rbryant

[quote=viskii420]Is just the axle sliding within the differential? Isn't there a c-clip that is supposed to hold the axle to stop that from happening?

Did you shim the differential to the transmission case so that the diff has the proper slack within the case?

-Rich

teal_dx

That is the exact same problem I had. The clips were in, I tried 3 different oem axles. They has about 3/16" play and slid in & out. This lead to a slow tranny fluid leak when they slid away a little bit and the axle was not flush with the axle seal.

I installed a new axle seal but did not push it in as far and put 2 big thin washers on the axle to make up for the gap.
No more leaking, but I will not buy another OBX product. Even if they would have exchanged the unit, I would still have to remove my tranny again and have all the downtime - not worth it.

rbryant

Did you take the LSD apart and service it? If you did:

Is it possible that you put the gear that the axle goes into in backwards? I did this once and it stopped the axle from going in all of the way.

The helical cut will go in both ways and the splines will engage but the axles don't get the proper depth when installed backwards.

It might sound stupid but I did it once and had to take it back apart and fix it...

-Rich

harmonator84

Thanks..

stmotorsports

enzo do you still have the original pics to this? I need a couple of them for reference

also might be able to rehost depending on total size

lvlrlvlopar

So what happens when it still rattles after i took it apart and set up the washers the right way? it doesnt rattle as bad as it did and the washers are tight.

rbryant

There will always be some rattle because the helical gears have a small amount of play in them. The rattle is between the helical gears and the end of the case or the helical gears and the sun gears(the ones everything revolves around). The washers take up the play between the sun gears only.

A small amount of rattle is fine.

-Rich

SpoonCivicSir20

subscribed

lvlrlvlopar

i thought i read somewhere else that any rattle was bad news. do the quaife diffs rattle too?

Mista Bone

they all rattle..........

45 OBX's in my hands
44 installed without issue, 1 had run out issues
ZERO got the washer upgrade, ZERO failures as well.

Even my Kaaz and OEM diffs rattle.

MFactory

If the gears did not rattle at all, not even slightly (you can't always hear it though), then that is bad. Why? Because that means the clearances are off and something might be jammed inside the diff (like a bit of wood!). Worse case scenario, a hole gets blown in the diff casing, which then jams the rest of your tranny causing a chain of destruction.

And vice versa, too much rattle is bad also.

lvlrlvlopar

Alright sounds good to me thanks again guys

SpoonCivicSir20

any detailed info with pix on the install of an lsd, specifically the obx?

Honda Bull

I just messed with one today. Came like: ()()((

I have a couple questions though that can hopefully be answered.

1) What is the torque spec on the diff casing? I have seen 28, 35, and 40 lb-ft. Is one of these correct?

2) EDIT: I just read the top of this page and this was answered. lol

SpoonCivicSir20

anyone know of a detailed write up on the install of an lsd?

rice_classic

Rich, what is your time frame getting these shipped if I purchased today? Also, do you sell the washers without the bolts?

btw: check your PM.

Almost forgot to add: this is on a 1990 CRX si. OEM tranny for a d16a6.


EDIT: I already purchased them from your website via paypal. I hope the shipping is quick like others have mentioned. Thank you.

rbryant

Shipping goes out next day in most cases and takes 2 days. Sorry I am much quicker with email than the message boards. I guess I haven't been on here in a while I will have to check here more often. I do however check paypal and my email every day!

-Rich

rbryant

All,

I will be out of town from the 6th to the 19th.

If anyone needs washers during that time please order by Tuesday night so I can be sure to get them in the mail before i go.

I will also add a note to my ordering page.

Thanks,

Rich

Nikolai

What a helpful thread, thanks everyone...

I'm looking to pick up some new 40x80x18 diff. bearings (or 6208 std. sizing), and I'd like to source from a bearing supplier vs. Honda, since the cheapest I've found online from Honda is ~$75 shipped. Any idea what exact type they are? Ball or roller, angular contact, sealed or not?

Or better yet, would be great if someone had an actual part # for a reputable manufacturer like Timken, SKF, NACHI, or NTN. Thanks.

Edit: My install is for a K20a2 tranny.

Nikolai

Looks like all these bearings "fit", but not sure which type we have:

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=620...6208&_osacat=0

If someone has their tranny cracked or old OEM bearing laying around, it should say "6208ZZ" or something like that on it... This info would help a lot. Thanks.

Civic89stdB16

just got mine and cant wait to install it. getting the washer/rebuild kit for it first.

rbryant

It looks like my PM email notification setting was off. I am sorry if I was slow to reply to any PMs regarding washer kits.

I updated my setting and I should get notification emails when I get a PM now. I will reply within a day or two of when I get them.

I am still selling them and they can be ordered on my info/ordering site: http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm

They are in stock and ship the day after they are ordered.

-Rich

MR.johnson

this thread is great. anyone have the pictures saved anywhere?

Andres3165

Would like to re-activate this thread to hear opinions after a few years. Results.

Thanks

Andres

stmotorsports

I've installed a bunch of these (a couple were even in my own cars), all with good results as long as you do the rebuild.

However (brace yourself, here comes my long winded shpiel):

I've found that on quite a few of them if you're not careful on reassembly the diff halves want to go together pretty far off from true (misaligned/offset) meaning the dowel pins aren't doing their job. This results in both radial and axial misalignment of the diff when reinstalled in the trans, depending on which part's point of view you're referencing from (ring gear/bearings/etc). I brought this up on here and there was some debate about it, but most felt it wasnt a big deal. I consulted with a few mechanical engineer buddies of mine and they assured me that no good could come from leaving it like that. On some of the more severe cases I found that it resulted in the diff binding in the trans pretty bad when everything was reassembled. It also creates an uneven contact pattern between the final drive/driven gears since the ring is orbiting around the pinion unevenly, and creates further angular misalignments where the axles come out of the trans. All of these misalignments could result in varying degrees of different issues including power loss, vibrations, weakness or other random unpredictability especially during power transitions (throttle on/off/etc). At best I can guarantee it will substantially reduce the life of the diff bearings. Here are some vids I did to show what I'm talking about ~> http://www.youtube.com/user/stmotorsports. Check my comments on each vid as they go from worst to best.

To each his own and maybe I do make too big a deal about the whole thing, but any OBXs I do I'm **** about putting the case halves back together as close to 100% true as possible. Its really not a big deal anyways, it only takes some extra care when reassembling it.