blackeg

just drove my car today, its got a little vibration from the front end during acceleration, with it being worse when im on it good.

the steering wheel doesnt shake, i can feel it more through the gas pedal. anyhow, im thinking its either an axle or a bad wheel bearing. do those symptoms describe a bad front passengers wheel bearing?

B16b-EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just drove my car today, its got a little vibration from the front end during acceleration, with it being worse when im on it good.

the steering wheel doesnt shake, i can feel it more through the gas pedal. anyhow, im thinking its either an axle or a bad wheel bearing. do those symptoms describe a bad front passengers wheel bearing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

More so an axle...every time i have ever experienced vibration under acceleration it has been an axle. If you can pinpoint a side its coming from change that axle

blackeg

hmmm, one of my axles is brand new, one is old that im sure ill break at the track soon anyway...

racin_jayson

When was the last time you had an alignment?
I had a lot of toe in on both front wheels it was causing the same thing, alignment cured the problem.

blackeg

i was thinking i should get an alignment, but i have to raise my coils a whole lot to get up onto the machine i dont know if that will throw it off...


what are some symptoms of a bad front wheel bearing?? i replaced one of them but the other at least seemed to rotate o

trickeng

an alignment will not cure shaking during accelleration, nor will replacing your wheel bearings.

most likely your axles are either to long or to short. so, with the car at ride height (i.e. remove wheel and put jack under control arm) take the axles nut off and push the axle in as far as it will go. it should move at least 1/2" and the splines should not fall out the back of the hub.

B16b-EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm, one of my axles is brand new, one is old that im sure ill break at the track soon anyway...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was it brand new or remnufactured from Autozone or some other such place? I have seen at least 20 "remanutactured" axles bad fromthe get go...

Search vibration under acceleration in the archives there is plenty of good info

HATCHBACK GORILLA!

axels for sure..

sitinthehall

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HATCHBACK GORILLA! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">axels for sure..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shut up noob!

What are your mounts like? It's either mounts or axles.

A bad wheel bearing would make you notice a vibration all the time, not just under load. Also, I doubt it's an alignment because again, it would be bad all the time. (And you would notice irregular tire wear.)

GRANT!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sitinthehall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Shut up noob!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

post count and member enlistment dont = knowledge

i'll have to agree... sounds like axels... everyone i've know has had the same problem at least once.


sitinthehall... 17" motegis and clear ricer tails... i guess that makes you a ricer then doesnt it?

sitinthehall

A. They came with the car... just bought a set of mr5's

B. They're neither motegi's nor are those clear.

C. And I'm an ASE certified mechanic.

D. It was dry humor... I know that newbies can have more knowledge than usual.

1fast4g63

rotated your tires from front to back to eliminate an out of balance tire. If it cures the problem then you don't need an axle.....out of balance tire

blackeg

tires were fine on my previous car.


one axle is a brand new autozone (which i run in all my cars and have zero problems), the other is an old oem one.

mounts are hasports.

the reason i thought alignment is because i replaced the front upper control arms and knuckles

B16b-EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tires were fine on my previous car.


one axle is a brand new autozone (which i run in all my cars and have zero problems), the other is an old oem one.

mounts are hasports.

the reason i thought alignment is because i replaced the front upper control arms and knuckles</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can try the alignment...but in the end i think you will find it to be the axle, i could be wrong but everytime i or somone i know experiences vibration under acceleration has been a bad axle. I'm not knocking auto zone but i have gotten 4 bad axles in a row from them, thats why they come with a lifetime gurantee, just pull it and tae it back and get another one. It should be free where an alignment will be ~80 bucks

blackeg

yeah i hear you on the autozone axles being hit or miss. ive got a set in my other civic that i put about 50k miles on, 30k of which are well over 250hp and a good 30 times at the track, but autozone is still autozone.

JDMB20TDA

I know this is old, but there is no sense in making a new thread.
I have the same problem, took my car on a trip through some canyon roads nothing crazy ripped a few turns.

afterwards I have this horrible front end shimmy when I accelerate, nothing while braking or off the gas.
Checked; tierods, ball joints, wheel bearings.
Installed new axles, wheels, and tires.
The car has solid torque mounts and an aftermarket driver side mount for the Ls motor.

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

^^ where did you purchase your axles from? "new" axles have a tendency of being messed up whenever you buy them from autozone, or o'reillys or something.

If nothing else works for you i'd warranty them out again.

JDMB20TDA

well I had oem axles in it, with the problem and just today I replaced both axles and the problem didnt worsen or better.
I cant imagine a brand new autozone axle would be just as bad as a busted/out of balance Oem piece.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

They're not new though, they're remanufactured. There's not a lot that can be done to correct the general wear patterns on inside of the CV cups, which is why Driveshaftshop and Raxles machine new pieces. Remans just get new bearings on the tripod, new boots, and they're back out the door.

I HAVE the same problem and bought the stage 1 drivershaftshop axles, but just haven't had the time to put them in yet. If the weather's good, I may try to knock it out over the long weekend next weekend since I've got Friday off. Will definitely report back.....

JDMB20TDA

they sell remans and New. I bought the new ones.
either way, Im going to take them back and try another set.
cross the fingers and hope they are at fault.

JDMB20TDA

new axles. still got the vibrations, Im pointing towards rear engine mount.
Seems like if its not axles thats the most likely suspect. it seems like it has some wear when engaging gears and pulling off the line, I can feel some slop and it occasionally clunks a little when engaging lower gears.

what would cause vibrations when a mount wears? I just dont understand how an engine torquing can cause it to shake so violently.

But it makes sense, during my adventure through those canyon roads there was alot of rev-matching and higher rpm downshifts that could really beat up on a old mount.

jdm inc

iTrader: (11)

i had vibration on my car before even with a brand new axle bought from autozone......I went and exchanged out the axle and noo more vibration.

Scott_Tucker

Are you sure the engine's not misfiring? An engine mount is not likely to cause a vibration, it would normally cause a 'clunk' once you get on it.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure? I did a lot of research before i got my DSS axles, and as far as I know, Raxles is the only other company to machine new inner and outer CV's. How much were yours?

I agree with Scott Tucker that it could also be a misfire or bad compression on one cylinder. That's what I thought when mine first started too. Could also be one of the differential bearings as well. Check for excessive play where the inner CV goes into the tranny case on both sides.

JDMB20TDA

everything in the front end is tight, Im going on the engine mount theory then if need be, Ill be cracking open the case; in which I have a spare diff laying around.
compression on all cylinders is perfect and burns minimal oil like most boosted hondas.
Im not throwing any codes and it doesnt feel like a misfire to me, although it makes sense, underload its more likely to occur.
Ill take a closer look into it when I have some free time from work.

and how bad is your axle vibration, cause mine is pretty violent.
Till then any other ideas?