g230sport

Was the car acting up while he watched the voltage? Getting the car diagnosed properly imo requires the use of a scanner with datastream, or a scope. The key would be to watch every pid while the car is acting up, too bad youre not local or id tell you to come by the shop im at. Imho, its something related to temperature, if i read right, it mainly acts up cold, and gets better warm. Makes me think its a sensor or component

EJ8Bramaged

He could only run the voltmeter while the car was stationary, so we couldn't do it under load which is when it acts up while it's cold. I can rev it all day long cold and not notice anything, it's when it's under load that makes the big impact. 1st gear can power through it, 2nd gear a little less and 3rd and up can't even get passed 3k rpm when it hasn't been running for at least 10 minutes in normal driving conditions. Most sensors are out of play when it's cold due to the open loop of the ECU.

g230sport

I havent reasearched anything on the ymm of the car, i just know from experience that the coolant sensor has an impact on fuel control. If you have a nice set of jumper wires and the appropriate pins to backprope the connectors you shoukd be able to check anything while running the car. In all reality it could be so many things, without having the car and equipment to test and check, itd be damn near impossible to guess the problem. I would seriously look at the coolant sensor closely, ive seen them intermittently cause a car to fall on its face out of know where, which imo is the closest match to what you guys have going on

EJ8Bramaged

replaced coolant sensor just to be sure.... no change.

EJ8Bramaged

I put the car up for sale locally. If it doesn't sell within 2 weeks, I'm going to completely rebuild the motor with some aftermarket goodies, boost it and drive it til it dies.

A D16Y8 semi built spooling a 20G should be fun.

10psiLsEf2

Ok so spoke to my fellow HONDA Gold Technician at my autocenter!


He asked me How is the COOLANT? (condition/color)

Also said to perform a Valve Lash Adjustment

castajc82

I would check the egr and ports as well. Clogged egr ports can cause the same issue cylinder misfires and will not always throw insuffient flow code.

EJ8Bramaged

There is no EGR Valve on the D16Y8

The coolant is new, just did a flush within the first week of owning the car.
We were going to adjust the valves this last weekend, but before doing so came to the conclusion that it would cause a constant problem rather than "only when it's cold" problem if the valves were out of alignment.

I'm still going back to think it's the head gasket. I have noticed my coolant level is down a little and just recently a friend said that just before I shift, it starts blowing white smoke.

It's been for sale for a couple weeks now. I've gotten a few offers on the car, but when the person makes an offer, it's followed by "Can I make payments" or "I don't have the money right now". It's getting rather old. If the car doesn't sell by December, I'm ordering all of following parts and probably keeping the car:
BC0072 Brian Crower Stage 2 FI Cam
BC0070 Brian Crower Valve Spring & Ti Retainer Kit
BC3070 Brian Crower Intake Valves (STD)
BC3071 Brian Crower Exhaust Valves (STD)
ARP Head Stud Kit
Cometic 2MM Head Gasket
Pistons (9:1), H Beam Rods (Probably Eagles)
Block Guard

And then boosting it to about 16lbs on a 20G turbo.

accorse07

You should confirm the problem before doing any upgrades. The headache now is only isolated to what you have came out of pocket for the vehicle so far. Having the same problem remain once all your goodies are installed is going to be the killer.

10psiLsEf2

Improper valve lash would cause more issues while cold!!!

Since the metal EXPANDS.


It could be a valve that hangs up while cold.


But now that you say it smokes and you have little coolant loss. then possible hg.


Go get your radiator sniffed at your local smog station shoot the guy 10 bucks! Be sure its at normal op temperature.

dueyx99

i have another question for you after reading through all this this morn, what did you do in order to correct the "map high input" problem? any problems with the map sensor will throw the ecu for a loop and possibly even enter "limp mode"

EJ8Bramaged

Well, I'm thinking it has to be something in the head, but if I'm taking off the head to do the head gasket, might as well look at some goodies to put in there AND:

Do a valve adjustment at that time when it's reinstalled! BUT I'll have my brother (head tech) check the coolant. It passed last time but it was right after a flush, even at regular temps may have had an effect on the results.

The MAP Sensor was replaced and the code has not resurfaced.

skylerreniger

did you ever figure out what was wrong with the car. im kind of having the same problem expect my car runs good when its cold and when it gets to running temp it runs like ****. ive tried so many things and im ready to give up. please help

EJ8Bramaged

It's not resolved yet at this point. It's down to the hardware like valves or possibly a head gasket.

jdmrsferio

get a new MAP sensor and TPS sensor and clean out your IAC valve with brake cleaner the screen on it is probably blocked by gunk i had similar problem and it is now fixed you may want to change out your fuel filter as well those get pretty bad as well i changed mine out too. if you hear your fuel pump on it may not be the problem but there is a little cone filter inside of the fuel pump those sometimes fall off and it starts messing with your drivability especially if you are low on gas it will run really really bad. try n look into those topics on your car maybe one will fix it.

skylerreniger

i will maybe try a new map sensor. tps is new i have cleaned iacv and fitv i have brand new fuel filter and pump. also brand new coil pack, rotor, dizzy cap, plugs and wires. also new coolant temp sensor which many people told me that could be the problem but it wasn't. when i unplug the hose from my throttle body to my map sensor the car runs like ****. does that tell you the map sensor is working good since the car runs way worse when the vacuum hose is unplugged from the throttle body to the map sensor?

EJ8Bramaged

Hey thread jack, you have a different problem than I do. I would try sticking to your own thread so anyone that does come across having the same issue as me isn't confused when they start reading through this.

skylerreniger

Haha I have my own thread started. Just looking for more answers.

EJ8Bramaged

I'm not trying to be rude, but that's the point of having the availability of starting your own thread; to have a topic based upon your issues rather than someone else's.

Anyways, I had the coolant checked. There was a "variance" at warm operating temps, but nothing definitive. The guy said it's possibly still the head gasket just because when it hits operating temperatures, the heat make the metal expand that could possibly seal the leak. Revving the engine at a stop doesn't make it smoke either. It only under load above 5k when it's warm. I rarely, if ever, go over that anyways, but that's when it happens.

dueyx99

so are you still throwing codes at all for the map sensor issue?

EJ8Bramaged

No, the only code is has been throwing for the last week or so is "Insufficient Catalytic Converter System"

dueyx99

now are these codes being checked with the service check connector or do you have a scan tool plugged in to show any pending codes, just when you said that you were having map sensor issues originally what did you do in order for this to stop showing up as a DTC?

EJ8Bramaged

Scan Tool Plugged in.
I replaced the MAP sensor.

dueyx99

hmm anyway you can upload a video of this in action?

EJ8Bramaged

I've tried taking video but you can't hear the misfire in the video and the tach doesn't flutter wildly. I can't hold it in the RPM's where it's misfiring because that's just horrible. In the video, it just looks like I shift at 3k every time. I'll try using the GoPro on the bumper and see if you can hear it that way and then I'll sync the videos.