Motorhead_AZ

I thought I would share this to help the rest of us make collectors with more ease. This is my jig. It's pretty streight forward. You make one cut, and turn the piece, and make another cut.



The black right triangle is the jig. Hope you guys find this useful!

Soroush

turbo gli

couple of questions .

1 whats holding the tube in place ??

2 witch way do u turn it ??

u make the first cut right . then u turn it 90degrees in relation to the first cut right??
but witch side is facing the blade ? the previous cut part or the other side ?

problems im having with my jig is 3 or the 4 come out perfect .. but the last one .. even thow i cut the same as the rest is alittle off .. it leaves a gap on one side of the cuts ?

fabnewb

everything has to be perpendicular. so teh angle must be 90 degrees from the first cut. It could be the jig is slight off, and would explain the reason for the last one not quite fitting. I had taht problem last night and i realized it was like a degree off.

Motorhead_AZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo gli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">couple of questions .

1 whats holding the tube in place ??

2 witch way do u turn it ??

u make the first cut right . then u turn it 90degrees in relation to the first cut right??
but witch side is facing the blade ? the previous cut part or the other side ?

problems im having with my jig is 3 or the 4 come out perfect .. but the last one .. even thow i cut the same as the rest is alittle off .. it leaves a gap on one side of the cuts ?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1) You can use a number of things to hold the tube in place. I always like to use my hand, but you can use a clamp or even tape (get creative!).

2) You should turn the piece 90 degrees counter clockwise to make the second cut. The best way is to mark a line with a marker anywhere on the piece, and make sure the mark is rotated 90 degrees.

turbo gli

my jig holds it in place nice ..

thing im refering to is

after u make the first cut .. u get a "u"shape in the pipe

is that facing up towards the blade or .. is it facing the ground ?

i think it would work either way .. but i think thats were are getting messed up .. b/c i cant see the U shape .. i have it facing the ground ..

Engloid

Maybe I'm not visualizing this the way you intended...

But I'm thinking that the blade is straight up and down, and the pipe is angled....but the pic shows the blade at an angle, and the pipe straight up and down.

Why not just make a jig that will hold the pipe at an angle?
In other words, turn your jig (triangle in black) upside down and clamp your pipe to it. Then you will be starting your cut at the end of the pipe, where the blade will be less likely to wander off course.


To find 90 degrees: Take the paper ribbon like a cash register uses... wrap it around the pipe, and mark where it overlaps. Pull it off the pipe and fold at each mark. This is your circumference. Fold such that each of these touch (fold in half) then do it again. So you should then be able to unwarp it and have 2 marks that are each end of the circumference, and 3 lines in between them. Now when you wrap it on the pipe again, each mark will be 90 degrees apart.

98AccordEX

what i was thinkin of doing when i get my bandsaw is to tack weld the tubing into a piece of angle. then you could just lay the angle down on one side, cut that. then flip the angle to the other side and cut that. then you make sure that you cut exactly 90 degrees. the only problem would be that you would need 2 jigs set-up exactly opposite and it wouldnt be real quick to make a lot of them since you would have to cut the tacks off when theyre cut

Motorhead_AZ

Blade at an angle, pipe streight or pipe at an angle and blade streight, what is the difference? 2+3 or 3+2, they both equal 5

Well, the blade is not at an angle. The red line that crosses the piece is the line that blade cuts. If you tilt your head 30 degrees or so and look at the diagram, you see that everything lines up. The reason I drew the diagram the way it is, was that I didn't have a bette program that could draw a cylinder at an angle.

Motorhead_AZ

I rotated the image 28 degrees CCW. I hope this makes better sense now

RMF

Its so much easier if you lay it down.Make a fixture that holds the tube laying down .That way you push it through undo the clamp turn it clamp (cam-overs)it and push it through again .Viola!

Engloid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its so much easier if you lay it down.Make a fixture that holds the tube laying down .That way you push it through undo the clamp turn it clamp (cam-overs)it and push it through again .Viola!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now I know why I wasn't quite visualizing this....I was thinking of a horizontal band saw, not a vertical. Now that I see the drawing that way, I fully agree....it's going to be much easier to do this by laying the pipe down. Not only that, but many vertical saws come with a miter that you could easily use to get the correct angles.

29psiHybrid

iTrader: (1)

Kinda ot but what is a good bandsaw blade pitch for stainless. I've killed alot of blades and always end up using chop saw/ cut off wheels.

Davep

For cutting schedule 40 I use a 10 tooth. Also the blade speed makes a big difference.

Motorhead_AZ

I should have clarified that it was done on a vertical band saw, and the pipe was layed down.

turbo gli

i have a jig set up were i lets me put whatever angle i whant .. via the vice ..
set up on a horizontal bandsaw ..

ok in referance to your second pic .. the pipe . after u make the first cut . do u turn the pipe to the left or right? to make the second cut ..

also wouldnt it be easyer if your direction of trava was reversed . starting at the open instead of the side of the pipe ?

RMF

There is someone on one of these deals .That said they cut the tubes with a CNC mill .Anyway I tried that about 5 years ago when I was in Calif.Well It does a nice job.But I can cut all 4 tubes before he can cut one.It takes me about 35 to 40 min.s to cut the tubes .Then sand them and tack it together,Then weld it all the way up.And that's the in-line ones ,With the 12deg. bends in the middle.So you can put the 4 primaries straight into the collector.

mike_belben@yahoo.com

starting the saw blade on a round portion of tubing is invitation for the blade to walk and leave you with inaccuracies to sort out later. i find starting the blade at the end of the pipe and exiting out the side is more accurate and less chance of damaging the blade.

turbo gli

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">starting the saw blade on a round portion of tubing is invitation for the blade to walk and leave you with inaccuracies to sort out later. i find starting the blade at the end of the pipe and exiting out the side is more accurate and less chance of damaging the blade. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo 20v &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also wouldnt it be easyer if your direction of trava was reversed . starting at the open instead of the side of the pipe ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what im saying .. the blade will whant to bend or turn ..

fabnewb

i use a 14-18 vari tooth blade, with a blade speed of 80, and some cutting lubricant for 40 sche and 10 sche.

legendboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make a fixture</TD></TR></TABLE>

You must work with cnc machines or in a machine shop.

2point2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You must work with cnc machines or in a machine shop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a 'fixture' is just something that holds the peice down. you can use a c-clamp as a fixture. (but i wouldn't )

i'm going to quickly draw something up in Inventor when i get home - i have some ideas

RMF

It doesn't ,It comes in on the top of the collector.The part is at a 12deg. angle from the blade laying down flat.I make one cut and then turn it 90 deg. and cut it again.So it has two 12 deg. cuts.First you cut it in half,But at 12deg.s.Then you cut off 1/4 more at 12 degs.So now there is 3/4 missing.that's where the other three parts go

legendboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a 'fixture' is just something that holds the peice down. you can use a c-clamp as a fixture. (but i wouldn't )

i'm going to quickly draw something up in Inventor when i get home - i have some ideas </TD></TR></TABLE>

uh ya i know. We have a machine shop. I just have not heard anybody else here use the term "fixture".

We also just bought inventor. Haven't installed it yet. But the sales guy showed us some pretty cool models

Bailhatch

Before everyone mobs me with IMs...no I dont do graphics for web sites.

This is for my horizontal bandsaw. the fixture is adjustable for the cut angle and always holds the work securuly and paralell to the saw bed. Hopefully this will give others some ideas on some design details.

Want2race

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before everyone mobs me with IMs...no I dont do graphics for web sites.

This is for my horizontal bandsaw. the fixture is adjustable for the cut angle and always holds the work securuly and paralell to the saw bed. Hopefully this will give others some ideas on some design details.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a badass idea, drawing and jig!