colt45.5

Car runs fine.

One day i turn it off. Go to turn it on, let the pump prime, the engine light goes off, and click it goes to start then. Nothing

tightended the terminals down. and the grounds.

Go to start, nothing no power at all nothing.

so i push the hazard button. theres a little clicking. I push it like 300 times in 1 minute and the hazards start to flash and the lights come on and all. Turn it on, pump primes and everything looks normal. Hit the ignition, god damnit. back to the no power ****.

What could this be. Its like the battery is done, but ive never seen one like this. Its been driven around alot. And never had voltage lights. If it werent 15 degrees out and raining id probably swap batteries and honda-jesus it. But Im taking suggestions, so i can run out, fix it, and run in. haha.

98 civic coupe
95 b18c1

colt45.5

goooo.

Still no idea.

Shitty

colt45.5

Im thinking it could be a focked relay someplace?

I really dont have any idea

v-attack

iTrader: (1)

The same thing has happened to me, I get in to my car after letting it sit for 15 mins, try to start it and it clicks, try some other elec. items, and they work, try to start it a couple more times, then realize the battery took a crap. All of the electronics, especially the windows were working very slowly.
I replaced the battery, and it was fine and still is.

Also check the small rubber insulated slide on connector at the end of the starter, it is right next to the main power supply (heavy gauge wire) on the end of the starter. That wire could be loose for some reason.

yellow_jacket

This is a fairly typical problem with cars that have a bad connection at the battery. Also tends to happen with battery cables that are going bad. Instead of just tightening the terminals down, take them off and clean them.

Qfactor

this is the main relay blues. hairline cracks at solder joints(not all). crack it open and resolder the joints.

colt45.5

You think..

Its not like it doesnt get power to start or the fuel pump. Its like NO POWER at all. like the battery is toasted.

I mean i came home to the focking hazard lights flashing, i guess i didnt notice the button was pushed i pressed it so many times with nothing happening. Then i come back to it all working, go to turn it off and it was allready off.

Its got to be a wiring issue. Or yes this main relay is making sence.

colt45.5

Im thinking now.

I live in ohio, its 13 degrees outside.

I have n1 suspension on pretty stiff, and these riceboy 17 inch wheels currently. With potholes and my gocart ride maybe i did crack some **** in the main relay? make sence. Or maybe im not following you and what you mean about that.

It was my first assumption. I just thought if it was bad i still would get voltage to turn on my damn headlights or even hit the keyless entry. I guess i need to trace the chart tho.

fulldragcrx

if you turn on the key and wait for the check engine light to go out then odds are your main relay is fine, id start with a known good battery.

PHiZ

The fuel pump won't prime with a bad main relay. And the main relay can operate intermittantly, making the problem hard to diagnose.
-PHiZ

ELHatchyBlanco

I'm having the same problem, the only thing that works at all is the hazards. And after 2 or 3 days the car will start out of nowhere. My car used to have a kill switch but the switch was taking off but all the wires remain, and the relay to da kill switch is fried (maybe because of a new radio that was connectd to a different power source b/c the stock wires were cut bad). I'm cleaning the battery cables, but where/how can I check the main relay. It has also been really cold up here in NY.

PHiZ

yeah, the main relay is pretty heat/cold sensitive, another poster already hit the nail on the head, thermal expansion/contraction can cause cracks in the solder, do some searches it is somewhat common.

Here is some info.

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/C...9.pdf

-PHiZ

colt45.5

See this is why i ******* love honda tech.

Without u fuggers, i would be out there in my little caveman outfit in sub arctic weather toying with all the ****.

Where do i look for this toilet relay at? Now ive had a relay go out before and the lights and stuff still work. Now nothing at all works. Its like total dead. No power at all, then intermittenly the power will work, the pump will prime, and it still doesnt have enough to start. it just clicks and goes back to totally dead.

So where do i look to start fixin? The main relay? Take the glovebox down and its in that area correct? Just swap it with a well known one for starters/.

NH88TSI

You said you tighten your battery terminals. But did you check the condition of then. Could have a corrision problem as well, check the main relay like they said and check battery connection could just have excessive resistance due to corrison.

v-attack

iTrader: (1)

A static battery test will also tell the if you have excessive corrosion on ur battery. Negative lead on negative terminal and postive lead on case (plastic top) of battery. Should be close to 0 if not.

colt45.5

my battery and terminals are aok

colt45.5

A little more barable temp outside today so i messed with the car some. 12 volts at battery. 12 volts at starter. 12volts at fuse box

Drove the car for a month, now it has NO power at all. No lights, no anything. All after driving one day. no battery light nothing. Headlights seemed a bit dim before. I think thats the grounds on them tho up front.

Anyone have any advice on what relays to look for and grounds. I checked the ones on the floor and seat rail area. as well as the ones behind the dash by the hood release. What functions does the ground behind the center console ground out? Im kinda stumped here. Im looking for a (Main Wire Harness Right branch G403) ground. Its located near the fuse box i believe. Anyhow could a ground of that sort be an issue to not have lights or anything in the car? Im pretty sure most of that stuff worked when i had it apart. However this car had a totally stripped front end for the paintwork i did to id. ie ..paint underhood champion white.

the problem seems to be intermittent but, its at the negative side of intermittent. Meaning it rarely works at this point. The car went to the start position, the pump primed and then it went out. For some reason out of the blue the hazard lights worked, now nothing at all works. Thats whats making the curiosity of what ground worked like this? Or what relay. Ive had a bad main relay but if i recall all it did was not prime the fuel pump, however the dash lights and all other power was not effected.

v-attack

iTrader: (1)

First, try good known battery. Just because voltage is somewhat proper, doesnt mean it can handle the amp. draw you are putting on it. Pretty easy fix to get out of the way.
By the book static battery voltage should be 12.75, and approx. 13.8- 14.4 running.

PHiZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v-attack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
By the book static battery voltage should be 12.75, and approx. 13.8- 14.4 running. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that is backwards.
-PHiZ

colt45.5

I tried a differant battery and no change still. Its as if a fuse blew or a relay is finished. However what relay or fuse supplies all power to everything inside the car such as hazard lights and headlight and running lights?
Where should one try to begin investigating.

Before this all occured when i first reassembled from being salvaged the fuel pump fuse was blown. What causes somthing like that to blow in the first place?

OTT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v-attack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By the book static battery voltage should be 12.75, and approx. 13.8- 14.4 running. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think that is backwards.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope.

v-attack

iTrader: (1)

I dont really know how that could be backwards.
Static means at rest or not being used currently. No loads other than quiescent draw. ( should be in mA )
And running means with the aid of the alternator so, voltage in a proper running vehicle should go up.

Colt45, I would take a look at some wiring diagrams next, figure out which fuses/relays supply which circuits with power at what time. Decide where you problem doesnt lay largely, and start with areas it could.

colt45.5

sweet. Well i need to find a trans for a 98 3.2tl auto as well since my daily driver always breaks at the exact same time as my other car.

Any ideas. Since i see you are a salvage dealer.

v-attack

iTrader: (1)

I will mention to a local body shop.

colt45.5

new underhood paintjob = no ground.

Fixed.

Thanks for everyones help.