h2b kit instruction on how to install the tranny
11-16-2006, 09:20 PM
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h2b kit instruction on how to install the tranny
i was thinking of doing this but its sound like its not worth the money...
http://www.quartersportsdrag.c...s.htm
information provide by quartersportsdrag.com
These series of steps are presented in the order each should be performed and begin with the engine and transmission out of the car. Please take your time to read everything provided. - QSD
Page 1 - Contents & Notes
Page 2 - Flywheel Spacer
Page 3 - Engine Adapter Plate
Page 4 - Engine Adapter Plate
Page 5 - Intermediate Axle
Page 6 - Engine Mount / Clutch Slave
Page 7 - Frame-rail clearance
¨ Tasks
Ø Important Notes
Flywheel Spacer Installation
Ø Must be used with any aftermarket 6061 aluminum B-series flywheel.
¨ Thoroughly clean the check and flywheel bolt threads.
¨ Position the flywheel spacer between the crank and the flywheel. It will only go on one way matching the flywheel alignment pin.
Ø Use a high strength thread-locking compound and install the flywheel bolts. Follow Honda’s torque sequence first tighten bolts to 40 ft. lbs, then 65 ft lbs, and finish at 95 ft. lbs.
¨ Finish installing your clutch assembly following the manufactures procedures.
Engine Adapter Plate Installation
Ø Will require 4 OEM Honda alignment dowels.
Ø Grind off the small tab at the top of your H22 engine block. The engine adapter plate will not sit flush against the block until this is completed.
¨ Insert 2 alignment dowels into the engine. Use a touch of thread-locking compound on all alignment dowels.
¨ Place the aluminum adapter plate on the engine matching the dowel locations.
¨ The rear dowel protruding from the oval starter stud relief in the plate will need to be trimmed so that the starter head bolt may sit flush with the plate.
¨ Using a 8mm Hex-head socket, tighten the 4 supplied countersunk bolts securing the adapter plate to the engine. Torque each to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Fasten the 2 60mm bolts on the backside of the engine that secure directly into the adapter plate. One is directly to the left of the Transmission Intermediate Axle Output, and the other is higher up on the block. Tighten each to 37 ft. lbs.
¨ Insert 2 alignment dowels into the transmission.
Engine Adapter Plate Installation Continued…
¨ Insert the 10mm starter bolt through the backside of the transmission case with the head of the bolt facing the adapter plate. When the transmission and adapter plate are secured together the machined relief in the adapter plate will hold the bolt head.
¨ Align and insert the transmission input shaft within the clutch assembly. A second set of hands may be necessary to line up the starter bolt head with the relief in the adapter plate.
Ø Secure the transmission to the adapter plate starting with the 2 top followed by the 1 front 60mm bolts. Each of these bolts must be used with 2 washers. They are at length so they may be used with or without a Flywheel Scatter Shield. Tighten each to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Screw in the 2 short transmission bolts from the backside of the adapter plate. These 2 bolts will thread into the transmission case. Tightening each to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ From the backside of the engine screw in the short 12mm bolt located above the Intermediate Axle output. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Position the starter over the inserted stud and secure the nut to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Attach the corresponding B-series rear transmission “L Bracket”, and Insert the small aluminum spacer for the top eye mounting point. The spacer simply does not allow the bracket to pinch when tightened. Torque this bolt to 35 ft. lbs.
Intermediate Axle Installation
¨ Attach the intermediate axle adapter to the engine with the supplied 10mm bolts, tightening each to 30 ft. lbs. The adapter will detail the area on the block that will require massaging, also shown below:
Ø You will need to grind to a depth just above the oil pan bolt-holes. Remove the same extent from the lip of your oil pan and its gasket. Apply a small amount of gasket sealing compound around the area cut on the oil pan.
Ø Using a hammer and a punch, remove the dust cover from your B-series intermediate axle. Insert intermediate axle and test for fitment until clearance is obtained.
¨ Secure your B-series intermediate axle to the adapter with the 3-supplied 12MM bolt; torque each to 40 ft. lbs.
Engine Mount Installation
Ø The timing belt covers must be removed to install.
¨ Remove the OEM H22 cast engine bracket. Fasten our supplied bracket to the engine using the supplied 10mm bolts. Tighten each to 37 ft. lbs.
Hydraulic Transmission Spacer (EG DC EK)
Ø The OEM slave cylinder used on the 1994 up Hydraulic clutch driven transmission must be spaced to clear the larger H22 engine profile.
¨ Using a drill bit or a round metal file open up the 2 mounting holes in the slave cylinder so that the bolts may be inserted at a slight angle. The clutch slave cylinder fits inside the spacer. Tighten the 2 bolts to 20 ft. lbs.
Advise on frame-rail clearance
There are several ways to accomplish this task. The first component to contact the frame rail is the rear balancing shaft gear. To test fit your combination, remove this gear assembly as well as the crank pulley before you level the engine in the chassis.
To run an alternator you will have to notch or box the frame-rail for clearance. You can also customize your pulley but it does not allow the use of the balancing shaft assembly or the lower timing belt cover. Here is how you do it.
Remove the balancing shaft gear on the crank stem and slide the crank pulley inward. The balancing shaft gear will then need to be turned (machined) down so it may fit inside the front of the crank pulley. It will now act as a spacer in front of the crank pulley.
You need to relocate the alternator over the thickness of the balancing shaft gear. This can be done by cutting and spacing the alternator housing, or by completely relocating the alternator bracket. Some choose to lower the alternator when doing so. Running a B or D series alternator will assist with the clearance as their belts have fewer ribs which require less room for travel.
http://www.quartersportsdrag.c...s.htm
information provide by quartersportsdrag.com
These series of steps are presented in the order each should be performed and begin with the engine and transmission out of the car. Please take your time to read everything provided. - QSD
Page 1 - Contents & Notes
Page 2 - Flywheel Spacer
Page 3 - Engine Adapter Plate
Page 4 - Engine Adapter Plate
Page 5 - Intermediate Axle
Page 6 - Engine Mount / Clutch Slave
Page 7 - Frame-rail clearance
¨ Tasks
Ø Important Notes
Flywheel Spacer Installation
Ø Must be used with any aftermarket 6061 aluminum B-series flywheel.
¨ Thoroughly clean the check and flywheel bolt threads.
¨ Position the flywheel spacer between the crank and the flywheel. It will only go on one way matching the flywheel alignment pin.
Ø Use a high strength thread-locking compound and install the flywheel bolts. Follow Honda’s torque sequence first tighten bolts to 40 ft. lbs, then 65 ft lbs, and finish at 95 ft. lbs.
¨ Finish installing your clutch assembly following the manufactures procedures.
Engine Adapter Plate Installation
Ø Will require 4 OEM Honda alignment dowels.
Ø Grind off the small tab at the top of your H22 engine block. The engine adapter plate will not sit flush against the block until this is completed.
¨ Insert 2 alignment dowels into the engine. Use a touch of thread-locking compound on all alignment dowels.
¨ Place the aluminum adapter plate on the engine matching the dowel locations.
¨ The rear dowel protruding from the oval starter stud relief in the plate will need to be trimmed so that the starter head bolt may sit flush with the plate.
¨ Using a 8mm Hex-head socket, tighten the 4 supplied countersunk bolts securing the adapter plate to the engine. Torque each to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Fasten the 2 60mm bolts on the backside of the engine that secure directly into the adapter plate. One is directly to the left of the Transmission Intermediate Axle Output, and the other is higher up on the block. Tighten each to 37 ft. lbs.
¨ Insert 2 alignment dowels into the transmission.
Engine Adapter Plate Installation Continued…
¨ Insert the 10mm starter bolt through the backside of the transmission case with the head of the bolt facing the adapter plate. When the transmission and adapter plate are secured together the machined relief in the adapter plate will hold the bolt head.
¨ Align and insert the transmission input shaft within the clutch assembly. A second set of hands may be necessary to line up the starter bolt head with the relief in the adapter plate.
Ø Secure the transmission to the adapter plate starting with the 2 top followed by the 1 front 60mm bolts. Each of these bolts must be used with 2 washers. They are at length so they may be used with or without a Flywheel Scatter Shield. Tighten each to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Screw in the 2 short transmission bolts from the backside of the adapter plate. These 2 bolts will thread into the transmission case. Tightening each to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ From the backside of the engine screw in the short 12mm bolt located above the Intermediate Axle output. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Position the starter over the inserted stud and secure the nut to 35 ft. lbs.
¨ Attach the corresponding B-series rear transmission “L Bracket”, and Insert the small aluminum spacer for the top eye mounting point. The spacer simply does not allow the bracket to pinch when tightened. Torque this bolt to 35 ft. lbs.
Intermediate Axle Installation
¨ Attach the intermediate axle adapter to the engine with the supplied 10mm bolts, tightening each to 30 ft. lbs. The adapter will detail the area on the block that will require massaging, also shown below:
Ø You will need to grind to a depth just above the oil pan bolt-holes. Remove the same extent from the lip of your oil pan and its gasket. Apply a small amount of gasket sealing compound around the area cut on the oil pan.
Ø Using a hammer and a punch, remove the dust cover from your B-series intermediate axle. Insert intermediate axle and test for fitment until clearance is obtained.
¨ Secure your B-series intermediate axle to the adapter with the 3-supplied 12MM bolt; torque each to 40 ft. lbs.
Engine Mount Installation
Ø The timing belt covers must be removed to install.
¨ Remove the OEM H22 cast engine bracket. Fasten our supplied bracket to the engine using the supplied 10mm bolts. Tighten each to 37 ft. lbs.
Hydraulic Transmission Spacer (EG DC EK)
Ø The OEM slave cylinder used on the 1994 up Hydraulic clutch driven transmission must be spaced to clear the larger H22 engine profile.
¨ Using a drill bit or a round metal file open up the 2 mounting holes in the slave cylinder so that the bolts may be inserted at a slight angle. The clutch slave cylinder fits inside the spacer. Tighten the 2 bolts to 20 ft. lbs.
Advise on frame-rail clearance
There are several ways to accomplish this task. The first component to contact the frame rail is the rear balancing shaft gear. To test fit your combination, remove this gear assembly as well as the crank pulley before you level the engine in the chassis.
To run an alternator you will have to notch or box the frame-rail for clearance. You can also customize your pulley but it does not allow the use of the balancing shaft assembly or the lower timing belt cover. Here is how you do it.
Remove the balancing shaft gear on the crank stem and slide the crank pulley inward. The balancing shaft gear will then need to be turned (machined) down so it may fit inside the front of the crank pulley. It will now act as a spacer in front of the crank pulley.
You need to relocate the alternator over the thickness of the balancing shaft gear. This can be done by cutting and spacing the alternator housing, or by completely relocating the alternator bracket. Some choose to lower the alternator when doing so. Running a B or D series alternator will assist with the clearance as their belts have fewer ribs which require less room for travel.
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