any tips on arc welding?
#1
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any tips on arc welding?
hello everybody
this is the third time i'm trying to weld with my arc welder:
any tips?
is it ok (health speaking) to weld in a closed place (basement\shelter)?
best regards moshik galimidi
this is the third time i'm trying to weld with my arc welder:
any tips?
is it ok (health speaking) to weld in a closed place (basement\shelter)?
best regards moshik galimidi
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Re: any tips on arc welding? (RACEPAK)
actually 6010 is thinner. I would try adjusting your arc length and leaning up against something to be steadier. Try and side to side motion to slow yourself down, and have a more consistent bead.
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Re: any tips on arc welding? (RACEPAK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is it ok (health speaking) to weld in a closed place (basement\shelter)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Argon is heavier then air... so make sure you have a fresh air supply coming in and some kind of ventilation system to suck the argon out.
is it ok (health speaking) to weld in a closed place (basement\shelter)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Argon is heavier then air... so make sure you have a fresh air supply coming in and some kind of ventilation system to suck the argon out.
#6
Re: any tips on arc welding? (jaydmcrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydmcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually 6010 is thinner. I would try adjusting your arc length and leaning up against something to be steadier. Try and side to side motion to slow yourself down, and have a more consistent bead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he meant that he was using the thinnest 6013 rod he could buy, 6010 isn;t intrinsicly any thinner, since both of them come in a variety of sizes.
I think he meant that he was using the thinnest 6013 rod he could buy, 6010 isn;t intrinsicly any thinner, since both of them come in a variety of sizes.
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Re: any tips on arc welding? (MrMacros)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrMacros »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Argon is heavier then air... so make sure you have a fresh air supply coming in and some kind of ventilation system to suck the argon out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't use argon to weld stick. Also E6013 isn't any thinner than E6010. An 1/8" rod is an 1/8" rod, but an E6013 1/8" rod isn't an E6010 1/8" rod. The first two numbers refer to tensile strength, the second number refers to position, and the third refers to the coating and current.
Still would need to know what amperage you're running at, what current (AC or straight?), and what thickness rod and base metal you're using. Looks like it needs to be run hotter though and keep a tighter and steadier arc length of somewhere between 1/16" to 1/8". The tighter the better for the most part as long as it doesn't stick.
Argon is heavier then air... so make sure you have a fresh air supply coming in and some kind of ventilation system to suck the argon out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't use argon to weld stick. Also E6013 isn't any thinner than E6010. An 1/8" rod is an 1/8" rod, but an E6013 1/8" rod isn't an E6010 1/8" rod. The first two numbers refer to tensile strength, the second number refers to position, and the third refers to the coating and current.
Still would need to know what amperage you're running at, what current (AC or straight?), and what thickness rod and base metal you're using. Looks like it needs to be run hotter though and keep a tighter and steadier arc length of somewhere between 1/16" to 1/8". The tighter the better for the most part as long as it doesn't stick.
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#8
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Re: any tips on arc welding? (backpurge)
the amperage was 75.
i dont think i have ac option in my welder so i think it was straight.
pics of welder: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1136315
i think the rod was 2.5mm.
the basemetal was 1/8".
i dont think i have ac option in my welder so i think it was straight.
pics of welder: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1136315
i think the rod was 2.5mm.
the basemetal was 1/8".
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youre heat (amperage) looks pretty good by the pictures, but like said before, the side to side motion will help your beads look nicer and be stronger at that. What is meant by side to side motion just to clear it up in case youre wondering, you move maybe 1/4" in one direction, then back maybe 1/8" and keep doing this so each section overlaps nicely. Some other things that helped me out, were this: first keep the distance of the rod equal from the workpiece as you move along, the rod will get shorter very quickly so you have to compensate as you move along the weld. Also when doing a T joint, you dont have to keep the rod off the piece very far, in fact, when i do it i try and keep the rod shoved down in the joint. This helps bc there is air behind the weld, unlike welding on a flat piece of metal. Try some different rods out too, 6010 and 6013 are a little more difficult to get to look nice, compared to a 7018 or something. But with practice and time youll figure it all out yourself anyways, just sit down and weld weld and weld some more, thats the only real way to get good at it.
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Re: any tips on arc welding? (backpurge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the third time i'm trying to weld with my arc welder:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
First tip: Metal Inert Gas (MIG), Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG), Sub-arc, and more...they all use an arc. It is more accurately called a STICK WELDING MACHINE...uwhich uses the Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) process.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it ok (health speaking) to weld in a closed place (basement\shelter)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really. Stick welding puts out a lot of smoke. The smoke can be very hazardous, and can, in itself, cause cancer.
Another tip. This type of rod is not really meant to be dragged. Try either a weave, or go about 1/4" forward, then 1/8" backward, repeat over and over. This gives the "stacked dime" look. Also, it lets the puddle cool as you move forward, then you go back about 2/3 of the way back into it, and put down another ripple. You can also do something like a crescent movement while in the crater, to widen the bead when you want to, then forward, back in the crater, and repeat...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6013 thinest there is</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your thickness of material will allow it, go on up to something liike a 3/32" or 1/8" rod. Even a 1/8" rod will burn pretty well as low as 75 amps (60xx rods).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Looks like it needs to be run hotter though and keep a tighter and steadier arc length of somewhere between 1/16" to 1/8". The tighter the better for the most part as long as it doesn't stick.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, but he's running the smallest rod he can get already, so more heat is probably not an option with it. Odds are, he's getting about 2/3 of the rod burned and the remainder is so hot he can't weld with it. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about here.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
First tip: Metal Inert Gas (MIG), Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG), Sub-arc, and more...they all use an arc. It is more accurately called a STICK WELDING MACHINE...uwhich uses the Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) process.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it ok (health speaking) to weld in a closed place (basement\shelter)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really. Stick welding puts out a lot of smoke. The smoke can be very hazardous, and can, in itself, cause cancer.
Another tip. This type of rod is not really meant to be dragged. Try either a weave, or go about 1/4" forward, then 1/8" backward, repeat over and over. This gives the "stacked dime" look. Also, it lets the puddle cool as you move forward, then you go back about 2/3 of the way back into it, and put down another ripple. You can also do something like a crescent movement while in the crater, to widen the bead when you want to, then forward, back in the crater, and repeat...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6013 thinest there is</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your thickness of material will allow it, go on up to something liike a 3/32" or 1/8" rod. Even a 1/8" rod will burn pretty well as low as 75 amps (60xx rods).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Looks like it needs to be run hotter though and keep a tighter and steadier arc length of somewhere between 1/16" to 1/8". The tighter the better for the most part as long as it doesn't stick.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, but he's running the smallest rod he can get already, so more heat is probably not an option with it. Odds are, he's getting about 2/3 of the rod burned and the remainder is so hot he can't weld with it. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about here.
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