boostedb20z

iTrader: (1)

heres the start of it i will keep up to date on this where going to work on it this weekend. this is a s&w 10point kit but i had some other roll bars from a firends cage that i used to do the x hoop

914Racer

I guess its OK, but what is it with the NHRA boys. Why do they continue to load tubes in bending and shear. The way you built that x brace is all kinda wrong from a strength stand point. If you flip the car on the roof, the SINGLE tube will collapse and then your main hoop will shorten, then your neck will follow shortly. You would be much better off if you moved those down bars as far out as possible and attach them to the shock towers, then connect the X to the shock towers.

Tubes in bending are the worst thing you can do to a cage.

redboost10

is there a reason everyone connects the rear down bars to the shock towers? whats wrong with going straight to the floor, basically a little further back (i am not talking about where the spare tire sits)?

DEIVIONCRX

Yea ive never quite got the reason everybody ties them to the single bar across the towers.

speeddave

i am wondering this as well... why not run the down bars to the floor on either side of the spare tire well?

on another note keep us updated with progress, usually these pre-bent cage build threads go down the crapper, so thanks for being brave, haha. i'm doing my S&W kit soon so any info or tips/tricks are awesome.

boostedb20z

iTrader: (1)

ok the cross bar going shock tower to shock tower is fine look at all the big dogs they do that. the reason for going shock tower to shock tower is that its a stronger place then going to the thin floor back there cuz if the car rolled it could push though the rear floor will update tonight guys.

boostedb20z

iTrader: (1)

speeddave the only thing we had to do to this kit was stretch the hoop cuz they make them fit with full insides so we tac it and pulled it over and tac it but make sure its even b4 u tac it in. and this is a s&w 10point kit i think it was right at 400$ shipped


here a pic of ryans car (rota92) on here shock tower to shock tower

redboost10

yeah thats exactly how we do all our cages.

speeddave

thanks for the info, i test fitted my main hoop and since i'm keeping my interior it's a suprisingly tight fit. also on the sides of the spare tire well is where the main unibody supports are underneath.

that pic of Rota's car is different than what you have done, the down bars go to the shock towers, not the bar connecting the shock towers.

i think a better option for you would be to move those down bars as close to the shock towers as possible along that bar you already have there and tie them into the shock towers somehow. or run a large gusset from that crossbar to the shock tower underneath it.

speeddave

i know i have seen other cages done like yours so here's a pic of one done by nrg tech. i've noticed that a few of their recent cages the rear bars go to the floor and the d bars are different but who knows.

essex

I would move the rear l l out to the edge of the tube then back it up at the bottom with a short notched tube welded to the plate and floor

boostedb20z

iTrader: (1)

see where the hoop bends i didnt want the bar on the bend http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/IMG_0460.jpg

914Racer

The reason they run the tubs to the shock towers is because that is where the loads are fed into the chassis. So by bracing the shock towers you stiffen the chassis.

Dead headed tubes, tubes mounted in bending, and tubes mounted in shear are bad. Always mount tubes in compression and tension. They are strongest that way.

Notice the picture below. All tubes are reinforced.

essex

You should run it as close to the bend as possible to support the bend and then run your diagnol into that joint to creat a node all the bars going to one point
http://www.l-con.net/gallery.cfm?c=Ae86





you doing a good job though either way



.

boostedb20z

iTrader: (1)

thanks that cage is crazy lolol i am working with a premade kit so its alittle hard to make it like that. but im going to see how nhra looks at it and see what they say if its wrong then im going full custom. update on sunday

essex

Oh I was just pointing out how placing it close to the bend is ok. I meant to say the only part you need of the premade for the back is the main hoop the rest is just straight sections which you can buy from your metal supplier if you mess up You don't need such crazy cage of course. good work

speeddave

really i think all you need to do is move the down bars to the bend on the main hoop and closer to the shock tower on that lower bar, then it should be good to go.

Mr.E.G.

I hate to be a dick here, but wtf man? Why is it that so many people start to build a roll cage before they bother to learn the single most basic concepts of how a roll cage should work?

Also, my girlfriend who knows absolutely nothing about cars, just took a look at these pictures and she said, "Why do you put a roll cage in a car?"

"It's for safety." Says I.

"Then why would this dumbass build a roll cage where the bars don't meet at the corners, wouldn't that make it weaker?"

There you have it folks. Common sense just took a dump on "car modding wisdom."

Restricted

Instead of bieng a dick why dont you enlighten him on what is wrong with it? intead of being a punk about it !

boostedb20z

iTrader: (1)

dont worry about being a dick cuz i dont really care and i think its fine and like said b4 well see what nhra says about it. what would be the differnce if i moved my kicker bars out if that bar is going to fail its going to fail no madder where i put them.

By the way have you ever done a roll cage b4????

essex

This is a place to learn not for calling people out, he even posted it tacked so give him credit and don't be an ***

0554

post pics of said girlfriend, then this post will be ok for calling him out

Restricted

right on !!!!!!!!!

JDM_Frijoles

Bump for the pix of the bitch!

speeddave

i agree, no need to be a douche.