my first manifold, criticism welcome
01-29-2008, 10:49 PM
#26
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lynnwood, WA, US
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it is great for the first one you did. congratson taking up the project yourself
thats a monster turbo for an sr20 my man. i have the same one on a 1.9L gsr and i am revving mine to just about 10K. my bud with an sr20 seems to have problems with his .82ar GT35R falling out of boost in the shift but you may have some better luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good cams, solid lash lifters and you can take sr's to the sky. the valvetrain isnt perfect but you can work with it and make it pretty solid.
Marcus
thats a monster turbo for an sr20 my man. i have the same one on a 1.9L gsr and i am revving mine to just about 10K. my bud with an sr20 seems to have problems with his .82ar GT35R falling out of boost in the shift but you may have some better luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good cams, solid lash lifters and you can take sr's to the sky. the valvetrain isnt perfect but you can work with it and make it pretty solid.
Marcus
01-29-2008, 11:53 PM
#27
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Olympia, wa, usa
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it is great for the first one you did. congratson taking up the project yourself
thats a monster turbo for an sr20 my man. i have the same one on a 1.9L gsr and i am revving mine to just about 10K. my bud with an sr20 seems to have problems with his .82ar GT35R falling out of boost in the shift but you may have some better luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had that exact same problem with my sr when i was running a a truck turbo.. ended up just double clutching through all the gears. and drifting it was a pain in the ***, you cant feather it out. just clutch kick it over and over again.
nice manifold though.. im digging it
thats a monster turbo for an sr20 my man. i have the same one on a 1.9L gsr and i am revving mine to just about 10K. my bud with an sr20 seems to have problems with his .82ar GT35R falling out of boost in the shift but you may have some better luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had that exact same problem with my sr when i was running a a truck turbo.. ended up just double clutching through all the gears. and drifting it was a pain in the ***, you cant feather it out. just clutch kick it over and over again.
nice manifold though.. im digging it
02-03-2008, 04:09 PM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (140sx)
well i got started on some welding, here is how she is coming along, this is just the root pass.
i have a couple questions though...
before i do a second pass with filler i have to wire brush the haz correct?
and another thing, how do you guys go about welding a runner that consists of say 4 or 5 joints?
do you keep them all tacked together and do on joint at a time, or do you do it piece by piece... like break it all apart, weld one joint, tack the next one on and weld it, etc.
i am having a little bit of trouble with my backpurge, there is a little bit of sugaring in some spots and i think it is because i kept the entire runner tacked together. how do you close up the pipe to purge out the atmosphere when there is 4-5 joints only tacked together? it's kind of hard to move a tin foilball through the pipe to act as a barrier, so how do you guys backpurge/weld up runners with multiple joints.
sorry for rambling.
i have a couple questions though...
before i do a second pass with filler i have to wire brush the haz correct?
and another thing, how do you guys go about welding a runner that consists of say 4 or 5 joints?
do you keep them all tacked together and do on joint at a time, or do you do it piece by piece... like break it all apart, weld one joint, tack the next one on and weld it, etc.
i am having a little bit of trouble with my backpurge, there is a little bit of sugaring in some spots and i think it is because i kept the entire runner tacked together. how do you close up the pipe to purge out the atmosphere when there is 4-5 joints only tacked together? it's kind of hard to move a tin foilball through the pipe to act as a barrier, so how do you guys backpurge/weld up runners with multiple joints.
sorry for rambling.
02-03-2008, 08:39 PM
#29
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (RC000E)
hey don't worry so much about the gaps.... just as long as they aren't like america to china type deal 
with the ones you have on this manifold you can easily weld it up and go over it with another layer of weld. this will help clean up the first pass since covering gap welds don't look to pleasing and strenght is comprimised. with a simple second layer weld you'll be just fine
check out some of our welds. http://www.beeyondeng.com
good luck
with the ones you have on this manifold you can easily weld it up and go over it with another layer of weld. this will help clean up the first pass since covering gap welds don't look to pleasing and strenght is comprimised. with a simple second layer weld you'll be just fine check out some of our welds. http://www.beeyondeng.com
good luck
02-03-2008, 08:43 PM
#30
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (robbbby)
nice... you are pretty good!!!
depends on your manifold... we sometimes break the collector and weld them as the runners go on.. sometimes we can weld the the collector completely first again depending on type of manifold
depends on your manifold... we sometimes break the collector and weld them as the runners go on.. sometimes we can weld the the collector completely first again depending on type of manifold
02-03-2008, 08:57 PM
#31
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
Posts: 4,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (GTibunny16v)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTibunny16v »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">God damn, you could have used a lot less piping if you used a jig and spent some time thinking about routing the runners. What car/engine is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's an S13 89-94 240sx with an sr20 I believe.
That's an S13 89-94 240sx with an sr20 I believe.
02-04-2008, 12:00 PM
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (k24em2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It looks like you fused the root pass..... 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did, please tell me i wasn't supposed?
i read multiple posts/people on here say fusion for the root pass and a second with filler on sch10.
what is the proper way, two passes, both with filler?
if so, that's shitty, at least i only did one runner.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i did, please tell me i wasn't supposed?
i read multiple posts/people on here say fusion for the root pass and a second with filler on sch10.
what is the proper way, two passes, both with filler?
if so, that's shitty, at least i only did one runner.
02-04-2008, 12:28 PM
#35
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lincoln, Ne, USA
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (robbbby)
There are very few welds that you don't use filler for....this is not one of them. I single pass with 1/16" filler on sch 10 piping...there is absolutely no need to do a 2 pass weld on material that thin. However, in order to do a single pass, you need to set up the weld joint correctly. There should be a slight gap in between the pipes, (.035 wire works well for setting this up) and you need to backpurge the back.
02-04-2008, 01:25 PM
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (k24em2)
i'm not a welder so i don't know the proper methods and procedures, i just go by what others recommend. alot of people on this board say you should do two passes on sch10, at least that is what i've read.
i have 3 other runners to weld up so i have lots of practicing and different techniques to try out. i'm going to give your method for single passing a shot next. thanks for the advice.
i have 3 other runners to weld up so i have lots of practicing and different techniques to try out. i'm going to give your method for single passing a shot next. thanks for the advice.
02-04-2008, 02:55 PM
#37
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lincoln, Ne, USA
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (robbbby)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not a welder so i don't know the proper methods and procedures, i just go by what others recommend. alot of people on this board say you should do two passes on sch10, at least that is what i've read.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of people on here don't know what they are doing.
A lot of people on here don't know what they are doing.
02-04-2008, 04:34 PM
#38
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somewhere in, CT
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (k24em2)
I also run a .035 gap and do a single pass with 1/16" rod. Ive never had an issue with any of my manifolds.
With runners that long though, Just wrap the entire thing in aluminum foil and just leave what you're welding exposed. That way it should create enough of a restriction so you wont have any sugaring.
Also, again with a runner that long. Its probably going to warp so weld one joint and let it cool completely before moving on. If you dont, it will warp like crazy and your alignment to the collector will be ****.
With runners that long though, Just wrap the entire thing in aluminum foil and just leave what you're welding exposed. That way it should create enough of a restriction so you wont have any sugaring.
Also, again with a runner that long. Its probably going to warp so weld one joint and let it cool completely before moving on. If you dont, it will warp like crazy and your alignment to the collector will be ****.
02-05-2008, 02:38 AM
#39
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (GTibunny16v)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTibunny16v »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also run a .035 gap and do a single pass with 1/16" rod. Ive never had an issue with any of my manifolds.
With runners that long though, Just wrap the entire thing in aluminum foil and just leave what you're welding exposed. That way it should create enough of a restriction so you wont have any sugaring.
Also, again with a runner that long. Its probably going to warp so weld one joint and let it cool completely before moving on. If you dont, it will warp like crazy and your alignment to the collector will be ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome, thanks alot for the advice, i appreciate it.
With runners that long though, Just wrap the entire thing in aluminum foil and just leave what you're welding exposed. That way it should create enough of a restriction so you wont have any sugaring.
Also, again with a runner that long. Its probably going to warp so weld one joint and let it cool completely before moving on. If you dont, it will warp like crazy and your alignment to the collector will be ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome, thanks alot for the advice, i appreciate it.
02-05-2008, 07:44 AM
#40
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: ca
Posts: 1,632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (robbbby)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Modified by robbbby at 4:39 PM 1/27/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
i spy a thermlarc
Modified by robbbby at 4:39 PM 1/27/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
i spy a thermlarc
02-05-2008, 09:59 PM
#41
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (robbbby)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i got started on some welding, here is how she is coming along, this is just the root pass.
i have a couple questions though...
before i do a second pass with filler i have to wire brush the haz correct?
and another thing, how do you guys go about welding a runner that consists of say 4 or 5 joints?
do you keep them all tacked together and do on joint at a time, or do you do it piece by piece... like break it all apart, weld one joint, tack the next one on and weld it, etc.
i am having a little bit of trouble with my backpurge, there is a little bit of sugaring in some spots and i think it is because i kept the entire runner tacked together. how do you close up the pipe to purge out the atmosphere when there is 4-5 joints only tacked together? it's kind of hard to move a tin foilball through the pipe to act as a barrier, so how do you guys backpurge/weld up runners with multiple joints.
sorry for rambling.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For doing the purge you need a vent hole in the end about 1/16" so the oxygen can escape from the pipe and let the argon fill it up. also I see on one weld you have alot of starts and stops , I would go back over them for a third pass no filler this time just so you have one stoping point in your weld, but other then that keep up the good work
i have a couple questions though...
before i do a second pass with filler i have to wire brush the haz correct?
and another thing, how do you guys go about welding a runner that consists of say 4 or 5 joints?
do you keep them all tacked together and do on joint at a time, or do you do it piece by piece... like break it all apart, weld one joint, tack the next one on and weld it, etc.
i am having a little bit of trouble with my backpurge, there is a little bit of sugaring in some spots and i think it is because i kept the entire runner tacked together. how do you close up the pipe to purge out the atmosphere when there is 4-5 joints only tacked together? it's kind of hard to move a tin foilball through the pipe to act as a barrier, so how do you guys backpurge/weld up runners with multiple joints.
sorry for rambling.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For doing the purge you need a vent hole in the end about 1/16" so the oxygen can escape from the pipe and let the argon fill it up. also I see on one weld you have alot of starts and stops , I would go back over them for a third pass no filler this time just so you have one stoping point in your weld, but other then that keep up the good work
02-06-2008, 02:40 AM
#42
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: I'm everywhere Focker
Posts: 5,463
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (GTibunny16v)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTibunny16v »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, again with a runner that long. Its probably going to warp so weld one joint and let it cool completely before moving on. If you dont, it will warp like crazy and your alignment to the collector will be ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinkin when I saw that pic. I can't imagine that runner is still gonna fit up right. That stainless moves so damn easy, I can't even imagine welding one joint on the table like that and havin it fit. I weld all my runners locked in a jig so they can't move anywhere.
Also, again with a runner that long. Its probably going to warp so weld one joint and let it cool completely before moving on. If you dont, it will warp like crazy and your alignment to the collector will be ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinkin when I saw that pic. I can't imagine that runner is still gonna fit up right. That stainless moves so damn easy, I can't even imagine welding one joint on the table like that and havin it fit. I weld all my runners locked in a jig so they can't move anywhere.
02-06-2008, 06:31 AM
#43
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: abbotsford, bc, canada
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's what I was thinkin when I saw that pic. I can't imagine that runner is still gonna fit up right. That stainless moves so damn easy, I can't even imagine welding one joint on the table like that and havin it fit. I weld all my runners locked in a jig so they can't move anywhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, you could run into issues when fitting it all together, big issues.
That's what I was thinkin when I saw that pic. I can't imagine that runner is still gonna fit up right. That stainless moves so damn easy, I can't even imagine welding one joint on the table like that and havin it fit. I weld all my runners locked in a jig so they can't move anywhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, you could run into issues when fitting it all together, big issues.
02-06-2008, 07:30 AM
#44
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lincoln, Ne, USA
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (B18C1CYA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For doing the purge you need a vent hole in the end about 1/16" so the oxygen can escape from the pipe and let the argon fill it up. also I see on one weld you have alot of starts and stops , I would go back over them for a third pass no filler this time just so you have one stoping point in your weld, but other then that keep up the good work </TD></TR></TABLE>
Going over the weld again without filler increases the likelihood of cracking.
For doing the purge you need a vent hole in the end about 1/16" so the oxygen can escape from the pipe and let the argon fill it up. also I see on one weld you have alot of starts and stops , I would go back over them for a third pass no filler this time just so you have one stoping point in your weld, but other then that keep up the good work
</TD></TR></TABLE>Going over the weld again without filler increases the likelihood of cracking.
02-06-2008, 02:24 PM
#45
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's what I was thinkin when I saw that pic. I can't imagine that runner is still gonna fit up right. That stainless moves so damn easy, I can't even imagine welding one joint on the table like that and havin it fit. I weld all my runners locked in a jig so they can't move anywhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you guys are right, it did move a little. i have no idea what a real jig looks like to hold everything in place while welding though. i thought just tacking the entire runner together and then welding was the way but i should have figured with stainless that it would move, i forgot how much stainless warps with heat.
That's what I was thinkin when I saw that pic. I can't imagine that runner is still gonna fit up right. That stainless moves so damn easy, I can't even imagine welding one joint on the table like that and havin it fit. I weld all my runners locked in a jig so they can't move anywhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you guys are right, it did move a little. i have no idea what a real jig looks like to hold everything in place while welding though. i thought just tacking the entire runner together and then welding was the way but i should have figured with stainless that it would move, i forgot how much stainless warps with heat.
02-10-2008, 11:34 AM
#50
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: south shore of Montreal, Quebec,Canada, Canada
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: my first manifold, criticism welcome (RC000E)
what does the jig looks like? i'm curious, since i plan to build a manifold in the near futur
do you "tack" your pieces of pipe on it?
do you "tack" your pieces of pipe on it?