to weld anything to the case but its hard not to with the little holes on this bitch. Theres 4 holes that show through to the gears, I can barely get in there to weld but I was thinking about shoving a peice of metal in there and welding it all together, and what about those little square openings on the left, should I weld anything there too???? Heres the pics:
PS- sorry my camera sucks
I was gonna weld it up today but I thought Id take some pics and make sure Im doing it right. So do I weld the spider gears only to each other, or to the casing too? My friend said not to weld anything to the case but its hard not to with the little holes on this bitch. Theres 4 holes that show through to the gears, I can barely get in there to weld but I was thinking about shoving a peice of metal in there and welding it all together, and what about those little square openings on the left, should I weld anything there too???? Heres the pics:
PS- sorry my camera sucks
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Re: Need help with welding a differential, pics inside... (TurboCoop)
Don't weld anything to the caseing is what I've always gone by, unless you don't want to use that rear end ever again. Also, weld in small incraments to avoid heating up the bearings and seals too much.
#3
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Re: Need help with welding a differential, pics inside... (LSEGHATCH)
That's a tight one.... I'm used to seeing Honda diffs that have HUGE open areas so you can weld.
Just do the gears to eachother and you should be fine. And make sure to clean it thouroughly before and after welding. The oil on the gears to start, and the spatter at the end.
Just do the gears to eachother and you should be fine. And make sure to clean it thouroughly before and after welding. The oil on the gears to start, and the spatter at the end.
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Re: Need help with welding a differential, pics inside... (Bakeoff)
Yeah I cleaned the **** out of it, thats why its rusting a little. Is it OK to weld it to the casing- cause I dont plan on reusing this one again? This is just temporary for fun, I have a friend who bought a nismo LSD and hes gonna give me his VLSD out of his SE 240sx when hes ready...
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Re: Need help with welding a differential, pics inside... (TurboCoop)
Those are like the SIDEKICK rear diffs. You could pull the assembly out and pull the ring gear off which will split the casing open then u can pull the spider gear assembly.
I would not weld it to the casing as you want a little bit of play when u put the axles back in and allow for some miss alighnment.
I would take the whole thing apart clean it out with brake clean put the spider gears back in and the KING PIN then threw the small holes tack weld it in the few opening u have then take it out and weld the spider gears only not the king pin. Then slap it back in the housing and put the king pin in and ur set.
I would not weld it to the casing as you want a little bit of play when u put the axles back in and allow for some miss alighnment.
I would take the whole thing apart clean it out with brake clean put the spider gears back in and the KING PIN then threw the small holes tack weld it in the few opening u have then take it out and weld the spider gears only not the king pin. Then slap it back in the housing and put the king pin in and ur set.
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Re: Need help with welding a differential, pics inside... (JDMCRX)
Wheres the king pin??? Ive never heard of it, then again Ive never har a RWD car either
#7
Re: Need help with welding a differential, pics inside... (TurboCoop)
.. turn one side of the output (where the axles bolt to). if the other side turns the same way then that's a vlsd... sell that and pick up a open diff for like 30 bucks.
I only mention this because I welded my 89 240's diff and it was all open like everyone else was just saying.
I only mention this because I welded my 89 240's diff and it was all open like everyone else was just saying.
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#11
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Re: (gunslinger)
i see.
i fully understand why you wouldnt want an open diff, but why not just go with an LSD? arnt nissan LSd rear assemblies a dime a dozen?
i fully understand why you wouldnt want an open diff, but why not just go with an LSD? arnt nissan LSd rear assemblies a dime a dozen?
#12
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Re: (gunslinger)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gunslinger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cory it is the cheap way of making it a locking diff you just wont be able to turn without issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also, have you welded anything yet? how about welding a sign that says "bret is a ******"
also, have you welded anything yet? how about welding a sign that says "bret is a ******"
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Just take the diff out and put a few nice gob's of weld on the spider, make sure they will not move, if they can, it will just break the welds. Any other questions just PM me. But definatly take it out of the case, it is VERY simple.
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Re: (Blind-Fashion)
I did some more research and found out that it is actually a v-lsd, I thought they only came in the SE 240's but I was wrong... sorry
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alpalwal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.. turn one side of the output (where the axles bolt to). if the other side turns the same way then that's a vlsd</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^This isnt true cause I tried it and when I turned it the other side turned the opposite way, its different when youre just slowly turning it by hand instead of actually driving the car with the diff in and all of the torque on the fluid that controls the LSD in it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alpalwal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.. turn one side of the output (where the axles bolt to). if the other side turns the same way then that's a vlsd</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^This isnt true cause I tried it and when I turned it the other side turned the opposite way, its different when youre just slowly turning it by hand instead of actually driving the car with the diff in and all of the torque on the fluid that controls the LSD in it
#17
you all need to recheck your fact before post misinformation. i have done many vlsd swaps and IT IS a VLSD. that IS NOT an open diff, the key thing to look for is the spider gears is wide exposed, remember that old and very worn out VLSD looses its grip and works like an open diff.
this is a welded open diff.
see the the spider gears are welded!
this is a welded open diff.
see the the spider gears are welded!
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if you want to check for vlsd on a nissan rear diff, check on the housing located on the side for a yellow tag, it will say vlsd, that should be a r200 rear diff, and if it is worn add shims, it makes it almost a full 1.5 way, a friend added shims to his 300zx diff and its awsome until winter hit.
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Re: (Running925)
pull the assembly apart and just weld every tooth on the spider gears... if you dont care about ever using it as an open the weld the siper gears to the case as well
the diff in my 240 just has the spider gears welded up and its withstood 450whp and 275 rear tires and i beat the expletive out of it
the diff in my 240 just has the spider gears welded up and its withstood 450whp and 275 rear tires and i beat the expletive out of it
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Re: (wantboost)
Spend the $75 for a WeldLokd. I've welded 3 R200 differentials, it is tricky to get it right. You can not get any splatter anywhere. One drop on the ring gear and it will sieze. Not just when your welding either, if a little piece of splatter drops out while your driving, it will sieze. It is hard to avoid splatter too, since the thing has been emersed in gear lube for the last 12 years, it's almost impossable to get clean.
And that is definitly a VLSD.
As for driving impressions (I daily drove my S13 with a welded), I found the welded diff to be more predictable than a VLSD, 2-way clutch type, or open. It chirped a bit when turning tight, but anything outside of a parking lot it drove normal. On backroads you need to get used to it. If you drive it like an open it will push, but if you always stay on the throttle a bit it will slip the inside tire and turn pretty well. Overall I felt more confident and faster with it welded.
And that is definitly a VLSD.
As for driving impressions (I daily drove my S13 with a welded), I found the welded diff to be more predictable than a VLSD, 2-way clutch type, or open. It chirped a bit when turning tight, but anything outside of a parking lot it drove normal. On backroads you need to get used to it. If you drive it like an open it will push, but if you always stay on the throttle a bit it will slip the inside tire and turn pretty well. Overall I felt more confident and faster with it welded.
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Re: (atutt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by atutt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If yours is a 95 240.... it should come stock with a VLSD.... as from 91 on all 240's came stock with a VLSD.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, no. I've pulled out quite a few open diff's from 91+ 240sx's.
eh, no. I've pulled out quite a few open diff's from 91+ 240sx's.