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Do a test and find out if the IPM is accurate. Hold the trigger for 6 seconds. Clip the wire. Measure the length. Multiply by 10, that's the 'correct' IPM.
You should be dragging the gun, and have a drag angle of 5-15°.
Weldingtipsandtricks.com is supposed to have an IPM/thickness chart that helps to get into the ballpark of where you should be.
Other than that it's playing with settings and getting that 'frying bacon' sound.
My MIG welding textbook has a photo example of 'incorrect' looking beads. I'll see if I can take a pic and post it later.
Do a test and find out if the IPM is accurate. Hold the trigger for 6 seconds. Clip the wire. Measure the length. Multiply by 10, that's the 'correct' IPM.
You should be dragging the gun, and have a drag angle of 5-15°.
Weldingtipsandtricks.com is supposed to have an IPM/thickness chart that helps to get into the ballpark of where you should be.
Other than that it's playing with settings and getting that 'frying bacon' sound.
My MIG welding textbook has a photo example of 'incorrect' looking beads. I'll see if I can take a pic and post it later.
You really should not be giving advice since it's all wrong anyway
The saying goes where is there is slag....drag. And he is not using flux core wire.
So he will have a more enjoyable experience if he PUSHES.
You really should not be giving advice since it's all wrong anyway
The saying goes where is there is slag....drag. And he is not using flux core wire.
So he will have a more enjoyable experience if he PUSHES.
Fcaw yes, only drag. I was taught for gmaw to push or pull, whatever works better. Vertical under 1/4" is down, 1/4 or over is up only.
Here is what my gmaw textbook says about gun travel direction/angle.
I push or pull depending on comfort/visibility. Usually I try to pull. It just works better for me. My latest seam weld I completed was 180", consisting of 6 tie-ins. About 30" each. All dragging, no leaks on the leak test...I must have been doing something right.
What else of my advice is wrong? I'm always appreciative of others giving advice and helping me become a better welder.
Nothing to write home about but welds get better every section. Still getting technique down, playing with settings and dipping tungsten in the filler :/ lol.
Did you wipe it all down with acetone?
That makes a huge difference. Also wiping the tungsten with acetone after you sharpen.
When you tack a cut you should just need to stomp on the pedal really quick to get the pieces to fuse unless you have a lot of gaps on the cuts.
A belt sander helps with getting your cuts even and flush.
Harbor freight special with a belt from mcmaster helps
Fcaw yes, only drag. I was taught for gmaw to push or pull, whatever works better. Vertical under 1/4" is down, 1/4 or over is up only.
Here is what my gmaw textbook says about gun travel direction/angle.
I push or pull depending on comfort/visibility. Usually I try to pull. It just works better for me. My latest seam weld I completed was 180", consisting of 6 tie-ins. About 30" each. All dragging, no leaks on the leak test...I must have been doing something right.
What else of my advice is wrong? I'm always appreciative of others giving advice and helping me become a better welder.
Thanks, Caogirl!
I prefer to drag the puddle instead of trying to push it, pushing feels weird to me but I should develop both methods.
Also, I did check out weldingtipsandtricks, that's how I got my ipm () but I'll try it again.
Lightning teg
Honestly with your manifold looking all pretty
Chalk that 90 up to practice and toss it
Youre using way to much heat
45-50 amps max and only do 1" sections at a time
Practice dipping on a flat surface
Did you buy a gas lens for the welder? If not stop welding right away and buy one.
Get the big #12 gas lens
I thought the amps were too high, but I felt like it needed it to keep the puddle going. I could only do about an 1" at a time and I would have to stop and rotate the piece. With all the messing up of the tungstens it had plenty of time to cool lol.
This is using a gas lens #9, 3/32 tungsten, 25cfh
Originally Posted by Tufflexveritiv
How are you sharpening your tungsten? After you hit it with filler do you resharpen? If not you need to everytime
Did you bevel the pie cuts at?
Yes I used a brand new tungsten everytime it got contaminated (I dont have an bench grinder at my house yet so I sharpened them all at the in laws house)
Cleaned with acetone after wire brush
Originally Posted by Tufflexveritiv
Yeah the aesthetics
Those cuts maybe cost a total of 4-5 bucks at the most? Maybe less
Good practice. Just a little too excited to weld something together it seems.
Ive been there i know the feel.
Im sure the inside doesn't look so good either and is going to take a lot of time to get smooth.
Not really worried about the athethics. Its going to be wrapped with header wrap so it wont be visible anyway.
Originally Posted by Tufflexveritiv
I think i can see some bevel on the cuts.
Did you wipe it all down with acetone?
That makes a huge difference. Also wiping the tungsten with acetone after you sharpen.
When you tack a cut you should just need to stomp on the pedal really quick to get the pieces to fuse unless you have a lot of gaps on the cuts.
A belt sander helps with getting your cuts even and flush.
Harbor freight special with a belt from mcmaster helps
The pie cuts fit together really well. Just the welding side of it was noobish.
I travel a bit then pull back and dip travel pull back then dip
This helps not hitting the filler on the tungsten a lot because you can get right into the puddle
Yeah thanks for the tips. As the night went along each weld was a little better then the last. The heat thing still kinda gets me. I've done plenty of mild at work and it's always had nicer color. I need to get some my scrap pipe out and practice some more.
02-29-2016, 10:27 AM
Re: ***WELDING RANDOM CHAT THREAD***
Re: ***WELDING RANDOM CHAT THREAD***
