WiedemannC

So far just have the main loop in right now, it is by no means certifiable( atleast i dont think). I have the loop welded to a 4x4 piece of flat stock then i have it bolted with 4 grade 8's 3/8 bolts with another piece of flat stock under it. here in the next few days im gana start working on the door bars im doing the street style door bars that will put its togeather still debating if wana run bars to back of trunk.Not gana take all credit my dad helped me with the bends heres some pics.
flat stock.

after being bent using bend tech, i want pro!

Checking fitment

put in

Finshed product.

The work area what you know about fadded hood son!



Upcoming project, building new turbo manifolds for the deuce plastic block in

k24em2

Why?

THE GUY

Yes, why? Cages in street cars are more unsafe than anything. Scrap the civic and drive the chevy.

WiedemannC

why not? maby sometime down the road i would like to auto cross it if dont mind me asking how are cages unsafe in street cars?

TheRappist

If you get into an accident, your head can slam into the cage, injuring you badly where you could have mental disabilities, or even death.

Jenkinsal2

Not only that but your main hoop looks to be wayyy too small. It should follow the lines of the car to keep the bars away from you. What you have right now without the proper bracing will do nothing more then make an accident far more likely to kill you... I would try for a v2.0 or take it out.

THE GUY

You don't need a cage to auto-x honestly, I mean you may benefit from the rigidity it would give you but as far as safety. But I doubt you'll have a major accident in a parking lot full of cones going maybe 30mph. And for the reasons others stated like hitting your head on that pipe will split your head open, and those foam pads won't do much to safe your cranium, unless you plan to daily drive with a helmet.

But it's your car and your head, so do what you like.

Oh and you won't get much stiffness from just a main hoop, unless you incorporate a floor bar into it. In which case you could just put in a floor bar that connects at the lower points of the B-pillar. Since the top of your cage is not connected to anything past the floor mounting points it will not stiffen the upper part of the chassis. You could maybe tie it into the seat belt mounting points on the B-pillar to gains some rigidity but I doubt it would make a big difference. Pretty much just wasting metal and time in the quest for looks it seems. It took a main and a full back setup in my old track car to actually get a noticeable difference in my car IMO. And like stated your bar is not fitted correctly, looks to be about 3" or more off the roof line and has no diagonal bracing. You just really put a injury additive in your car.

WiedemannC

pictures may not do justice but my head should not even come close to it and also if you were to read its not done yet going to do the door bars to stiffin it up alot more and then the bars to the back. the main loop is 1 5/8 by .135 wall

9bells

That's absolute crap! The roll BAR, will not contact your head. A roll CAGE would, and those are goofy in a street car because of it.
The thing I don't like is that it has no lateral support front or back. This makes it not much use in a roll-over. Put some rear braces up to the top of the main hoop.
Otherwise, I agree, take it out. It is a little narrow, and a little small. With a bolt-in deal, you can actually get closer because you don't worry about welding access.
It's a decent first effort, but it needs some work to make it functional.
Just saw your post, post pics when done, and your head will be fine.

THE GUY

Ok, like I said it's your head. I'd look into going to a refutable race shop and get their opinion on it since you seem to think it's a good idea. A harness bar, B-pillar floor bar, C-pillar bar would get your car quite a bit stiffer for less $ and be a lot safer for you and passengers.

WiedemannC

Yeah like I said its still all a work in progress here in next few day should have the door bars in and I'm going to run the bars to the trunk from top loop if I can find a way to keep back seats I may run them the whole way of head liner then down at seat crease

TheRappist

Yea because we all know that when you get into a car accident, regardless of how bad, you never leave the seat.

WiedemannC

Let's just all hope there will be no car reck ha.

jdmadam

iTrader: (2)

I totally agree


I would scrap that what you got now and build it right or just buy an autopower roll bar kit.

check out this thread about the autopower roll bar:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-acura-28/autopower-cage-saves-my-friends-lives-pics-inside-1495699/


.

WiedemannC

I'm not gana scrap it but keep building onto it

9bells

If your car accident is bad enough to move the seat, then the roll bar is going to save your life.
That said, there can be no passengers in the back ever. They are in the same boat as a driver with a cage that has a halo bar. Not even close to acceptable.
You have to make that decision. Bar means no passengers, Passengers mean no bar.

stevenDAtegra

I would add the other bars asap. It seems like it would be easy for that bar to fold if you did roll over with enough momentum.

WiedemannC

Yeah the door bars should be in by end of weekend

Dren

I'd put in the rear braces before door bars. You're going to have so much more hassle getting in and out with the door bars on a street car. Even with the door bars or rear braces you should consider adding a diagonal brace to the roll bar too.

WiedemannC

the door bars shouldnt make it any more harder to get in if any a little cause of how they will go this is what they will look like http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/940008/10002/-1

Jenkinsal2

Have safety and convenience with a pair of Jegster door bars. These door bars are pre-bent to allow easier entering and exiting of your vehicle, while increasing safety and support. Bars are sold as pairs and are made of 1-3/4'' x .134'' tubing.

Note: Not legal for competition use.


Again I must stress all you are doing is wasting your time and material. You are just making a show piece. Any racing organization will not look twice at certifying your "cage".

unusual71

1 5/8 is ok for a CAGE but for a roll bar every sanctioning body i have seen requires 1 3/4 or 1 7/8
also your flat stock braces are supposed to be 6X6 iirc.
lastly that fitment is awful. The point is tucking the bar as close to the chassis for clearance and so you don't notice it right away, I think, like some have mentioned, that you are just doing this for looks, which is only going to lead to trouble.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

Why are you putting a cage in a stock civic anyway?

WiedemannC

Well if it ever comes to it that I need to get certified then I can always change it around but like I said this bar is not it there are gana be a lot more pices added on in the future as for the stock civic with a bar why not do it do u know any ofv my plans down the road or maby even I just wanted to do it for practice

WiedemannC

wont have any more done to the cage untill sometime next week gota a biscayne in the garage geting some radio work done and some other little stuff will post pics later.