dinko

car is a 99 Civic DX
motor is a obd1 b18c1
obd2b to obd1 jumper harness to chipped p28 neptuned

the motor was rebuilt and ran great in my old EJ2 coupe

im pretty confident i hooked up all the sensors correctly and pinned up all the extra plugs and wires i needed to run (stock harness, i had to add vtec wires). i followed the ff-squad website write-up and i had help in another thread i created. you can look at that thread here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2203580

the car has spark. fuel pump comes on. all 4 cylinders and plugs are bone dry = no fuel. the only code the car is throwing is a #10 which is IAT sensor. replaced the sensor, but no luck there. car cranks over fine, but just wont kick on.

i went back to the ff-squad instructions and it said something about an "immobilizer" (IMM) unit. if i don't remove it my car wont start. i had no clue what that is. i don't even know if my ECU has it. the moving of the pin from A15 to A16 was done by previous owner as he had a DOHC swap in there and running fine.

here are the ff-squad instructions. thanks for any help in advance.

Dinko

dinko

sleepy time bump.

dinko

morning bump

gabebauman

I think the <FONT COLOR="darkgreen">GREEN TURD</FONT> is just cursed and hates OBD1 motors.

Good luck buddy. One week to go.

dinko

yeah im just kinda stumped cuz i took my time makin sure the harness was done correctly.

dinko

doin a lil searching and p28's don't have immobilizer...

why the hell am i not getting fuel? should i switch the a15 pin back to a16? i've learned a lot bout wiring by tackling this myself but im still [freak]in clueless...

GimpyAccord

Got +12V to the injectors when key is on (on the yellow/black wire that each injector has)? I'm going to take a wild stab in the dark that you don't.

dinko

adi told me to try the same. i will let you know. thanks gimp

Katman

you don't need to be concernicus about any kind of immobilizer because your not using an 00-01 integra ECU. 00-01 Integra ecu's are the only integra ecu's that are immobilizer equipped. All 88-00 civic ecu's are immobilizer-less.

So you have a code 10 (IAT) still eh? perhaps you have the wrong sensor plugged into the IAT plug.

Are you sure you're reading the code correctly too? one long blink = 10. Is that what you're reading?

you don't need to perform the fuel pump relay pinout swap because, again, you're not using an 00-01 OBD2b integra ecu per the instructions in the diagram
So if you've done this mod, put it back to how it was before.

Blown90hatcH

You can always jumper the A15 and A16....but in your case of a civic....you don't need to do that swap. Also, since you are throwing code 10...you sure you have the correct sensor plugged in there?

dinko

checked all fuses today, they're good.

battery has 12v

injectors seem to have power...it's a lil weird though the meter says -11.xxv (yup that's minus) and not 12v. (same meter on my old car read -4.5v for TPS sensor and thats how i dialed it in. it never wanted to go over to the positive volts. it showed normal 12.xx volts on the battery today though...)

i have a friend coming over a lil later today. gonna try his obd2 ecu without the jumper harness. also gonna try his main relay if that doesn't work.

we cranked it plenty times today while tryin to check the injectors but top of pistons are still bone dry.

fuel filter and fuel rail are getting fuel.

i'll post a lil later.


Modified by dinko at 3:20 PM 3/29/2008

superfast666

maybe the injectors are bad

dinko

true but the probability of all four RC injectors failing at the same time is pretty slim i think. especially since those injectors have less than 5k miles on them...

dinko

swapped the main relay with a running EM1, but still didn't start. i put my main relay in his car to make sure it works and it does.

also tried his obd2 ecu in my car (w/o jumper harness, duh) and the fuel pump wouldn't even come on (with both his and my main relay)

checked the voltage on his injector clips and they were a steady 14.xx....my car is -11.xx while cranking

next step anybody?

Blown90hatcH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">checked the voltage on his injector clips and they were a steady 14.xx....my car is -11.xx while cranking

next step anybody? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Turn your leads around. Are you injectors saturated or peak/hold? Did you do any injector wiring?

dinko

i already pulled the harness out. i will take some detailed pics of the wires i cut out before i dropped it in (one of them is IAT sensor go figure hah) but when i cut them the reasoning was logical to me hah.

i checked the injector wiring the colored wires lead back to the ecu uninterrupted. the yellow/black wires from the injectors leads back to the capped off "distribution" plug on the back of the motor and that whole plug is untouched. there is a similar "distribution" plug in the same location and i did cut some wires off of it though. the only sensors i cut off was 2 oxygen and 2 iat sensors but i had nowhere to plug them in and i already have an iat sensor on my intake manifold. my ecu is tuned so it doesn't look for any oxygen. i kept all the sensors though, thank god.

detailed pics to follow later tonight/tomorrow morning. im beat for right now. thanks for your help.

dinko

i will add some more pics later of my wiring mess as this is not all the wires that are cut.

there are some on one of the "distribution" plugs on the harness that is located towards the back of the block. the wires cut are mostly green/black and black/white or black/yellow on that plug. i also have another brown "distribution" plug right by the ecu that is capped off. i have one brown/black wire there that is cut there. like i said i will get pics of the rest later.

perseverance

hmm...if it's reading negative than the injector wires are backwards. do a continuity test from ground(-) on ur bat terminal to the injector power wire. it shouldn't beep when it's on, if it is then it's backwards. also do the continuity test on the gnd wire of the injectors. if it doesn't beep, then ur missing a ground. did u install the ground on the thermostat? i've done this swap many times, and the only prob i've had was trying to use obd2 injectors and it clogged up my fuel rail....thus not starting. put my obd1 injectors back in and it was good to go. the iat on your ek harness is different than the iat on an obd1. you have to splice into the harness or use the ek iat.

dinko

i matched the yellow/black to yellow/black for the injectors, then i matched up the colors

#1 brown
#2 red
#3 blue
#4 yellow

i thought that was pretty straight forward....

dinko

help. more pics comin tonight!

gabebauman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More pics comin tonight! </TD></TR></TABLE>

?? Can't wait to see this thing on the road.

dinko

alright here we go boys hope these pics are enough.

first off we have the green plug by the ecu. 2 wires were cut. the red/yellow and the white/black. you can also see the thicker white/red wire sticking out in the second picture. that wire splits off into two wires. one of them is a really thick wire and the other wire is a brown/black. only the thick wire was cut.





then there is the brown plug. one wire was cut.



then we have the blue plug.

here is what i was talking about like on the green plug where the wire splits. this blue/red wire splits into a thick brown and a brown/black. only the thick brown was cut on this one.


in these two pics you can see white/red, red/yellow, and black/white were cut.


in this pic the top right wire (all white, right above the blue/red) is wired for vtec. i didn't have an extra pin so i looked at the schemetics and de-pinned the pin next to it which is for a CKPM. i didn't think my ecu checked for this...


and finally here is the big "distribution" plug that was cut.







if someone can take the time and please please please help me out with this and tell me what i did wrong, i would greatly appreciate it. i'd also be willing to make a small donation to your paypal account if your expertise lends itself to me starting my car

darrinbrewer

iTrader: (1)

what about this:

obd1 gsr motors dont have the crank sensor by the oil pump, its in the dizzy.

that 99-00 harness your cutting on DOES have the crank sensor connection down by the oil pump, the computer needs to see the cranking of the motor to start, right?

do yo u have a loose hanging plug over by the alternator that isnt connected?

i dont know what year dizzy your using, but if this sensor(whether it be oil pump, or internal dizzy mounted) isnt sending to the computer , its not gonna send fuel.

theres a note at the bottom of the picture you posted up top, about 2 to 3 wire Crank sensor...did you ever add a 96+ oil pump and sensor to your obd1 gsr motor? if so just match the 2 wires and go.

oh, and when you get to iacv wiring, the car will drive and buck like crazy at very light throttle, if it isnt right, you'll know it.

hope this helps

edit some info and a quick fix possibly

http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1029958

and make sure to read https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=558245


Modified by darrinbrewer at 8:35 PM 4/3/2008


Modified by darrinbrewer at 8:37 PM 4/3/2008

Blown90hatcH

That is the CKF (crank flux sensor) that is located near the crank and is only on some OBD2 configurations and is not required since he is running the OBD1 ecu setup. It is not the CYP or CKP sensors which are in the distributor.

See my comments below regarding what they go to. You should re-install these to the corresponding wires on the OBD2 C plug as applicable.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then there is the brown plug. one wire was cut.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Confirm that you have continuity to ground through these BRown/white stripe wires in the brown plug. WOrse case, ground that cut brown wire. You should also confirm if you have continuity to OBD2 B connector....locations B20 and B22 for the Brown/White stripe wires. The Brown/Blk stripe wires are grounds on the brown plug. They go to CYP, TDC, CKP(All used for shielding for the most part), CKF (not used on OBD1), Knock sensor (shielding), PRimary and Secondary O2 sensors (shielding), ONe goes to a direct chassis ground.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then we have the blue plug. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is your OBD2b "C" Plug into your ECU.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is what i was talking about like on the green plug where the wire splits. this blue/red wire splits into a thick brown and a brown/black. only the thick brown was cut on this one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The brown wire is a ground wire used to shield the CKFP wire(Blue/Red stripe). Since it is not needed on the OBD1 setup, you can just heat shrink it shut or rehook it in the original location.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in these two pics you can see white/red, red/yellow, and black/white were cut.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The White/Red stripe is located in location C31. IT goes to the CKFM and is not needed for the OBD1 setup. HEat shrink it off. The REd/Yellow stripe is located in C25 and that is for your IAT (intake air temp). It is obviously needs to be reconnected. The Black/White stripe is located in C1 and goes to your Primary O2 sensor heated control. IT needs to be reconnected if you are running a stock ECU.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in this pic the top right wire (all white, right above the blue/red) is wired for vtec. i didn't have an extra pin so i looked at the schemetics and de-pinned the pin next to it which is for a CKPM. i didn't think my ecu checked for this...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct. CKPM was located at C9 and you need to leave this. This is different than the CKFM. The C10 location is for the Vtec pressure switch.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and finally here is the big "distribution" plug that was cut.





</TD></TR></TABLE>


The Green/Blk stripe on the distribution plug are grounds as well. They go to various sensors...ECT, IAT, TPS, EGR, Primary O2 sensor, Fuel tank pressure sensor. They all direct into the ecu at OBD2 C18 (SG2). The Black/Yellow stripe wires are power wires and the primary O2, Secd O2, VSS, Evap purge, Ecu plug location D5, Under dash fuse box[/B]




Modified by Blown90hatcH at 5:46 PM 4/8/2008

dinko

I don't have any loose plugs by the alternator. I made sure to plug in all the plugs that were plugged in when my motor was running in my EJ2. there are no excess plugs...

since my ecu is obd1, i didn't think i needed the CKPM by the oil pump, that's why i pulled that pin out so i could use it to pin my vtec wire. there's no plug by the oil pump anyways... after looking at the links you've provided, i think i need to go back and read more on the CKF trick. i'm just a little confused because the how-to is all talking about obd2 motor into an obd2 car and my situation is obd1 motor into obd2 car. like i said i will go back and read again.