-DC2-

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EDIT 4/29/08

apparently there is an adaptor available specifically for what this thread is attempting to cover without having to flare the OEM hard line. no need for purchasing a flaring tool.

thanks to '$ugarFree' for posting it here


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the OEM banjo style fittings suck ***, and restrict fuel flow a LOT. this is how you convert your OEM feed to a braided line.


stuff you need to know:
- the EF/EG OEM fuel filter and fuel rail banjo bolt threads (on top of filter) are 12mm x 1.25. EK botton connection is M14x1.5
- the OEM hard line fuel feed is 5/16" outer diameter which is an odd -5an size
- it's easiest to use an EF civic OEM fuel filter as it has both the inlet and outlet on the top of the filter facing up with M12mmx1.25 threads
- don't mix stainless and alum fittings
- if you want to install an earl's inline filter, i covered that down below


general AN info, sizing and tech here:
http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html

PARTS LIST:
here's the parts you need to convert the feed line to a braided line (all can be had on summitracing.com). this does NOT include what you need to go from the filter to the rail with braided line, but the concept is the same:

all are summitracing.com part #s and prices:

(1) -5 an tube sleeve ($1.50) - EAR-581905ERL


(1) -5 an tube nut ($3.25) - EAR-581805ERL


(1) -5 an male to -6 an male reducer ($5.69) - EAR-991907ERL


(2) -6 an hose ends ($4.25ea= $8.50) - SUM-220690


(1) 1.5 feet of -6 an braided hose ($7.69) - SUM-G1001


(1) -6 an male to 12mm x 1.25 carb adaptor with crush washer ($6.95) - EAR-991945ERL


(1) 90deg -6 an female to male coupler ($13.50) - EAR-921106ERL


(1) 37degree tube flaring kit ($34.95) - SUM-900311


(1) small tube cutter ($6.99) - SUM-900500
local auto parts store or:


misc crap:
1. something to catch the fuel from the old filter
2. a sheet of fine (800-1000) grit wet/dry sandpaper

if you have to buy the flare kit (i did) and a tubing cutter total is:
~$80

add another $12-18 for a new EF civic fuel filter. it's too bad the damn flare kit is so expensive... it's almost half the cost of the project

prep the braided line for install by installing hose ends and tightening. check this link for swivel seal end install instructions.
map out the install in the engine bay to make sure you understand exactly where things need to be placed


THE INSTALL PROCESS:
1. remove the OEM fuel filter
2. cut the OEM feed hard line with a tube cutter at a point that is easily acessible and is PERFECTLY straight after the cut point for a MINIMUM of 2"

i bolded it because this it crucial. the sleeve does have ANY give in it, and it will NOT fit around any type of bend.

NOTES: if there is a ridge left from cutting the line, use the sandpaper to sand it out. the tube MUST be perfectly straight and without any bends in order for the sleeve to slide on.

3. slide the -5 an tube nut over the hard line with threads facing the cut
4. slide -5 an tube sleeve over hose end with wide portion facing the cut
5. flare the end of the tube with the 37degree kit using the 5/16" adaptor.

NOTES: this is best done with the engine out as space is cramped. i actually was able to get it done with an H22 installed in my EK. when actually performing the flare, if you have never flared a tube before, pick up a small piece of tubing from a parts store an practice. the OEM line is very hard, and it will take some "love" to get a full flare. make sure you flare it all the way until the cut end is sandwiched between the flare cone and the tubing holder.

after you flare it, the tube will likely be a bit distorted. use the sandpaper to clean up the scratches left from the tubing holder before attempting #6.

6. slide the tube sleeve and nut up to the flare, and thread on to the -5an/-6an reducer to the -5an side. if the tube sleeve is getting stuck near the flare, grab the nut, pull it over the sleeve, and use the nut to force the sleeve up to the flare.

my spiffy MS paint diagram:


7. connect the -6an end of the reducer to the braided line
8. install the EF civic fuel filter
9. install the -6an to 12mmX1.25 adaptor into the fuel inlet side on the filter using a new crush washer
10. install the -6an female to male 90deg bend on the adaptor
11. install the other end of the braided line on the 90deg bend adaptor
12. install a fuel feed line from the filter to the rail
13. snug everything down, but do NOT over-tighten as the alum fittings will strip
14. prime the fuel pump 3 times to bring the system to full pressure
15. check for leaks

finished pics. obviously, my next step is to replace the line from the filter to the rail.



yes, there is teflon tape on the threads, that's the white. no, it's not necessary for AN fittings, bit i was being **** about that connection. fuel should never even get to the threads, nut or sleeve



NOTE: after the install, i did have some fuel weepage between the hard line and the tube sleeve. i was concerned initially that i didn't flare it perfectly. however, i just realized that i didn't tighten down that connection enough. so, after fanagaling another 1/2 turn out of the nut, the weepage went away.



Modified by -DC2- at 8:57 PM 4/29/2008

nerdsports

great writeup

however, why not get rid of the honda fuel filter and run something like an Earl's inline filter?? then run all -6 lines to the fuel rail???

Chase

Dude GREAT write up. This is a seriouussss FAQ here. I will be doing this soon, cept i will be using a earl's inline fuel filter! for you!

donut.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great writeup

however, why not get rid of the honda fuel filter and run something like an Earl's inline filter?? then run all -6 lines to the fuel rail???</TD></TR></TABLE>

my thoughts exactly. not to mention, they're cleanable

-DC2-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">however, why not get rid of the honda fuel filter and run something like an Earl's inline filter?? then run all -6 lines to the fuel rail???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, i plan to eventually. cost was a factor for me, so i didn't do it all.

nerdsports

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yep, i plan to eventually. cost was a factor for me, so i didn't do it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

gotcha

thanks a lot. this definitely helps out a lot of people who were curious about doing this.

-DC2-

here's how to convert the OEM line from the filter, to the rail

first step is to prep the fuel rail

1. most OEM rails have a fuel input "shaft" with a banjo fitting connecter and a nut on top, sandwiching the banjo fitting between crush washers. some have an actual bolt that threads into the fuel rail. if you have the first style, you need to remove that shaft by un-threading it from the rail.

NOTE: if it's a "shaft" style, it's a BITCH to get out. it's hardened steel, and on there very tight. you will need to remove the fuel rail from the engine, and use a large/strong set of vice grips to get it to turn. i actually ended up putting a hardened allen wrench through the hole in the shaft, and then using vice grips to increase the gripping strength.



the threaded hole remaining is M12x1.25. convienently, you can use the same fitting mentioned above to convert 12mmx1.25 to -6an

(1) -6 an male to 12mm x 1.25 carb adaptor with crush washer ($6.95) - EAR-991945ERL


that's about it. if you want to opt for a -6 an inline filter, they can be had for about $30 on summitracing. then just plumb like on the input side with -6an hose and hose ends.

if you have a B&M style FPG, or you want to add one, just use an adaptor like this:
6 AN Male to -6 AN Male, 1/ 8 in. NPT Gauge Port - RUS-670000 ($6.95)


it's easy to get it all plumbed once you have the OEM hard line and the fuel rail converted to an AN fitting


Modified by DOHCDX at 5:51 PM 12/3/2005


Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 2:16 PM 1/6/2006


Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 12:47 PM 1/7/2006

-DC2-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks a lot. this definitely helps out a lot of people who were curious about doing this. </TD></TR></TABLE>

n/p. i actually kinda "had to". the guy who did the swap in my car (previous owner) hacked the install... literally... by cutting the hard line, throwing a rubber hose on it with worm clamps which allowed him to relocate the fuel filter slightly. so, to not have to worry about that hose blowing off at 8k rpms under 50-55psi fuel pressure, i opted to do it the right way

Chase

bumpin cuz this write up rocks

Chase

If i were to get the Earl's inline fuel filter 85 micron...would i get the screen filter or the sintered bronze element???

ShawnR

im going to attempt doing it this weekend

-DC2-

i can answer after xmas, cause my mother in law got me an earls inline filter and the rest of the stuff to finish my setup

best bet is to call summit

skunked

Great writeup

I bought my flare tool for $9 buck at the local auto store and $10 for the pipe cutter at Home Depot

-DC2-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great writeup

I bought my flare tool for $9 buck at the local auto store</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did the same.. but it was a 45deg kit. you MUST have a 37 deg kit... and most stores don't have them

JDMEK206

nice write-up. question tho...i thought u aren't supposed to use teflon tape on fuel connections. Something about the connection getting contaminated.

-DC2-

no need for flared connection fittings

if you have a square or threads only seal, then yes, it is required (on a fuel pressure gauge)... like this:




earl's makes no mention whatsoever to teflon tape in installation
http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html

Stars

awesome writeup

it helped me a lot, going to take pics once everyone comes in

civic_speed99

Great Write up, I was just going to replace my filer tomorrow. Maybe I'll wait and get the stuff to do this too.

vtecmissle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCvtecDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yep, i plan to eventually. cost was a factor for me, so i didn't do it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but is the cost of the tubing flare kit comparable to the filter if so it wouldnt cost any more .

Tippyman

nice write-up! if you bought the earl's filter do you need the flaring kit?

-DC2-

yes, you need to flare the feed hardline from the tank. the type of filter you use has no affect on it. you have to flare that line.

-DC2-

here's how mine ended up after the earls filter install (yes, it's dirty, i know)




Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 9:06 AM 7/20/2006

vtecmissle

i saw somewhere on here where someone drilled out the fitting on the tank and retapped the hole to run the line all the way back

not so JDM Dan

thats what i was looking for

-DC2-