woodenchef

Hi I am in the midst of rebuilding my B16A cable tranny. Reason I was trying to rebuild it a bit was because of a winding noise while the clutch was engaged. I was told it may be the input shaft bearing.



I believe this is the input shaft bearing at the bottom of the main shaft?


I also am having trouble get the main shaft to come out I got the one bracket off because the two screws were easy to get at. Than I got 2 out 3 on the other bracket but one I can't get a socket on there because its kinda under a metal piece. A wrench just strips it due to the angle. This is what needs to come off then everything should come to come apart right?

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Pull the shaft out of the shift change assembly.

woodenchef

Which shafts are you talking about exactly? The ones on the shift change assembly do not seem to come out. The two tall thinner ones next to the counter shaft and main shaft? I thought the whole shift change assembly had to be remove first?

woodenchef

So I found the shaft you were talking about lol The one holding the shift change assembly itself together. I pulled on it and it came right out. I was able to remove the part blocking me from removing the last bolt. Removed the shift change assembly got a good firm grip on the main shaft and counter shaft and pulled it all out.

I want to order the part now, but I need to remove the input shaft bearing. I see there is a little slot maybe for a flat head. Am I supposed to sort of pry it out? Also I never worked with bearings what should I be looking for from where it is it looks fine to me.

94EG8

That slot is an oiling hole.

Tap the bearing out from behind using a prybar like the ones shown below and a hammer:



Simply line the end of the prybar up with the inner race and tap on the end switching sides ever 2 or 3 hits so as not to drive the bearing out ****-eyed.

Check the bearing for roughness first, but even if it feels good I'd replace it anyway. That bearing in particular has such a high failure rate and costs so little there's no good reason not to change it, replace the seal under it as well. Check the rest of the bearings as well. Disassemble, and clean everything before putting it all back together. Dirt and debris can clog oiling passages in the main and countershafts starving bearings for oil. Check for other worn parts at the same time.

woodenchef

Thanks for your help I managed to get it out. After inspecting the bearing I noticed there was a little chunk of metal inside of it. Other than that it felt smooth and everything, but I am going to replace it anyways.

Also when I order parts what is the equivalent to the JDM b16a cable transmission?

94EG8

Is the trans code sticker still on the case? If it's a YS1 order parts for a '92 - '93 Integra (any trim level) If it's anything else order for a '90 - '91 Integra (any trim level)

woodenchef

I looked all over both sides of the casing and there was no code as far as I could see. I guess there is really no other way to distinguish between the two years? The only thing I know is that is came off a JDM B16A. What should I do?

94EG8

I don't work on enough B-series transmissions that I could tell you just looking at it, but a few of the other guys here can ID it just looking at it.

If you happen to have a hydro B-series clutch disc and it fits the spline on the input shaft it's definitely YS1 though.

woodenchef

I do not believe it is a YS1. My car is a 91 civic wagon, and it has not been converted to hydraulic. So I don't think I could of been using a hydraulic clutch. If it's a B16a than it came off the 90-91 Integra GSR right?

94EG8

No, you misunderstood. The YS1 is cable trans, but it uses the same clutch as a hydro trans. A quick and dirty way to identify the YS1 is slide a clutch disc from a hydro (or another YS1 trans) on the input shaft, if it fits its a YS1, if it's too big it's an older B-series transmission.

Also, there was no '90 - '91 GS-R. The '92 - '93 GS-R came with a B17A1, was USDM only and used a close ratio YS1 cable trans. I believe some JDM B16As came equipped with the same YS1 cable trans in JDM Integras.

woodenchef

Oh I understand. I have been trying to search the web to see if I can get a measurement for the input shaft of a Y1 and YS1 to determine which one it is. It most likely is a Y1 because I would assume previous owner bought the B16A engine & transmission together. I pulled the B16A sold it kept the transmission & clutch, and bought a B20B block. I am not sure where I can get YS1 clutch disk, and since my transmission is unknown atm than so is my clutch disk that I have.

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/Bgears.htm I found this but I don't know how to determine different gear ratios. There has to be dimensions for input shafts for there according transmission out there.

94EG8

I only mentioned it because most of us that do this sort of thing on a regular basis tend to keep some old junk like that around, sometimes it leads to some interesting discoveries, like '06 - '11 Civics (except Si) use the same clutch disc and pressure plate as '90 - '05 Civics)

In any case this might help you out:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/transmission-drivetrain-127/heres-my-input-shaft-diameter-what-clutch-do-i-need-3122248/

Determining gear ratios is easy. Simply count the teeth and divide the number of teeth on the mainshaft gear into the amount of teeth on the countershaft gear for each gearset. The result is the gear ratio.

94EG8

Actually, now that I think about YS1 cable trans are the only ones with externally accessible detent *****. That transmission doesn't have externally accessible detent *****, ergo it's an S1/Y1/J1 cable trans.

woodenchef

Well I took a micrometer to my input shaft and from end to end of the spline it was 24.7mm. From that post you showed me that would mean it is a LS. So I should be fine with ordering parts from a 90-91 integra. The Y1 is a 25.4mm diameter.

94EG8

It doesn't mean it's an LS, just that it's a Y1/S1/J1 trans. But yes, that bearing and seal can be ordered for a '90 - '91 LS. Other stuff like gears, synchros and sleeves are different between the LS and B16A trans.

woodenchef

Just to clarify it would be number # 18 & 24 for the oil seal I should get.
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False

Or I was looking at this as well.
http://shop.synchrotech-transmission...-BSK-S1-Y1.htm

I am not sure if I really want to get into taking apart the gears and stuff. As far as I can see they look in really good shape. I drove the the car with the b16A with the transmission, and it seemed to shift fine and ever thing, other than the noise it would make when the clutch was engaged.

Do you suggest any other bearings I should just replace as well since I have it open.

94EG8

Correct.

Unless you need a few bearings I'd just get the one bearing and seal you need.

There's nearly always some dirt and inside the shafts, sometimes it will plug or partially plug up the oiling holes so you'll starve other bearings for oil in the future. I wont come back to bite you in the *** everytime, but sometimes it will. I wont do anything to a transmission until I completely disassemble and clean everything so I know what I'm working with.

Any that are bad or rough.

woodenchef

Okay so I ordered the Input shaft bearing, and oil seal, as well as a new axle seal because mine looked rough.

My problem is I started removing parts from the main shaft and they all came off by hand or a little pull. Now I am stuck of on the these hub things.



I don't have a 3 arm bearing puller though, but even if I did there is nothing really on that piece for it to grab onto. The parts that the guide say I may need one I did not. What methods could I use to get it off I tried pulling really hard and everything, and that did not work. I do not want to damage anything as well.

94EG8

Bring the mainshaft down hard on a block of hardwood, the hub will slide right off. It may take a couple of attempts. Same for the countershaft, but it will come a lot harder.

woodenchef

Thanks, I used a 2x4 and after a couple of times bringing it down onto it everything came loose.

I now want to disassemble my countershaft. What would be the best method to make everything not spin while I try to loosen the 32mm nut. I was thinking maybe two pieces of wood in a press to make it not spin. Then take a air gun or breaker bar to it? Would that damage the gears?

94EG8

If you have a good impact gun just grab it with a work glove on and it'll come right off. If you don't have an impact gun use wood like you said in a press or a vice.

4g hatch

hard to tell from that pic but it looks like your third gear sleeve have some decent wear and also the syncro spring looks wore flat. but its hard to say for sure in that pic

94EG8

Yeah it does, the synchro itself doesn't seem to have a lot clearance either.

woodenchef

Yeah, they are worn down pretty bad.




I am not sure exactly what the clearances are supposed to be for the synchros. What causes the clearances to go out of wack? The synchro warping out of shape?