DJ Gurgla GSR

i'm building my gsr bottom end right now. Wiseco pistons, 81.5mm bore, 10.0 compression, planning to boost in the spring (10 psi max). This is my DAILY DRIVER not a track car

I've realized today that my oil squirters interfere with the wiseco pistons. I've tried to bend them in order to clear the piston, crank, and rod but its not working out well. I can kinda get it to work but the clearances are real tight.

In the process of bending them, i broke one

So my options are:

Golden eagle oil plug squirter kit - $12 + shipping

Buy one new oil squiter ($18 from acura) and bend that, and my other 3 to fit properly and clear everything (will have no real idea on clearances)

Cut the squirter real short to clear everything but then i would need to modify the tip somehow to maintain the oil pressure. could i just squeeze the tip with the pliers? This option would also involve a new $18 squirter from acura.

I know you can go without the squirters, but this is my daily driver. they are forged pistons, but i like the idea of oil coating them all the time since its my daily driver and i want it to last.

ANY help on this is appreciated, as my build is on hold at this time. thanks....

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I hope you mean the crank was hitting the squiters. Because if the piston was then you have problems because it shouldnt be going down any further than the stock pistons.

Was it hitting the nozzle or the bolt head that holds the squiters? On my GSR I used a LS crank which hit the bolt head on just one of the squirters. So I filed a corner of the head off until I had some clearance.

The nozzles arent meant to be bent at all or very much. As soon as you start to bend them they will either collapse or break like they did for you already.

If the problem is hitting the nozzle then plug the squiters. If the bolt head is in the way then buy a new squiter and try my idea of filing the bolt head a little bit.

DJ Gurgla GSR

Not the bolt head. its the nozzle hitting the bottom of the piston. its because of the way wiseco designed the piston. I saw this in another thread which made me check to see if it was a problem.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1000978

I checked all 4 cylinders with the oil squiters just as they came out of the block originally and all 4 hit the wisecos in the exact same spot. The crank would not fully rotate to BDC cuz the nozzle would hit the 'wall' underneath the piston(running parallel with the thrust surfaces). I was sure that they were oriented correctly (exhaust reliefs on exhaust side etc).

When comparing my oem pistons to the wisecos, there clearly is a difference in design, which accounts for the problem here.

at one point in had all 3 remaining squirters not hitting anything (piston, rod, or crank) but it was pretty damn tight all around.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Interesting... I didnt have this problem with CP pistons. Anyways in your case Id recommend just plugging them up. If you try to bend them your going to break more. Its not worth fighting that hard to keep something that isnt critical for forged psitons.

DJ Gurgla GSR

This seems to be a hot topic after i did some more searching. I think i would like to keep them. although it is quickly becoming a pain in the ***

At a point, i had all 3 bent to not hit anything. but i have no idea whether i have adequate clearance all around. Then i started messing with it and screwed it up. I do not think i was gonna break anymore with the technique i was using to bend em. i broke the first one going about it like an ******* in retrospect.

So You think i'm good without them? 10 psi / 300 hp daily?

BoostGoneWild

You know i had the same problem. Before i had CP pistons and they cleared the squirters, but then when i went with the Wisecos same thing happen, the only diffrence is, i found out after 2500 miles that i found all 4 tips broken at the same length in my oil pan. They didn't break right at the bolt, they broke were they make the bend up to spray the piston. That never gave me any problem, and also i should add that my car is running over 20 psi, everyday driven

DJ Gurgla GSR

Did you bend the squirters so they cleared the pistons and THEN they broke after use?

Or you left them as is and eventually they broke?

i couldn't even get to BDC cuz it was hitting

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Plug em. Having large broken peices of metal floating around in my oil pan is very disturbing.

non-VTEC

the wiseco piston skirt design is slightly longer so it comes in contact with the oil squirters. you need to bend them or remove them............to make things easier i would just remove them and plug the holes.

DJ Gurgla GSR

I'd rather not remove them if i can avoid it. Even if i am using forged pistons, this is my daily driver (need it to last) and i'll be boosting (high heat situations).

as of right now, they are bent so they do not touch the piston, rod or crank. but the spot is tight and i am not positive on the clearnace.

boost'd_crx

you dont need them for aftermarket pistons anyways. you can purchase the plugs from ge or just get them welded.

DJ Gurgla GSR

Since its my daily driver (need to be reliable and last) and i'll be boosting, i spent A LOT of time to bend all 4 squirters so they do not hit anything and the crank can fully rotate. pain in the ***, but i like the idea that my pistons are always getting oil. forged or not, just a personal preference i guess

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ Gurgla GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since its my daily driver (need to be reliable and last) and i'll be boosting, i spent A LOT of time to bend all 4 squirters so they do not hit anything and the crank can fully rotate. pain in the ***, but i like the idea that my pistons are always getting oil. forged or not, just a personal preference i guess</TD></TR></TABLE>

The OEM squirters were put in those blocks to cool the factory cast pistons..... all they do is add weight to the forged pistons by spraying oil on them.

DJ Gurgla GSR

they're not NEEDED for forged pistons, but they will have the same cooling effect.

i plan to boost it. boost = heat. so i'd prefer to keep them after doing more research.

the added weight from the oil on there is very minimal. in fact you could argue that plugging them will boost your oil pressure, making your oil pump work harder, and therefore losing power cuz the crank has to use more force to turn the oil pump. Its a minimal loss, but probably as minimal as the weight from the oil on the piston / rod assembly

non-VTEC

i do recall wiseco including in the box with the pistons a small sheet that stated they recommend a specific clearance between the piston skirt and the oil squirter's.

i "think" it was .030 clearance for the skirt to the oil squirter. but someone else who happens to have a new set of wiseco pistons with them can double check for you.

PyroProblem

Plug them.
Mine cleared on initial assy. but somewhere down the road they started to hit. I found the jets in my oil pan. I also used the GE kit. It even broke a part of my piston skirt on #4. Now i have a little blowby but it still runs decent...
89mm x 84.5 wiseco/rollerwaves...

DJ Gurgla GSR

They started to hit even tho they cleared at first???

Did you use any threadlocker on the bolts for the squirters?

non-VTEC

the only reason they would hit after even though they seem to have enough clearance it because of heat expansion. which is why they tell you to make sure there is at least a certain amount of clearance.

powerofdreams8

I was able to bend mine out of the way of my wiseco skirts. I, like you, decided I would rather have them then not. I had to bend them more toward the center of the bore as well as bending them up just a little bit from the bottom. Isn't the squirter designed partially to lubricate the wristpin? not only to spray on the piston/walls.

The wiseco package has a bright orange piece of paper that tells you that **** it going to hit if you don't do anything. I really dont see how someone could put together a motor; turn it over by hand and NOT see/feel the squirters hitting.

DJ Gurgla GSR

"I, like you, decided I would rather have them then not."

Its peace of mind. you can run without them, but its not gonna hurt. kinda the conclusion i came to

"I had to bend them more toward the center of the bore as well as bending them up just a little bit from the bottom"

That is EXACTLY what i had to do. not much room to play in there but that was it. **** it toward the center of the bore, then bend the actual tip up at the piston pin.

vtecmissle

ls motors dont have them and they boost well on factory pistons. They are not needed at all. Forged pistons dont need them and i have never seen a ls vtec fail because they didnt have them.

powerofdreams8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecmissle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls motors dont have them and they boost well on factory pistons. They are not needed at all. Forged pistons dont need them and i have never seen a ls vtec fail because they didnt have them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great input buddy; Your mindless regurgitation added nothing to the thread. How exactly would you tell that a LSVTEC failed as a result of not having oil squirters?

vtecmissle

how many fail at all. Wheres your input. Use your ******* head. If there was a problem not having the squirters then there would be a high failure rate. Golden eagle also wouldnt be selling squirter block offs either. Also if there were oiling problems a competant builder could tell if the pins were gauled from poor lubrication or the pistons seized in the bores as a result of the same. And if the oil pressure was good that would mean it wasnt the pump. Go figure.

g2_teg_

can somebody explain to me why the forged pistons do not need the oil squirters? or direct me to where that information can be found, please?

PHDZINE

You don't need oil squirters with aftermarket pistons. My car was a daily driver for three years and had no problems. I think it can only benefit from blocking them of because you have more oil pressure and volume going to other important components in you block