baonest1

i hand tightened mine and ended up f*ckin up one of the studs.. ARP sent me another one free and the second time i double nut'd them and it worked great.

riceboyEFsi

r u leaking water or oil , i thought i had the same problem but my vtec solenoid needed to be removed and needed a new filter and gasket i put some hondabond in and retorqued and i was good 2 go . Also what dizzy. u usin ? The reason i ask is because Ls dizzys used on vtec heads leak like a s.o.b.

sparkz

is the head milled any?

B18EG6

well better late than never....


heres my story, I hand tightened the studs in, and ended up not torqueing the nuts down to spec (please dont ask)... when i removed the head 500 miles later, I was able to almost pull one of the head studs out because it backed out. or i didnt tighten it enough.

i just double nutted the studs in to 25 ft/lbs... its real easy and takes little time. uses a 7/16" 20 nut.

hope this helps

smokey2.0

i read the post twice, and i didn't see you mention wich head gasket you used. i might just be too tired, and missed it! if you're using an ls gasket, it will leak! right now i'm using a b20z head gasket, with two layers on my b16 head and gsr arp head studs. to this date, i have no leaks! before i had a gsr head on the block, with a b20z 2 layer head gasket and the arp studs and that leaked oil. but the reason it did(in the same area as yours is leaking) was because of a poorly done tap and sealing on the oil passage on the head! it leaked bad, i change the head gasket to a stock b20, and it still leaked! if you're not using a b20 gasket, try it! also with the b20 gasket you can keep the rear rings on the head gasket!

3rdGteg

Why's that? I'm not saying you r right or wrong, I would just like to know how/why?

CRXGSR

The head gasket I'm using is the OEM Honda 3 layer B20B 84mm head gasket. The arp studs, were double nutted to "seat" them down.
And I'm using the b16a distributor for the b16a head.
I already replaced the vtec solenoid gasket with a new one. (I've heard that the 2nd gen b16a vtec solenoid filter/gaskets are slightly different shape and don't seat right. But this is not where it's leaking).
And yes, I had the head decked/milled.

I think I've done everything correct so for. Anywayz, I'm gonna this do one last time. I'm going to try and use a cometic gasket with some hondabond around the oil passage area. If that don't work, I'm gonna put another motor in.

riceboyEFsi

Think about it u need to chop a leg off it to make it work , right there your losing 1 bolt that mounts up and the other leg isnt even close to lining up, so u have 1 bolt holding this dizzy on out of what is supposed to be 3 . The only bolt there is the top 1 . You gotta tighten it alot so it dont flop around, but by doing that it just makes the torque sequence uneven and the bottom of the dizzy more vulnerable to leak . Im also speaking from true experience

Jeff C

I have done 2 w/o problems. I just bought new o-rings first though.

0F1Spec

Did you try copper gasket spray? My engine builder used that on his
turbo b20/vtec and no oil leak. and used it on my LS/VTEC and no oil leak.

3rdGteg

That's weird cuz my first ls dizzy on my b16 head did not leak a damn drop for about 3yrs and I had to replace it with another ls dizzy(because the internal sensors became screwed) and this one seems to be leaking from under/around the dizzy and I didn't believe it and keep loooking elsewhere for the source of the leak; but thanks to the above posts, I think I might've found my problem. So I guess I just have to replace the o-ring around the dizzy's shaft right?

giooooo

im having the same problem but i have an ls block with first gen b16 head with arp gsr head studs.. i hand tightened them.. the leak is coming from the head under the distributor side you can see a whole bunch of oil right in between the block and tranny and the area where you can see the numbers of the head gaster taht sticks out.. im gonna try to retorque my head studs .. im a dummy how do you double nut ?? put another nut on top of a nut and torque??

tinkerbell

you aint so dumb really...

it is just how it sounds, the bottom nut locks the top nut and you get to torque it down...

i really do reckon these problems are due to improper seating of the ARP studs, but only a few guys have confirmed it...

make sure the studs when installed are all equal lenght sticking out of the block

any that are too high need to be 'double nutted' down...

t..

giooooo

i have to take out my head this weekend hey do i still need to use that arp moly stuff?? im 100% its not the plug tap.. hopefully i can jsut retoque them down with out taking out the head..

3rdGteg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giovannie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;quote:&lt;HR&gt; put another nut on top of a nut and torque??

you aint so dumb really...

it is just how it sounds, the bottom nut locks the top nut and you get to torque it down...

i really do reckon these problems are due to improper seating of the ARP studs, but only a few guys have confirmed it...

make sure the studs when installed are all equal lenght sticking out of the block

any that are too high need to be 'double nutted' down...

t..&lt;HR&gt;&lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;

i have to take out my head this weekend hey do i still need to use that arp moly stuff?? im 100% its not the plug tap.. hopefully i can jsut retoque them down with out taking out the head..</TD></TR></TABLE>I'd pull the head off anyway and spray some of that copper spray stuff on there then retorque it while you've got those studs off.

giooooo

ill try taht this weekend i guess i have to wait on a new head gasket again..... ohh and do i have to put taht arp moly crap again??

0F1Spec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s2geezy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you try copper gasket spray? My engine builder used that on his
turbo b20/vtec and no oil leak. and used it on my LS/VTEC and no oil leak.

&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;quote:&lt;HR&gt;&lt;HR&gt;&lt ;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use copper gasket spray. You get them in a can from the auto parts store.
They work! Also lube your studs again. Keep the lubed so they dont strip
the thread.

tinkerbell

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giovannie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill try taht this weekend i guess i have to wait on a new head gasket again..... ohh and do i have to put taht arp moly crap again??</TD></TR></TABLE>

that moly crap is important as it makes the nuts and washers torque properly...

use a fair bit of it too... you should clean the threads and nuts too before you you do it too

t..

3rdGteg

Or if you're all out of the moly crap, you can use regular motor oil also to torque them down

smokey2.0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or if you're all out of the moly crap, you can use regular motor oil also to torque them down </TD></TR></TABLE>

just remember, that you'll need to torque the bolts to a higher # with oil compared to the moly. last i checked, oil was 85 ftlbs, and moly was 65ftlbs(on gsr)!

giooooo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just remember, that you'll need to torque the bolts to a higher # with oil compared to the moly. last i checked, oil was 85 ftlbs, and moly was 65ftlbs(on gsr)!</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks guys hopefully ill fix my leak next week since i have to order a new head gasket.. arghgh more downtime..i dont really mind the leak at all buit its leaking in between the tranny and block so oil goes right in the crack of the trans and block and oil will get in the clutch aread and that is bad

irev210

im starting to feel very lucky, I opened up my valve reliefs in my garage with a dremel, then popped the pistons out and carefully cleaned everything, then reassembled and torqued to spec. I didnt modify my B20 OEM headgasket at all, I didnt change the rod bolts, I used GSR ARP head studs, hand tightened... then torqued to 67ft/lbs using ARP moly lube using helms torque sequence, 33ft/lbs first, then to 67. And rev freely to 8200... so far 6k miles on the swap...

Good luck, CRVTEC owns...

CRXGSR

Okay, well my engine seems to still be leaking. But I don't think it's the head gasket anymore (after milling the head). I think it's leaking where the vtec plug is. I already used to high temp thread sealer on it, and it still leaks. I guess I'll have to drill and re-tap with a new plug. Where you guyz get your plugs?

Jeff C

I got mine from a auto parts/hot rod parts store. Just a regular brass plug. I cant remember what exact size it is though.

EDIT: Where does it seem to be leaking exactly? Are you reusing the headgasket each time that you have taken the head off?

0F1Spec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, well my engine seems to still be leaking. But I don't think it's the head gasket anymore (after milling the head). I think it's leaking where the vtec plug is. I already used to high temp thread sealer on it, and it still leaks. I guess I'll have to drill and re-tap with a new plug. Where you guyz get your plugs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure you drill and tap the oil hole right. also use liquied telfon, not the
type one. it will seal it. i never have a problem with my b16a head leaking oil
from the oil hole. if you're not sure if you gonna do it right, have a machine
shop do it.